I have a simple problem. My subject's faces are extremely light. I have not fiddled with any of the settings. They all seem to be standard. I have been taking pictures for years (usually relying on the factory settings). What have I disturbed?
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Make sure your lens is clean and free of any smudges or debris.
Ensure that you are far enough away from your subject that the minimum focusing distance has been achieved
Most auto-focus systems use contrast to detect what needs to be sharp. If you are shooting something that is all the same color, the camera will probably not be able to focus.
Make sure there is plenty of light on the subject; even if to the naked eye it looks like there is light, the camera focus system will have a hard time detecting your subject if it is not extremely well lit.
This can be due to 1. Exposure compensation is set very high (may be set to +2, try setting it to 0) 2. ISO is too high (may be set to 800+, try setting it to auto or 200) 3. Using flash too close to subject (back up from subject or do not use flash)
Close up and macro photography require special lenses chances are you are to close for the lens to see what you are attempting to focus on. Another thing if you are hand holding the camera the chances are extremely good you can't hold it steady enough for the camera to lock on to the subject. When shooting macro the depth of field is extremely shallow to you need to stop down the lens to maybe F11 or even F22 so now you have a light problem. You didn't say how close the subject was to the front of the lens. So to get started on this close up photograph mount the camera to a tripod switch the lens to manual and slowly focus on your subject. There is a small green dot in the lower right corner of the viewfinder that will come on sold green when your subject is in focus. If it doesn't you are to close to the subject for the lens you are using.
Yes. You won't have the same macro focussing ability at all focal lengths.
But usually the important thing is that it's not how close the camera can focus, but how large the image is, so you'll often find that a longer focal length (i.e. not wide angle) will produce a larger image of the object even though the camera has to further away to achieve focus. This also results in less distortion as extreme close-ups in wide angle produce extreme perspective distortion. It's why a wide angle close up of a face results in an exaggerated nose and mouth.
You will need to read the manual. I f you have a basic
understanding of how ISO, shutterspeed & Aperture width
combine to determine the 'right exposure.
Set the camera to Av (aperture priority mode). Half press the shutter
button and see the light meter indicator to see how well exposed your
shot will be. For most cases you would be aiming for a value of 0
(properly exposed). The metering mode determines what part of the frame
is used to compute the correct amount of light. For starters begin with
pattern metering. Try and aim for a shutter speed of 1/125 or more if
you are using the 17-55 mm EF-S f3/5-f5.6. Try and shoot at 40 mm F/5.6
(in Av mode this can be set by rotating the dial near the shutter
All the best
(metering mode on first menu1) evaluative metering - standard setting, takes account off all areas of scene. Partial metering - effective when background is much brighter than the subject due to backlighting etc. Centre weighted average metering - the metering is weighted at the centre then averaged for entire scene. ------ pressing the right hand button of the two little ones top right corner of camera brings up display on lcd, using thumb wheel you can select where the metering takes place. in the viewfinder the display lights a red dot for areas selected.
Try these settings to see if this helps in your situation.
There are two stages to the shutter release. The first stage is the focus stage pressed half way down and the second stage is the actual shutter release. Always press the shutter half way to get the camera focused first then press all the way down when the camera is ready to take the shot. Check to see how the settings are with regard to how it focuses (9-point, face recognition, etc). When the camera focuses you should get a green box or multiple green boxes depending on your settings. That tells you the camera is ready to take the picture. Pressing the shutter all the way down at once from the beginning will cause the pause you describe since the camera has to first focus then shoot the picture. Depending on the subject or subjects the camera may take a second or two longer to focus. With good lighting my G9 focuses pretty fast. Hope this helped.
Hi Couple of things. 1.On the 'manual settings' the setting could be set to a very slow shutter speed. Which means the shutter will stay open londer to let in more light and close when the required light is taken in. You may notice this in Aperture priority as well as shutter and in low light even more so. You need to adjust the shutter speed, or aperture. You have not mentioned how the picture come out so it is a little harder to pin it down, but i suspect they are very washed out or very dark. If they are well exposed and sharp, you have no worries. You have the setting correct for the given subject and lighting.
2. You may have the timer set. Depending on your model of camera this may vary. The timer does not engage in full auto by default. The timer is normally shown on the scree as a little stopwatch like icon when engaged. A model number may help in narrowing down a solution shoul it not be the timer.
Hi richelle Turn the dial to (SCENE) Scroll to # 12 (SMILE) Press (OK) Center subjects face, Or the center subject in a group photo. Say Cheese, Click,Click,Click You got em A couple of help full hints here.
#1 You need good lighting, so the face/smile detection works. #2 Make sure you center the mouth in the on screen [brackets] #3 Helps if they have teeth :o
You have very good taste in cameras. Best regards and keep em smiling : ) Paul