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Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
LG Dishwasher Displaying Fault Code E1
LEAKAGE ERROR // Excessive pump motor RPM due to water leakage
The manufacturer has assigned this error or fault code to indicate that when the drain pump is running it is not experiencing the back pressure it expects. This is usually an indication that there is a water leak in the drain system. Check all hoses and connections. Check under the dishwasher for any major leak. If all checks out, be certain there is a proper loop in the drain hose to prevent siphoning. Finally, if the problem persists, the drain pump itself might be defective. LG Dishwasher Displaying Fault Code E1
? 2:40 www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qcwAyHI9ik Aug 24, 2012 - Uploaded by 62spindrift
My fix for E1 error on LF Dishwasher. ... Maytag Maxima steam Washer has F8 & E1 error code - Pressure sensor & no water detected ...
PD is not an error code. It shows that when it draining water out shortly after power-up and when shutting down. If it seems to be showing "PD" longer than usual, it means the dishwasher's control circuitry believes there is still water in the tank, due to a faulty water level probe, most like the one under the lift-out screen. It has a plastic body with a metal probe coming out the center.
There is also a dual probe at the rear of the machine, but I believe the dishwasher uses the front probe to determine when to stop draining the machine during "PD" - most likely meaning "Power Drain" or "Power Draining".
If you are not seeing any E- codes (E1, E2, E3, etc.) then these water level probes are likely just fine and the "PD" is appearing normally, as it should during draining conditions.
Does it show a wrench icon and P1?
error codes are p 1to 3 for probe errors, or E1 to 7 for error codes.
P1 is the probe on the wash tank. It's a thermistor with two black wires to a white connector. There is another on the booster front (P2) and a 3rd on the rear airgap, (p3). You could try exchanging 1 and 3 to see if the fault changes too. You have to drain the booster to swap P2. If it can't determine the wash tank temp, it won't know to control the heat and shows the error.
Hi. Sorry this is so late, but I just happened across this post, so I thought I'd see if you have solved your problem yet. The EI code most often is caused by water leaving the tub during the wash cycle. The most common cause of this is that the dishwasher drain hose does not have a high loop in it. Often, the installer ran the hose right down through the floor. It needs to loop up high before going to the drain to prevent water loss, and a resulting IE code.