Question about Whirlpool GS563LXSS - stainless Steel Gas Kitchen Range
Oven is not working on above noted gas range. Seems like there is not gas getting through. Electric part seems to work. Top of stove burners are working. Can we light the pilot?
We had those same symptoms with our range out of the box. It was a problem with the PC board and it was fixed under warranty.
Posted on May 28, 2008
Welcome to Fixya
You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.
What is the model number and the age of your range?
Waiting for your reply.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
Do not use the stove until its properly converted back to natural gas. It's a serious carbon monoxide hazard.
Most ppl throw the orifices away, sometimes they are stored under the stovetop in the back, or behind it. The original natural gas orifices are the only parts you need. All orifices are labeled by a tiny stamp on the side. It will state the size and type, example: 10 LP.....meaning number 10 size and propane.
A nature gas should be labeled something like 12 NG.
Call a local parts dealer or order online the NG orifices for you model number.
I assume you do not have the setup instrctions that come new with the unit. Heres what you need to do:
1) Change the orifies to NG (the bigger the burner the higher the size number) so if you have two #10 size, one #12 and one #14...then common sence will tell you where they go.
2) convert the regulator. This is the part to which the inlet connects. Remove the vent cap,(a plastic cap, you'll see it) unscrew and flip the insert over and reinsert it (You'll usually see 'NAT' on one side and 'LP' on the other). Reinstall the cap, and that's done. The word NAT should be facing you where you can read it.
3) Then, find the brass orifice that supplies the bake burner (usually under the range, behind the drawer), and if included, the broil burner (usually inside the oven). These are adjustable, and, like adjustable top burners, are simply 'snugged' down clockwise with a 1/2 inch wrench. You need to screw these back up for natural Gas.
You know when the oven is correct, you should get a nice blue flame on top as well as in the oven. Flames with yellow tips are wrong!
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Super Capacity 465
I have the same problem intermittently on my Super Cap 465. After reading the following quote from another site, "There have been cases where radio waves, electronic signals and sometimes something as strange as dimmers in lights have caused some weird problems with some computer panels in stoves like these", I tries turning off lights that might be on the same circuit and wouldn't you know it, the oven igniter circuit worked.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
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