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Focal length equivalents

My Fuji S602Z lens (not-detachable) says 7.8-46.8 mm (it also says 1:2.8-3.1, which is Greek to me). The range of 7.8-46.8 makes sense, since the camera is a 6x optical zoom, but what would be the equivalent of 7.8-46.8 mm in standard SLR lens?. I bought a Fuji 15x tele conversion lens that attaches to the camera lens on an adapter ring that says 55mm and got great photos of wildlife on an African trip 3 years ago -- better than people with Nikons. Now I want to go to a DSLR with more resolution and get a telephoto lens with an equivalent focal length. The question is: what focal length was I shooting at in Africa? Would a 75 mm 300 mm zoom be equivalent?

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Do you know the sensor size of your Fuji? When we say equivalent it means to be equivalent to a standard 35mm film camera or a full-frame size 35mm x 24mm digital camera. Most digital SLR use a smaller size sensor to reduce the cost and the size of the lenses. For example, a 24mm x 16 mm size sensor. Hence, the equivalent need to times a factor, for example, 1.5x for Nikon (because 36/24=1.5), 1.6x for Canon DSLR. A 18-105mm standard zoom lens on Nikon D90 will be equivalent to 27-158mm lens on standard 35 mm film camera or full-frame digital camera. Most point and shoot small cameras and super-zoom lens cameras (all with not-detachable lens) use a even smaller sensor which has a factor of 5x or 6x. So, you may need times 5x (to 7.8-46.8)
The 1:2.8-3.1 is the F number (aperture). It means at 7.8mm focal length, its biggest aperture is 2.8 which you will have a hole with diameter of 7.8/2.8=2.78mm; while at 46.8mm, its biggest aperture is 46.8/3.1=15mm. These two numbers: 2.8 and 3.1, the smaller the better which allow more light coming in for good low-light condition pictures.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}I believe it is equivalent to a 35 to 210mm lens on a 35mmcamera. If you are considering a Nikon such as the D60, D80, D90, etc.,the standard lens sold with the camera is 18-135mm. This is not the sameas an 18-135mm on a 35mm film camera. The equivalent 35mm film cameralens would be 27-202mm (you multiply by 1.5), about the same as what youhave now. If I were planning to do wildlife photography, I would buy a usedNikkor ED 70-300mm AF lens on E-bay. You should be able to get one for$200 or less (the new price is $550+). This lens is designed for a 35mmfilm camera and is the equivalent of a 105-450mm when used on a Nikon digital cameras. Additionally, it is compadable with the automatic features of the Nikon digital camera bodies. This would give you an excellent portrait lens at 105mm and extra long reachfor wildlife. The fast shutter speed and stabilization circuit on thedigital camera should make it usable in daylight without a tripod. I havethis lens on a Nikon film camera and it is a superior lens. At a 1/1000second or faster shutter speed, I get sharp hand held photos.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

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If you had a compact camera it would say 10x zoom what is the equivilent in a 70mm -300mm tamron


A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.

It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.

It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.

I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)

I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")

I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.

These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.

Bottom line...

Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.

Jul 10, 2012 | Tamron 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 LD Lens for...

1 Answer

Hello. Hope you can help. I have a CX 4 digital camera. I would like to know if there is a way to set this camera up so as to take picture with a much more narrow focal length. I am trying to compete my a...


I presume you mean the Ricoh CX4? if so, I'm puzzled by your question, in particular the term "narrow focal length". It's also difficult to answer without knowing which lens your friend is using to compare it against.

You have an available focal length range of 28-300mm (in 35mm film equivalent terms), so a full range from wide angle to super telephoto. Clearly, you don't mean "narrow focal length range". If you mean that you want a narrower angle of view then 300mm is pretty narrow to start with and you have a 10MP camera which gives you plenty of excess pixels to dump if you want to crop the images further with no discernible loss of quality. At 300mm equivalent though, you will always have some user-induced camera shake (movement blur) unless you use a tripod or similar and additionally a remote shutter release (or use self-timer), and the effects of movement blur will be increased when you crop the image. Image stabilisation (I.S.) helps, but is no substitute for good technique and I.S. is a battery *******. If you're after a wider angle of view, then your camera is simply incapable of it without adding additional screw on lenses, and they ALWAYS reduce sharpness, contrast and add distortions.

The lens on your camera is good but is not known to be especially sharp even at the centre where all lenses perform best, regardless of cost. But most users wouldn't be able to tell the difference unless they were given large print selective enlargements to compare with the same images from a better lens. Your lens is what it is: there is no way it can out-perform what it's designed to achieve and it will never match higher-priced, higher quality SLR lenses.

Another puzzling point in your question is the phrase "I would like to get my subjects in crisp focus but the surroundings are out". If you're trying to get the subject and surroundings in focus all at once, then use a smaller aperture and a longer exposure in conjunction with a longer focal length (look up aperture and depth of field). Longer exposures risk movement blur though. The words you use afterwards regarding a blur mask suggest the opposite though, that you want a sharp subject in relief against blurry surroundings. If so, use the widest possible aperture and the shortest acceptable focal length (depth of field varies with focal length), but with wide angles you increase image distortion due to exaggerated perspective. Your options are limited though as your lens is very much a compromise to keep size, weight and costs down. The widest possible aperture is a modest f/3.5 at the widest angle (shortest focal length) setting, and a very modest f/5.6 at the super-telephoto setting (longest focal length), although the aperture range is normal in comparison with most other similar compact camera models and with some basic "kit" zoom lenses supplied with cheaper SLRs..

Wider apertures than you have available are just not possible on your lens and there are no adaptors or anything else which will change that. Even if your lens absolutely matched the aperture range available to SLR users then you still wouldn't achieve the out of focus surroundings which I suspect you're after. That's because although your camera has an equivalent angle of view range to a 35mm film lens of 28-300mm, it has a much smaller image sensor so uses a real focal length range of 4.9mm to 52.5mm. As I said earlier, depth of field varies with focal length. The shorter the focal length, the larger the depth of field, and there's no way to avoid the physics of that.

You only have one fix for the problems you describe and that's to work creatively within the limitations of your camera. Note that I didn't say "spend four times more"; if you do that you have a more expensive, bulkier, camera, have to carry around more lenses, and are far less likely to use the equipment in adverse conditions as you won't want to risk ruining it or having it stolen. You also won't get some of the candid point and shoot images you can capture with a compact model, partially due to easier and quicker handling but also due to the fact that folks tend to notice and react when they see a dirty great SLR aimed at them.

Cameras and lenses are just tools for a job and you just pick the right ones for the task at hand. An "impressive" camera does not make anyone a better photographer. The cheapest and best way to improve your photos is to take as many as you can and study the image file EXIF data to see what the settings were for each image. Also, buy or borrow books and look at websites which explain photographic technique regarding aperture, focal length, shutter speeds, reciprocity, image noise, sensor sizes and megapixel counts. Joining a local club or even an online forum will also help. Learning more will help you understand why your assertion, "I know that is is possible" is completely incorrect and also will ensure that when you do eventually replace your camera that you buy wisely.

Sep 07, 2011 | Cameras

2 Answers

Hi, I have the finepix s9600 and was wondering if the zoom lense could be changed on it for a higher zoom?? if so what would you recommend


The S9600 camera is a fixed lens camera and the lens ca not be changed not like a DSLR with interchangeable lenses. Your camera has the equivalent of 28 to 300mm focal length which is pretty respectable. One thing you could do is purchase an adapter but the quality of your pictures will suffer. Going to a full DSLR with the focal length you have now wouldn't be to cheap either.

Dec 26, 2010 | Fuji Finepix S9600 Digital Camera

1 Answer

I want to know which lens in better the 70-200mm vr ii or the 70-300mm. please let me know


Both have 70 mm as the widest angle of view, and up to 200 mm as telephoto, while one goes 50% further to 300 mm telephoto range. This means you can zoom in on objects further away than with the 200 mm lens. This is called the focal length of the lens.

The 200 mm offers VR II (second generation of Vibration Reduction) technology, which will allow shooting without a tripod in darker situations than without this technology. This can be a very handy feature if you are in low light situations and don't like to carry a tripod around.

Besides the focal length, a big part of a lens's cost and desirability is how "fast" it is. A lens that has an opening of "f2" is said to be "twice as fast" as one that is "f4". Another way to think of it is that it can allow twice the amount of light into the camera in the same amount of time that an f4 lens can. This means you can shoot in 1/60 sec at f2 as opposed to 1/30 sec at f4 to get the same amount of light in the image. If you don't have a tripod, and you're shooting at 70mm, 1/60 sec is the slowest you can shoot to get a non-blurred image (don't shoot slower than the inverse of the focal length: 70mm = 1/70 sec or 1/60 sec and when zoomed in 200 mm = 1/200 sec - or 1/250 on your camera) The more inexpensive wide angle zooms are often f4.5 - f5.6 and can run several or more hundred dollars. The f2 lenses cost several times more than the f4 - f5 counterparts. This is where the VR technology comes into play. This feature "freezes" the image to allow for an exposure that would be too blurry or otherwise not viewable. You can read a quick article about the differences between VR and VR II for Nikon lenses here. There are others to read, too - so read more than one for more than one opinion.

Another variable, is the coatings. Multi-coated lenses are generally more expensive than single or non coated lenses. Each coating reduces unwanted effects of stray light, etc. that can cause flares on images, etc. You can read more about coatings here.

There are other variables, but those are the main points. You'll have to weigh the differences between the lenses, your intended use for them and cost.

I hope this provided a good starting point for you and good luck!

Nov 18, 2010 | Nikon D90 Digital Camera with 18-105mm...

1 Answer

Need to find lense


I think the most prudent solution is to give up on the idea. What do you need that for? This lens already has a huge range of 28 .. 300 mm in film equivalents, and it is marginally useful at 300 mm. Whatever else you put on it will make it worse (less light, poor focus and aberrations). Similarly, at the wide end, while it is technically possible to add a wide-angle element to shorten the focal distance to about 20 mm, that will also result in a loss of light and poor peripheral focus, so you will be much better off taking 2-3 pictures and blending them whenever you need a wider angle. This lens is a miracle of optimization -- it already has the attachments you are contemplating, plus macro and super-macro. I don't think its range can be expanded any further without an unacceptable degradation of quality.

Jul 03, 2008 | Fuji FinePix S9500 Zoom Digital Camera

1 Answer

I am looking at a 400/640mm preset lens,


Pre-set depending on the model, can be fixed aperture, and or fixed focal length. You have to read the spec sheet to know, or call the dealer.

I have a fixed 500 mm / F8 mirror lens. It is refered to as a fixed lens, because nothing is adjustable. I have aperture and filter drop-ins to do the equivalent of some adjustments.

Jerry G.

Apr 27, 2008 | Quantaray 500mm/1000mm Preset Telephoto...

2 Answers

Trouble focusing with sigma 70-300 DL macro super lens


It will not focus on anything closer than 5 feet.

(From Sigma lens literature)
Capable of macro photography, this lens has a 1:2 maximum close-up magnification at the 300 mm focal length. It's the ideal high performance lens for portraits, sports photography, nature photography, and other types of photography that frequently use the telephoto range. It also has a switch for changeover to macro photography at focal lengths between 200mm and 300mm with a maximum close-up magnification from 1:2.9 to 1:2. The minimum focusing distance is 1.5m / 59 in. at all zoom settings.

Dec 25, 2007 | Sigma AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 DL Macro Super...

1 Answer

What is the distance at Macro mode?


In wide-angle macro mode, the minimum focus range is as close as 30cm from CCD (21cm from the lens front.) At this point, the magnification is 0.03x (equivalent to 0.12x in 35mm format).(Focal length is 7.2mm. At maximum magnification 283mm x 213mm of the subject can be captured.) In telephoto macro mode, the minimum focus range is 25cm from CCD (13 cm from the lens front) and the magnification is 0.18x (equivalent to 0.7x in 35mm format). (Focal length is 42.7mm to 50.8mm. At maximum magnification 52mm x 39mm of the subject can be captured.)

Sep 15, 2005 | Konica Minolta DiMAGE A200 Digital Camera

1 Answer

What is the distance at Macro mode?


In wide-angle macro mode, the minimum focus range is as close as 30cm from CCD(21cm from the lens front.) At this point, the magnification is 0.03x (equivalent to 0.12x in 35mm format). (Focal length is7.2mm. At maximum magnification 283mmx213mm of the subject can be captured.) In telephoto macro mode, the minimum focus range is 25cm from CCD(13cm from the lens front )and the magnification is 0.177x (equivalent to 0.7x in 35mm format). (Focal length is42.7mm to 50.8mm. At maximum magnification 50mmx37mm of the subject can be captured.)

Sep 15, 2005 | Konica Minolta DiMAGE A1 Digital Camera

1 Answer

What is the distance range at macro-photography for the DiMAGE Z3?


Macro: Wideangle: 0.1m to 1.0m (from lens front) / Telephoto: 1.2m to 2.5m (from lens front) Wideangle: 0.185m to 1.085m (from CCD) / Telephoto: 1.285m to 2.585m (from CCD) Super Macro: 3cm to 100cm (from lens front), 9.5cm to 109.5cm (from CCD), focal length: 10.45 mm (equivalent to 63mm in 35mm format)

Sep 13, 2005 | Konica Minolta DiMAGE Z3 Digital Camera

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