Question about GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric Dryer

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GE Profile Harmony Dryer not heating

Repairman came out and replaced a coil thermostat - when he did the main board started making a burning smell and the repair said it now needed a new board that cost over $300.00 and by the time it gets fixed I will have over $550.00 in repairs.

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I had the same problem, make sure the problem is no with the electric cord itself. My repairman told me he has seen a problem with the wires that connect the cord to the board not being tight enough, they short out and literally can catch on fire. He fixed mine for free but told me that this problem can show up six years after you have your dryer. I've had mine for three. The board was fine.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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My fridge compressor stopped working. After checking the main control board I found a burnt transformer.I replaced it with a new board. It still did not work. So I checked the cooling coil and found a...


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Feb 17, 2011 | GE Refrigerators

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My daughter has a 3 1/2 year old dryer that just stopped heating up...any suggestions? and ballpark range of what it would cost to repair...thank-you


It will all depend on what is wrong to be able to judge the cost of the repair.
If your going to attempt repair or call a repairman.
Anyway I will give you some things to check
Please rate me
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Jan 01, 2011 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

We have a dryer that is 4 1/2 years old and the cloths are now taking a couple of hours to dry. I checked the lint fiter outside and is is not blocked and when the dryer is running the inside is not...


You should look to repair this problem, it will be cheaper than a new dryer...He is what I recommend you do to check your dryer...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

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1 Answer

My dishwasher won't drain. Repair man is telling me the motor's burned out. Does this sound right?


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Let him replace the motor and collect the old motor. that is the only way you can make sure. Hope the repairman has checked all the the other points. Before replacing the motor, find out the reasons for motor getting burnt! No water seepage into the coil, no high voltage in your area etc.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

I am going to paste part of your text and then reply:

Your text:

Repairman came back and replaced a small round part at the top of the evaporator (resistor??) <
{ That was the termostat}

I just read that the problem could be the defrost thermostat..

He already replaced it.

I hate to say it but is sounds like your in repairman hades.

So far I see 1. a new mother board, 2. new defrost thermostat and 3. new defrost heater element. (other than wiring that is everything in the circuit)

Either one of the 3 NEW parts is bad or...there is a partially broken wire in the circuit.

Hopefully this helps you understand. ( I know it does not fix your uint)

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

P.s your words again:

one would expect this to be remedied.
You got that right!

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