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Rough idle 2 cycle outboard

Rough idle at any engine speed up to full throttle. At full throtle engine runs smooth and is very strong and responsive. Below full throttle very rough, engine shakes but does not stsll out.

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Sounds like u need to do a tune up on it. clean the carb, new plug

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

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Onan performer p220 ohv will run fine then get very rough at high speed and idle. Has new fuel pump, all hoses are new and tight, and new fuel filter. Would appreciate ideas on what to check next


there should be 2 screw controls labeled "H" and "L"...these are the carb adjustments for low speed and high speed...you may need to adjust them to get the best possible response between low and high throttle performance...you only need to get it started and then slowly turn the "L" control until it idles smoothly..then move on to the "H" control and while going from low idle to high with the throttle trigger adjust it slowly until you get a good, smooth response from low to high

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Adjusting the idle jets on a homelite super 2


'L' is the idle jet screw and 'H' is the full throttle screw. Make sure the air cleaner is not clogged. Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn H CW until the engine starts to speed up, but still 4 stroking. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L CW for fairly smooth running, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine keeps running. Hope this helps!

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I have a 1990 90 HP mercury outboard. It is rough idling and surg


I have a 90 hp force ob. when i run it with the ears she runs fine lets me bring the throttle all the way up. when i but it in the water thru the wake area i can do 4 mph once i'am out of the wake area and give it the gas she dies, any ideas

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Chain saw will idle, but not run at full throtle


First, check the air filter and clean it well. Then make sure the spark plug is clean and gapped properly.

Then prime, start it up, and allow it to idle, even using the trigger to make it fast idle if you can. Using a small thin screwdiver, turn the high speed idle screw on the carb in small increments to the right, kepping the speed up on the trhrottle.

The idea is to screw it out until it sputters, then screw it a half turn back in. If it doesn't smooth out when turning it to the right, try going to the left.

Afterwards you may find it doesn't run at low throttle well. If not, try the same thing starting to turn left until it smooths out. If it doesn't, screw to the right. Again, the idea is to go until it sounds rough, then back off a half turn.

You should be able to adjust it to the point where you can open the throttle all the way with smooth sure throttle increase.

Nov 05, 2009 | Poulan Wild Thing 2375 18" Gas Chain Saw...

1 Answer

I have two screw settings on my echo hedge trimmer on the carb for the mixture, at the moment it does go but does not idle and feels as if starved of fuel when reving up,a bit tricky to start when warm.


On an otherwise healthy machine, the carb tuning procedure goes like this:

1) With the engine off, turn both mixture screws clockwise until they lightly "seat". Then turn them back counter clockwise two (2) full turns each.

2) Turn idle screw CCW and observe the throttle shaft movement. When it stops moving, the throttle plate is completely closed. From here, turn idle screw back clockwise two (2) full turns.

These initial settings should be sufficient to get a healthy machine to start up and stay running for the carb-tune procedure.

START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW ONE MINUTE TO WARMUP.

3) Turn the mixture screw closest to the engine (marked "L" ) clockwise in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) until the engine smooths out. Then back CCW until you have a slightly rough idle.

4) Accellerate to full throttle and turn the mixture screw closest to the air filter (marked "H" ) clockwise until the engine revs get higher and eventually begin to fall off again. Turn back CCW beyond ultimate top speed . . . until a very slight flutter is heard at top speed.

5) Release the trigger and adjust base idle speed until the blades barely crawl, then lower it one more touch.

6) Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 once more and then check throttle response on quick rev-ups. VERY VERY small adjustments to the "L" screw in a CCW direction will give better response but larger adjustments will affect "H" settings.
That's it.

Special note for step 5: When you make the FINAL base idle adjustment, set it as high as possible without allowing the blades to move. This facilitates easier starts when warm.

Hope this helps,
Dolf-

Oct 14, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

I get it started it runs as long as you have it wide open but you let of the gas it dies


This might require adjustment of the hi speed carb screw, the lo speed, and the idling screw as well.
The engine needs to be good and warm, you need to be certain you have a fresh fuel mixture in the tank, and you should check the air filter because it too affects the way the saw will run at low speed and idle.

I would start with the hi speed adjustment screw since wi does start. Fire it up and run it a bit to make sure you have it warmed up.

You may need someone else to help you hold the saw while you make these adjustments. With the throttle wide open, turn the hi speed screw slowly, in increments of 1/4 turn, to the left. It may be just a bit off. The objective here is to turn one way until it sputters or runs a little rough. Then turn it the other way until the engine smooths out. Continue to turn in the same direction until it again runs rough. Then turn back about halfway between those two points.

It should run well at wide open throttle. Place your screwdriver in the low speed adjustment screw and turn to the left, in small 1/4 increments like you did before. The objective here is to adjust to the point where the saw will throttle up quickly and smoothly, and more and more from an idling position, or as close as you can get.

If you find you don't get that, and the ramp up is choppy and unsmooth, adjust in the other direction. Eventually you should get to a point where you have quick response to your throttle. You should get to a point where it runs without being wide open.

If it fires up easily and throttles up smoothly but won't idle, the you need to adjust the idling screw. Adjust it until the chain begins to move on the bar when you let the throttle go. Once you get to the point where it idles with the chain moving, back off the adjustment until the chain just stops moving.

Make sure the air cleaner is clean. You may have to clean the carb with spray carb cleaner while it is running at full throttle. If you do, spray a tiny bit at a time, as it will almost kill the engine.

Finally, after all this work, invest in a new spark plug, even if the one in it isn't that old.

Sirwriter

Jun 15, 2009 | Garden

3 Answers

40hp 1987 yamaha outboard motor will run for 30-60


Sound like the fuel pump is not keeping up with the engine's demand. Check it out. Good luck. Hope this helps.

Apr 27, 2009 | Boating

1 Answer

ROugh idle


there are 2 things that usually cause this, one is a dirty intake idle control valve and the other is hard engine mounts, I would say that both most likely apply to your car. try cleaning the intake with the following procedure from Ford.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Feb 18, 2009 | 1994 Ford Probe

1 Answer

Rough idle


Have you had the throttle valve cleaned?

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Oct 20, 2008 | 2001 Mercury Sable

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