Question about Samsung HL-P6163W 61" TV

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Check fan number 2

Tv is working but there is a red banner at the bottom have of the screen. It reads check#2 fan. I have removed the back cover of the tv and with a visiual inspection checked for loose connections on the fans. I also carefully got rid of any dust build up. I have also tried unplugging and leaving it off for a few days. Any advice??????? Thanks

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Greetings from belize let me start by saying that these modern computerize sets always have pop up error some times the microchip act up probably your eepromor microchip needs to be reset or replace, take it to a tech for a check up.NB,be care full opening up the back of a tv touching components, a tv store very high voltage that can be very letal.leave the set to a qualified tech.this job could cost about $100.00 good luck.

Posted on Mar 21, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

Samsung HL-S5087W (" CHECK FAN # 1") is displayed


hello Harley,
Lamp # 1 is lamp fan, Lamp # 2 is DMD board fan.
Lamp # 1 is located behind the lamp.
Pull assy angine out you will fine fan # 2 , clean it or replace it if not rotate properly.
Fans displayed on screen because fans are dirty or air flow not smoothly.
Good luck.
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Mar 30, 2011 | Samsung HL-S5087W DLP TV

2 Answers

Fisher Paykel Fridge. Access to fridge fan.


My fridge is 11 years old and recently had the same problem; the freezer was cooling well, but the fridge compartment was not cooling enough. I searched the Web a read most answers. I thought the fan was faulty, but in fact it wasn't (the fridge has got 2 fans, one for each compartment, and they look very similar, the part number on mine was 883340). The whole problem was a build-up of ice in the condenser unit that is at the back of the freezer compartment. What happens is that the ice blocks the passage of air the fan for the fridge compartment. This of course stops the cool air circulating to the fridge compartment. I was able to repair the fridge an it is now working perfectly. This is what I did:
1) Removed everything from the fridge, food, shelves, the lot.
2) I made sure the fan for the fridge compartment was okay, by connecting it to a 9V battery; the fan was okay. (I did this because after reading the posts I was convinced the problem was a dead fan, but you can skip this step if you can hear the fan spinning and think it is okay). To check the fan, remove by pulling the toll plastic cover that fits below the smaller plastic cover with the temperature indicator. This cover is very flexible and flimsy, start pulling from near the bottom and continue along the right side, flexing it as you go along, until it comes free (there is an insulating plastic foam moulding underneath that comes with it). As soon as you remove this cover, you will see the small fan and the plugs. Unplug the fan's connector (it has a small lock you need to press) and wire it to a standard 9 volt battery. CAUTION: observe polarity! The battery positive terminal MUST be connected to the RED wire (or the fan burns!). If the fan is bad, you can remove it very easily by inserting 2 finger inside the white plastic holder, pushing the fan in (the fan is held with 3 very elastic thin silicon bands, that do not break) ,hooking the holder from the inside edge with your fingers and pulling. It will just come out through the slot. (I did this, but then had some problem in getting it back in place. I finally left it in a near flat position, but not quite as flat as it was. Nevertheless it works okay).
3) My fan was good (I wasted a lot of time doing this), so next I shifted my attention to the freezer compartment. I then noticed that the plastic cover at the bottom of the compartment was half dislodged from its proper location, all covered on ice. I removed the cover, breaking the ice that held it with care. This cover is difficult to remove, there is a lot of pushing and pulling, so be prepared and patient; do not break it (mine came out with a small locking leg broken, but it did go back in place without any problems). I then checked the second fan, that is on this cover; it was also okay.
4) As soon as I removed the cover I saw the problem...ice everywhere! I reached for the house hair drier and after about one hour it was all gone. Note that most of the problem ice is behind the condenser (small radiator looking aluminum frame, that should be left alone. Do not move, push or twist it).
5) once all the ice was removed, I the carefully pushed the radiator back in place at the bottom of the compartment (it just fits and had been displaced by the growth of ice), and replaced the plastic cover.
6) and voila! my fridge was again working perfectly. About 3 hours flat.

Jan 05, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B...

2 Answers

I have a philips HD rear projection TV 60 in. inside there are six adjustment knobs. Three are color the other three are for brightness contrast and hue. Which is which Left to right


If yours is a rear projection TV the adjustment knobs on the focus block inside are screen (red, green, blue) and focus (red, green, blue). The ones you are referring to as color are the screen controls and they adjust the intensity of the color from each tube. The other set adjust the focus of each color. They are also not intended to be adjusted by the user. Unless major components have been changed these controls should not need adjustment. That is why they are inside the TV.

Dec 05, 2009 | Philips 60PP9352 60" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

6 blinks of the red power light


The 6 red blinks means that the thermal fuse is blown, sony part number 191002393, which can be bought off of Sony.com for about $5. You will have to remove the back cover, remove the OU bracket (It is silver with 3 ground wires connected to it), remove the fan bracket with fan and then the duct fan bracket (Plastic fan duct housing). Looking between where the fan was and the lamp on the front of the TV, there is a small silver metal disk with 2 wires connected to it, which is the thermal fuse. Using an Ohm meter, you can test it. If it reads open, it is bad. Of course, you must unplug the TV first and use caution. It is a very easy fix for someone who is handy. (Approx 10 minutes)

Mar 15, 2009 | Sony KDF-E55A20 55 in. LCD Television

1 Answer

Shadow images and scrolling banner curves upward and back down.


Your TV most likely has one or more possible problems.

Problem #1: Convergence Chip Failure ( common problem )

Here are some of the most common symptoms and example photos of a convergence problem
  • Screen looks 3D
  • Colors don't line up
  • One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
  • Screen is bowed or warped.
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Here is a quick test....

Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence section.

Try to adjust the red and then the blue convergence.



You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.

If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.

2c07611.pngSolution #1

You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors. Check the site www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kits for most models. If you don't see a kit for your set send them a quick note and they will put one together for you. Their kits include a photo instruction guide, original OEM Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, etc.


Problem #2 CRT Fluid is Cloudy

Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.

Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.

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TV set after fluid change

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2c07611.pngSolution #2


What you will need to do is replace the coolant and clean the crt. You can get a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com that includes replacement coolant, photos. instructions, etc.

Mar 15, 2009 | Panasonic PT-53TW53 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Check Speaker banner keeps coming on


If you have a ohm meter plug it into the back of the speaker it should read about 5.5 ohms

Nov 30, 2008 | RCA RT2500 System

1 Answer

I have a Mitsubishi WD-62525. This morning my TV would not turn on so I pressed the rest button. After the Timer light stopped blinking I pressed power. I could hear the fans start than a somewhat loud...


the status light blinking red means a fan (the unit hs 4 of them) has failed. you need to determine which one. use the self diagnostic function:
Error Code Operational Check
Note:
The TV must be in “Shut Down” and not manually switched Off, to perform the Error Code Operational
Check. When the TV is switched Off, the code automatically resets to “12” No Error.
Press the front panel “DEVICE” and “MENU” buttons at the same time, and hold for 5 seconds to
activate the Error Code Operational Check. The LED will then flash denoting a two digit Code.
Note: The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the Remote Control.
• The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.
• The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.
• The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.
Example: If the Error Code is “32”, the LED will flash three times, pause, and then flash two times.
• The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times.


and read the code.
35= Chassis Fan failure
36 =Exhaust (Back Cover) or Lamp Ballast Fan failure
37= Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure

Nov 15, 2008 | Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection...

3 Answers

Picture then fades to blue.


Please post me on this as well. My Sony just turned 4 yrs this Jan and just last week it started having the same problem. -Thanks!

Mar 02, 2007 | Sony KP-65WS500 65" Rear Projection...

3 Answers

Banner on the screen


Find an antivirus software for your PDA and then install and run it.if this doesnt work, look carefully at your process manager for anything out of the ordinary.

Sep 15, 2005 | Palm Tungsten E Handheld

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