Question about Dryers
We have a Kenmore electric dryer (63952) & when it stopped heating (but still tumbling) in January we had a repairman out to fix it. He replaced the thermal cut-off & Fuse. He explained that due to lack of air circulation (our hose was clogged with lint) this burnt out & to keep everything cleaned out so it wouldn't happen again. Well - it burnt out 11 months later & the hose, lint trap, etc. were all clean (we were VERY thorough). So we decided to fix it ourselves - through the help of this website. we determined it was the thermal cut-off & replaced that part. it was working great for 2 loads & not it's not heating again. what else would be causing this part to be burning out?
SOURCE: Thermal Fuse
First of all stop replacing the fuses and using the dryer it could burn down your house. The problem is the vent is clogged (not necessarily in the dryer) make sure also that the vent flex is not excessively long behind the dryer and is not kinked when the dryer is pushed back.
Posted on Nov 19, 2007
SOURCE: thermal fuse keeps blowing
Unless there is something restricting the ventilation I think you are having a problem with the heating coil staying on too long. If that is the case, one or more heating sensors are bad. Let me know if this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Hello there :
There are severaol things that could cause this to happen
Things to check are : - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
I know that you have checked the thermal fuse so you dont have to worry about this.ok
Hope thatthis is very helpful
Best regards Michael
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
It is good that you have the part numbers of the thermostats. However, we have to use the make and model number to help you. If your dryer is repeatedly getting hot in a GENERIC response here are the things to check, (I know you have checked most of these)
I test thermostats with an Ohio Stick match.. the either click open and closed or don't work at all.
Heat click = open cooling click = closed. except the cycle 3 terminal thermostat. There is a NO, NC and C. It will measure between 2 terminals HOT using C as the common and 2 terminals Cold using C as the common. It will never read to C, NO and NC at the same time.
As you know thermal Fuses / links are a one time failure... they either work or they are open.
One thing to note... if you recently switched from a 3 wire power cord to a 4 wire power cord there is a good possibility that the 4 wire cord is incorrectly corrected. If it is incorrectly connected it is possible for the regular cycle thermostats to be bypassed and the heating element to always be on (no temp control) with the motor running until the thermal fuse / link fails.
From the sounds of things I really believe you still have an air-flow problem but using the info above you should be able to sort this out.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Feb 19, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
May 26, 2012 | Kenmore Dryers
Aug 09, 2011 | Kenmore 67841 Electric Dryer
Mar 25, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers
Mar 25, 2011 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer
Dec 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers
Aug 24, 2009 | Kenmore 62882 Electric Dryer
Jul 08, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers
Jul 08, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer
Oct 26, 2008 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer
Aug 25, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer
221 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!