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Thermal cut-off keeps burning out

We have a Kenmore electric dryer (63952) & when it stopped heating (but still tumbling) in January we had a repairman out to fix it. He replaced the thermal cut-off & Fuse. He explained that due to lack of air circulation (our hose was clogged with lint) this burnt out & to keep everything cleaned out so it wouldn't happen again. Well - it burnt out 11 months later & the hose, lint trap, etc. were all clean (we were VERY thorough). So we decided to fix it ourselves - through the help of this website. we determined it was the thermal cut-off & replaced that part. it was working great for 2 loads & not it's not heating again. what else would be causing this part to be burning out?

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  • Gwyn Nov 17, 2008

    sorry - Thermal cut-off & Thermostat were replaced (the thing that comes in a set) - i keep getting confused with the names but knew that the Thermal Cut-off is the one that is always measuring wrong with the ohm-meter. -thanks!

  • wesgarner Mar 28, 2010

    I am having the same problem with my series 90 kenmore electric dryer. The thermal cut-off switch keeps burning out.

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6 Suggested Answers

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: Thermal Fuse

First of all stop replacing the fuses and using the dryer it could burn down your house. The problem is the vent is clogged (not necessarily in the dryer) make sure also that the vent flex is not excessively long behind the dryer and is not kinked when the dryer is pushed back.

Posted on Nov 19, 2007

ronpar
  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: No Heat - Kenmore Series 90 electric dryer

check cord conections and timer contacts (big wires)

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: thermal fuse keeps blowing

Good Afternoon,
Unless there is something restricting the ventilation I think you are having a problem with the heating coil staying on too long. If that is the case, one or more heating sensors are bad. Let me know if this helps and thank you for using FixYa!

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

tbirdfan1
  • 3051 Answers

SOURCE: My dryer runs but has no heat. I have replaced the

Hello there :
There are severaol things that could cause this to happen
Things to check are :
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
I know that you have checked the thermal fuse so you dont have to worry about this.ok

Hope thatthis is very helpful

Best regards Michael


Posted on Dec 23, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: My dryer is getting too hot and keeps blowing the

It is good that you have the part numbers of the thermostats. However, we have to use the make and model number to help you. If your dryer is repeatedly getting hot in a GENERIC response here are the things to check, (I know you have checked most of these)

  • Remove the lint filter and wash it with vinegar and water then soap and water. Dryer sheets / fabric softener sheets over time do a bang up job of blocking the lint filter screen even though it looks perfectly clean. (#2 spot for blocked air flow)
  • Take a flash light and inspect the receptacle area of the lint filter. Don't be afraid to use a folded wire coat hanger to loosen any lint.
  • Remove the rear duct from the dryer and use the flashlight to look deep into the dryer ducting from the rear. Clean as necessary... that folded wire coat hanger is handy here too.
  • Go outside the house and inspect the vent flapper on both sides of the metal or plastic flapper. (This is the #1 spot that lint collects and blocks air flow.)
  • Check the airflow with the dryer on and the vent duct disconnected at the rear of the dryer. It should push a relaxed hand gently away from the duct outlet. If you do NOT get good air flow here then the BLOWER WHEEL hub is probably broken allowing the blower wheel to caster / spin vs drive on the motor shaft.
As far as the thermostat that can cause the thermal fuse / link to fail it would be the High limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat has to be stuck CLOSED for the thermal fuse to repeatedly fail. High limit thermostats are usually 180 F or 210 F thermostats. Thermal Fuses fail at 265 - 305 deg depending on model and area of installation in the cabinet.

I test thermostats with an Ohio Stick match.. the either click open and closed or don't work at all.
Heat click = open cooling click = closed. except the cycle 3 terminal thermostat. There is a NO, NC and C. It will measure between 2 terminals HOT using C as the common and 2 terminals Cold using C as the common. It will never read to C, NO and NC at the same time.

As you know thermal Fuses / links are a one time failure... they either work or they are open.

One thing to note... if you recently switched from a 3 wire power cord to a 4 wire power cord there is a good possibility that the 4 wire cord is incorrectly corrected. If it is incorrectly connected it is possible for the regular cycle thermostats to be bypassed and the heating element to always be on (no temp control) with the motor running until the thermal fuse / link fails.

From the sounds of things I really believe you still have an air-flow problem but using the info above you should be able to sort this out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly


Posted on Feb 19, 2011

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Power from the house:
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element:
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse:
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring : A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

thanks and keep updated.

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Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Hope this may help;

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VOTIT

DON'T FORGET TO RATE;

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