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GE MicroWave JES1136WL01 died while defrosting.

While  defrosting some frozen rolls for 33 seconds, the machine "went dead" after a few seconds, perhaps less than 15. previous  to this, the display indicated a power failure. I reset the clock & thought nothing more of it until the machine became unresponsive, no lights in the display or any thing.  I checked the breaker panel, found no problem, other appliances plugged into the outlet worked ok. switched outlets, no improvement. I can not find a "reset" button.  Any repair suggestions, diagnosis, comments?
Thanks for  your expertise.
 CE

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  • whoisjgalt Jan 15, 2009

    Yes, mine also died (though not while defrosting.) It just suddenly didn't come on. I messed with it, and eventually it came back on. Then later it died again. I figured out that slamming the microwave door jiggled something somehow and the LED screen would light back up and everything would work. But then it would go off again. Eventually it just stopped coming on no matter how much I slammed the door!

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Mine has the same problems. After removing top cover, check fuse on power supply board (mine was OK). Then check thermo fuse located to the far left under the top cover( 2 black wires going to it) using a meter. I then jumped this fuse to see if this was the only problem. I hope to find a replacement thermofuse at the local hardware store.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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Micowave goes on for few seconds then blows fuse. replaced magnetron tube and still does same thing


If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
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You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

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In my 20 years of working on microwaves, I have never seen a capacitor fail in any way but a dead short, but it's possible that it's failure may occur in a less abrupt manner. The internal structure of a capacitor is essentially a rolled up sandwich consisting of two thin layers of foil separated by a very thin insulator. While a "perfect" capacitor consumes no power, in the real world, things can happen to change that. A defect could increase the capacitve reactance or other internal resistance and allow internal heat buildup or expansion, which could lead to an intermittent short when it's warmed up a bit. After a while, the short could become permanent - sort of like arc welding, if you're familiar with that. So, while it's quite possible that this is the pathology that lead to a fully shorted capacitor, I think that's what you have, no matter how it happened.

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