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Re: starts welding good then doesent
Check the gas flow, set around 15-20lts/min, check that gas is coming out of the nozzle by using an add on flow meter to the nozzle if there is a difference then you have a leak in the line and will be drawing air into the gas stream which will cause the holes,
using a gas flow that high will also cause porosity. gas should be
argon/oxy or argonC02 mix 2% or 20%
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do you have body tools ? cut off wheel die grinder ? small cutoff wheels ? a spot weld cutter drill bit a drill ? a mig welder hammers sheet metal screw and drill bit 1/8"..? a pro will grind all the spot welds out with these mini cutoff wheels it mite be possible to grind through the spot welds around the wheel wheel well area or cut the spot welds with a spotweld cutter drill bit (air drill helpfull) dont grind a hole all the way through the inner support sheet metal when cutting/grinding out spot welds .Once all the welds are grinded or cut out around wheel well then threre is an area behind the bumper (remove it) cut the welds there or a cheat might just cut throgh the sheetmetal behind the bumper okay?. lok at the panel you are installing it is just like what you will be taking off okay ? if you are to weld the pillar high or lower pillar you decide make a measurement leave at least 4 inches tooverlap the new panel to the top ofthe car piller the hatch or trunk area take the rubberseal off the body take th inner panel loose and out put aside .okay ?it may be nessesary to cut the rear rocker panel near the door opening (look at new panel) measure and cut with cutoff wheel just through the panel dont cut deep cut the bottom aarea between the door opening and wheel well area at edge only the top layer door cut all the way into any lower metal sandwiched to the outer panel okay ? the door opening is where you will cut the remaining welds as to dislocate the panel entirely (dont grind through the under metal just the top sheet at welds )okay ?After this you should pry any reamaining parts of the old panel dont bend the pillar when prying panel off look behind the panel any glue ? body rubber cut with knike or putty scrapper" if theres any crosse welds you will have t cut the panel some more leave any truck floor metal alone you will need to hook back to this area . Once all the old panel is cut sometime in 2 or 3 peices you will began to try fit the new panel if the quarter is to be welded into the door opening area it is criticle to postion it perfectly first when you are ready to weld the new panel fasten it in place with sheet metal screws or rivets .Asuming you are a good mig welder you will begin at the top on the piller taking several places about 4 inches apart alow time for panel to col of wip it with a wet cloth to speed cooling .Watch the shape is it deforming bad if so you welding to close together but finish the top weld on the planel first until you have tack weld about 2 inches apart after wards look at the door area is it still centered where you can weld it ? if so good if not well not good . The next area wil be the door inseam tack weld at the top do bout 6 inches of this area then stop look at the hatch/trunck ara is it claped or screwed together ?(you should have drilled little 3/16" holes just where the old weld was dun it is through these holes in the new panel you will weld the new tack welds that attache the new panel to the body under support (structure) if no hole you will make holes before you attach the panel in place understand?)after welding the hatch truck area about half the way go back and finish the door area which is claped and screewed temporarily together last you will weld the wheel and then finally the area behind the bumper and if your welding the bottom to the eld under side the panel as some beginners will use screws on this under area because its the hardest to weld . when the whole area is tacked go back to the piller and weld it solid across and into the hatch or glass ,Speaking of glass they should be removed as wel will damage them the whole top of the car and any glase should be covered with fiberglass weld blanket if yu dont have one get a big cardboard refrigrator box and tape it to car top windowes where weld splatterso beware will burn spots on surface making a lot of damage . Grinde the weld down with die grinder and rotary abrasive wheel or stone . When the weld has been smoother with grinder it will be time to sand nearby pained area subjacent to (next too) areas with 80 grit sandpaper". After that a layer of body filler (bondo) is applied to the areas of the joint/s at the roof piller" and at the rocker panel joints use less hardener on the first coat as you will be doing 2 or three coats building up the layers and extending about 5 inches onto the top of the piller and maybe say 10 inches onto the bottom of the new panel okay when body is hard sand it untill it is smooth filling any low areas and re-sand after bondo filler use 220 grit then 325 grit then 400 grit prime filler and panel with grey primer and tape car sand primer with 500 grit wet and dri and wash paint then paint with same auto paint(color) over lap and polish paint .Reinstall any lights bumper cover and weather strip use come caulk or weld seam sealer to seal any cracks between the metal at the door or hatch /trunk area before painting .Reinstall any glass removed, take tape off add sound deadner" if necessary? reinstall inner panels ect. thats it "your done" clean up your car
This could be a problem of gthe gas you are using. Make sure to use mix 75/25 argon/CO2 for mild steel welding, argon 100% for aluminum and trimix helium/argon/CO2 for stainless steel.
Also check your heat (voltage) 16-22 is enough for weld of most steels less than 1/2 inch.
Place the large, round base on the floor. The outwardly curving edge should be facing downward.
Attach the three pedestals to
the base. To do so, insert your finger into each pedestal and loop the
spring within around the hook found on the base in the appropriate
holes. Insert the three plastic tabs on each pedestal into the base,
locking them into place.
Press the wider end of a lower
leg assembly onto each pedestal piece. By wiggling the lower leg
assembly side to side, you will eventually snap the pieces into place.
Hold the seat ring in your lap with the open edge facing upward. Press each of the six wheels into the wheel holders around the edge of the seat ring. Each wheel will snap into place when positioned correctly.
Insert the cloth seat into the
seat ring, aligning the diamond on the cloth seat with the triangle on
the seat ring. Each plastic tab lining the edge of the cloth seat
attaches to a peg on the seat ring. Snap these connections into place.
Hold the Exersaucer tray on its
side and press the seat ring into the center. Once the seat ring snaps
into place, it should be able to spin in place.
Attach the three spring caps to
the Exersaucer tray. These spring caps cover the three large holes in
your tray, and are attached by a firm clockwise twist.
Attach the upper leg assemblies
to the upper leg crowns. These crowns act as the "socket" and the upper
leg assemblies act as the "ball." By pressing them together with a
click, the upper leg assemblies can twist and rotate in place.
Turn the tray upside down and
press each upper leg crown base into the round holes in the tray with a
firm twist. Each upper leg crown features a height adjustment hole,
which will face outward when properly attached.
Turn over the tray so that the
upper leg assemblies are facing downward. Insert each upper leg assembly
into a lower leg assembly, being sure to pull away the height
adjustment tab to allow the assemblies to slide together.
Press each toy into its
respective port on the surface of the tray. The toys each have a
distinct base, which clicks into the correspondingly shaped tray port
If the motor is using a single phase supply there will be a capacitor which could have reduced in value- open.
If so try and use a capacitor in parallel to see if the motor works-- in this case the motor might hum and get heated up.
There are two ways to get in there. The easiest way is to drill a three inch hole in the inner liner, about six inches from the bottom and about five inches to the right of center (looking from inside the cabin) You can then reach inside and pull the release rod by hand (most fall off). Once it's open, remove the latch assembly and clean it and spray it down with a good solvent like wd40, working the mechanism 'till it's free. If the rod did fall off, generally you can re-attach it and work a glob of JB weld or other putty type glue into the clip. That generally will keep it in place. You can make an access cover for the liner or get another replacement (inexpensive) at any scrapyard. The other method requires precision drilling and a bit of maneuvering to get done correctly. If you want to try that instead, just ask. (you don't need to drill the large hole but getting the lock out may drive you crazy)
Make your own tool using the old pads or 2 pieces of 10mm flat bar.
Drill a hole in one of them(Drilling old pads is difficult - Theyre
extremely hard). Flatbar is easier to drill. Weld a nut over the hole
so that a bolt(should be about 80mm 2-3 inches) screwed into the nut
will pass through the hole. Use as per diagram. Unscrewing the bolt will
pry the caliper open. (Be sure to open the brake fluid reservoir.)
Making this will take you 10 minutes and cost next to nothing.
Dont go forcing the calipers with a screwdriver, wrenches, crowbars or
other manner of strongarm tactics. :-p. It will damage the piston
and/the caliper guide pins
You should NOT weld. braze or otherwise join, or "fix" an hydraulic lines, they, ideally, must be run as a single length again, any Join will simply fracture... Also if they are developing "Pin Holes" this is probably due to the material breaking down, and like a "Cancer" it will simply spread, and fail at a probable inappropriate time, not as though there are any good times? As an aside there are "Joiner" kit available for hydraulic lines, perhaps, cutting and rejoining like this may be acceptable? but still i wouldn't risk it, run new ones.
Boy I would be livid if it were my saw. I had a similar problem with a very old marine engine I resrored. A casting was damaged and not avalabled so I went to a machine shop who sent it or to be welded and than the shop tooled it. You can give it a try if you can't find the part. Good luck.
Choose the electrode to use for the project you are starting as well as the variety of alloys you'll use such as the 6061 Aluminum alloy electrode. Grind the electrode to a point. Try to create a tip and sharpen it to help it become more rounded as you weld. Place the electrode into an electrode holder with the tip about 1/4-inch away from the sheath. Choose the settings on your tig welder. The three main ones are AC, DCEP and DCEN. Choose AC for aluminum. Slide the "cleaning/penetrating" slider more to the penetrating side. Set the "air on" to five seconds and the "max amps" to 250. Turn on the gas. For aluminum, use pure argon. For steel, an argon and carbon dioxide mix. Scrub your welding table or flat piece of sheet metal with a wire brush to make it clean and flat. Gear up in full welding safety gear including hood, goggles, apron and gloves. Hold the electrode in your dominant hand and start your welding project. Check your settings every so often to make sure they haven't changed and adjust as needed.