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Re: starts welding good then doesent
Check the gas flow, set around 15-20lts/min, check that gas is coming out of the nozzle by using an add on flow meter to the nozzle if there is a difference then you have a leak in the line and will be drawing air into the gas stream which will cause the holes,
using a gas flow that high will also cause porosity. gas should be
argon/oxy or argonC02 mix 2% or 20%
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Install or place the wheel into position between the forks with the valve stem on the right side of the vehicle. THEN coat the axle with bearing grease. THEN while supporting the wheel, insert the threaded end of the axle through the right fork leg and push it through the fork, the short external spacer and the wheel hub until it begins to emerge from the left side. THEN with the three notches on the bearing side, push the axle through the long external spacer and the left fork leg until the axle shoulder contacts the external spacer on the right fork side. THEN install the flat washer, lock washer and axle nut. THEN insert a screwdriver or a steel rod through the hole in the axle on the right side of the motorcycle AND THEN while holding axle stationary tighten the axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (68-75 Nm). THEN insert a 7/16 inch drill bit into the hole in the axle and pull the fork leg so that it just contacts the drill bit, and then tighten the axle holder nuts to 132-180 in-lbs or (14.9-20.3 Nm). THEN remove the drill bit from the axle hole. THEN install the brake caliper tightening the mounting bolts to 28-38 ft-lbs or (37.9-51.5 Nm). THEN BEFORE moving the motorcycle, pump the front brake hand lever until the caliper pistons push the pads against the brake discs because if the pads have not been hydraulically pushed out against the brake disk the brakes will not work when they are first attempted to be applied. SO, depress front brake hand lever several times to set the brake pads to the proper operating position within caliper before you attempt to move or ride the motorcycle.
This could be a problem of gthe gas you are using. Make sure to use mix 75/25 argon/CO2 for mild steel welding, argon 100% for aluminum and trimix helium/argon/CO2 for stainless steel.
Also check your heat (voltage) 16-22 is enough for weld of most steels less than 1/2 inch.
Place the large, round base on the floor. The outwardly curving edge should be facing downward.
Attach the three pedestals to
the base. To do so, insert your finger into each pedestal and loop the
spring within around the hook found on the base in the appropriate
holes. Insert the three plastic tabs on each pedestal into the base,
locking them into place.
Press the wider end of a lower
leg assembly onto each pedestal piece. By wiggling the lower leg
assembly side to side, you will eventually snap the pieces into place.
Hold the seat ring in your lap with the open edge facing upward. Press each of the six wheels into the wheel holders around the edge of the seat ring. Each wheel will snap into place when positioned correctly.
Insert the cloth seat into the
seat ring, aligning the diamond on the cloth seat with the triangle on
the seat ring. Each plastic tab lining the edge of the cloth seat
attaches to a peg on the seat ring. Snap these connections into place.
Hold the Exersaucer tray on its
side and press the seat ring into the center. Once the seat ring snaps
into place, it should be able to spin in place.
Attach the three spring caps to
the Exersaucer tray. These spring caps cover the three large holes in
your tray, and are attached by a firm clockwise twist.
Attach the upper leg assemblies
to the upper leg crowns. These crowns act as the "socket" and the upper
leg assemblies act as the "ball." By pressing them together with a
click, the upper leg assemblies can twist and rotate in place.
Turn the tray upside down and
press each upper leg crown base into the round holes in the tray with a
firm twist. Each upper leg crown features a height adjustment hole,
which will face outward when properly attached.
Turn over the tray so that the
upper leg assemblies are facing downward. Insert each upper leg assembly
into a lower leg assembly, being sure to pull away the height
adjustment tab to allow the assemblies to slide together.
Press each toy into its
respective port on the surface of the tray. The toys each have a
distinct base, which clicks into the correspondingly shaped tray port
If the motor is using a single phase supply there will be a capacitor which could have reduced in value- open.
If so try and use a capacitor in parallel to see if the motor works-- in this case the motor might hum and get heated up.
There are two ways to get in there. The easiest way is to drill a three inch hole in the inner liner, about six inches from the bottom and about five inches to the right of center (looking from inside the cabin) You can then reach inside and pull the release rod by hand (most fall off). Once it's open, remove the latch assembly and clean it and spray it down with a good solvent like wd40, working the mechanism 'till it's free. If the rod did fall off, generally you can re-attach it and work a glob of JB weld or other putty type glue into the clip. That generally will keep it in place. You can make an access cover for the liner or get another replacement (inexpensive) at any scrapyard. The other method requires precision drilling and a bit of maneuvering to get done correctly. If you want to try that instead, just ask. (you don't need to drill the large hole but getting the lock out may drive you crazy)
Make your own tool using the old pads or 2 pieces of 10mm flat bar.
Drill a hole in one of them(Drilling old pads is difficult - Theyre
extremely hard). Flatbar is easier to drill. Weld a nut over the hole
so that a bolt(should be about 80mm 2-3 inches) screwed into the nut
will pass through the hole. Use as per diagram. Unscrewing the bolt will
pry the caliper open. (Be sure to open the brake fluid reservoir.)
Making this will take you 10 minutes and cost next to nothing.
Dont go forcing the calipers with a screwdriver, wrenches, crowbars or
other manner of strongarm tactics. :-p. It will damage the piston
and/the caliper guide pins
You should NOT weld. braze or otherwise join, or "fix" an hydraulic lines, they, ideally, must be run as a single length again, any Join will simply fracture... Also if they are developing "Pin Holes" this is probably due to the material breaking down, and like a "Cancer" it will simply spread, and fail at a probable inappropriate time, not as though there are any good times? As an aside there are "Joiner" kit available for hydraulic lines, perhaps, cutting and rejoining like this may be acceptable? but still i wouldn't risk it, run new ones.
Boy I would be livid if it were my saw. I had a similar problem with a very old marine engine I resrored. A casting was damaged and not avalabled so I went to a machine shop who sent it or to be welded and than the shop tooled it. You can give it a try if you can't find the part. Good luck.
Choose the electrode to use for the project you are starting as well as the variety of alloys you'll use such as the 6061 Aluminum alloy electrode. Grind the electrode to a point. Try to create a tip and sharpen it to help it become more rounded as you weld. Place the electrode into an electrode holder with the tip about 1/4-inch away from the sheath. Choose the settings on your tig welder. The three main ones are AC, DCEP and DCEN. Choose AC for aluminum. Slide the "cleaning/penetrating" slider more to the penetrating side. Set the "air on" to five seconds and the "max amps" to 250. Turn on the gas. For aluminum, use pure argon. For steel, an argon and carbon dioxide mix. Scrub your welding table or flat piece of sheet metal with a wire brush to make it clean and flat. Gear up in full welding safety gear including hood, goggles, apron and gloves. Hold the electrode in your dominant hand and start your welding project. Check your settings every so often to make sure they haven't changed and adjust as needed.