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Re: DGX500 dust in the speakers
There are two types of speaker covers I've seen on Keyboard/Synthesizers and the cleanup is slightly different depending on what type.
The first type is the cloth cover. This is a fabric membrane that is streched across the a plastic frame over the speaker chamber. This is easily cleaned by using a vacuum with a brush attachment over the surface of this cloth.
The second type is a plastic grille type cover. For this type you need to go to an electronics store or other retailer that sell "Compressed air" cans these are cans that sort of look like a can of spray paint but instead just as the name implies all that is in there is deionized compressed air.
Look at the speaker and pick four evenly spaced spots around the outer edge. Give a short puff into each spot. and then go around a 2nd time. Do the same for the other speaker. Then around the outer casing of the unit there are likely some Heat dissipation vents. you can give those a couple of blasts. Then if you have more air left in the can you might want to do your speakers a couple more times.
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May be a couple of things; The first is a resonance in the cabinet, which may not be noticeable at high volumes. If the speaker cabinet was ever dropped,or got cracked from dropping , dry weather,or whatever, there may be certain frequencies that make the cabinet rattle. Try holding the cabinet when it rattles and look for anything loose,from a side wall to a loose foot, or the speaker itself. Tighten up loose items and seal any gaps or cracks On the cabinet.
The other problem could be a partially blown speaker. Test by lightly pushing in on the outsides of the speaker to see if it moves in and out freely. If there is a scratching sound, or it drags slightly , it might be blown. Also,the dust cap or another part of the speaker may be loose. Check that, and reseal if loose. Replace or have reconed if blown.
IF You don't have a separate external input jack. then you need to determine the overall impedance (ohm alottment ). so it will read something like 6, 8, or 16 ohm max. at that point look to see what your speaker output reads.(should be a plate on the speaker) if not, then disconnect speaker and put an ohm meter on it . it will give you a resistance reading , that is your ohms. so toadd a speaker, you must maintain not to exceed the rating. in hooking up. you can do it one of two ways. the first method woukld be , from the amp go positive to pos. side of speaker, and from the speaker neg. sid, go to the pos side of the speaker your adding . from the neg. side of that speaker go back to neg. side of amp. ( rthat is known as a series hook up. this doubles the ohm output of the two speakers ) - turns 4 ohms into 8, 8 into 16, etc. the other way is known as parallel. (from the amp take the pos.side and make a "y" and send those leads to each appropriate speaker. positive to positive. and do the same with the negatives. *this cuts your ohms in half. 4 int o 2, 8 into 4, etc. = hope that helps
The easiest first option is to clean all metal contacts accessible from the outside.
Depending on your location, aerosol products such as Servisol, McKenic, and Kontakt may be available from electronic retailers.
I suggest the non-oily, quick-dry evaporating type.
As phono-plug sockets etc are exposed to humidity, oxygen, etc they can oxidize, creating a thin film over the metal.
The contact-cleaner sprays zap the problem.
Failing that, open cover, remove dust, roaches, rats, cat-hair, etc and spray any plug-sockets / switches/ buttons/ connectors.
Unplug/ re-plug freshly-sprayed connectors to help 'scrub'.
Any connectors should be firmly seated.
Sometimes, they can 'creep' loose over time.
As for 'worth it', if it needs repair, your electronics repairman could hopefully give a rough quote if problem is apparent.
The limiter probably delayed the eventual damage. Nothing prevents all damage absolutely.
Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech for forensics and further action.
Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.
The PMP 6000 or 4000 depending on how many channels and effects you need is a good match.
READ THE SPECS... the speakers are capable of 250 Watts RMS (not 1000 as that is PEAK) power... like the ridiculous claims of 4 Hp for shop vacuums that run on 120 volts.
The 4000 and 6000 will generate about 250 Watts per side into 8 ohm speakers so is well matched for the B215XL speakers... by matched we mean the speakers are not likely to get blown out.
Connect a 500 Watt per side amp to the speakers and you will be buying replacements in short order.
ALSO realize how much sound you will get from the speakers.. they will cover a 2000 square foot venue fairly well. I suggest you get a sound level meter so you have a metric of levels when you are using the system. If you need more sound, you can add a second set of the speakers in parallel.
A common reason for 'distortion' with all bass amps can be either that the screws holding the speaker unit to the cabinet have worked loose or that there has been a build up of dust particles in the corrugations around the edge of the speaker cone, which rattle especially on the lower notes.
The solution is simple - remove the front grille and check the screws are tight. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the rim of the speaker cone.
Open the speaker and look for loose connections. Carefully move cone with fingers. If there is noise when doing so...rubbing type noise, speaker needs reconing or replacing. If the crackling comes from teh tweeter section, then the tweeter may need replacing.
150 watts should be easily handled by four Peavey speakers in the connection you described.. If the Peavey's are 8 ohms, then your total load was 8 ohms for the series/parallel arrangement which is well within the 2 ohm drive capability of the Crate according to specs.
I question if you really mean the speakers were in series? This requires a special cable to do this. Now if you mean they were "daisy chained" like the amp went to one speaker and another cable connected that speaker to another, then you REALLY had ALL speakers in parallel electrically which would be at the 2 ohm low limit of the amp... In either case, with only 1/4 of the 150 Watts to each, the speakers should NOT have been damaged. The amp MAY have been damaged. Try each speaker individually at a REASONABLE level to test.
If you plug into the effects loop out jack,OFTEN the connection to the internal power amp is broken so you might have to arrange a special cable as a wye to go back into the power amp as well as your external amp. In any case pwere ALL interconnected amps, etc from the same power source/receptacle for system safety.
It seems like the speaker jack tip needs cleaning, or the contact has become bent away from the connector and needs to be re-aligned. The Passport is a portable system, so after years of plugging and unplugging the speaker jacks may be worn. Try using the "Stereo 2" connectors. You can also try cleaning the jack with electrical contact cleaner, and. a cotton swab.