Question about Sharp R-1405 / R-140 Microwave Oven

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Sharp microwave R-930 AW - no power

Unit is ten years old and has worked without problems. Today, no power. checked circuit breakers; ok. After opening and closing door, power returned and it asked for clock to be reset. 
While resetting clock, lost power again. Could problem be in door switch? or? 
thanks for any help you can provide,
Don

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5 Suggested Answers

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9011 Answers

SOURCE: Clock on Microwave

Normally on a Sharp, one of these key combinations will do it:

CLOCK > 1 > 2 > 3 > CLOCK

CLOCK > 1 > 2 > 3 > START

CLOCK > CLEAR > 1 > 2 > 3 > CLOCK

CLOCK > CLEAR > 1 > 2 > 3 > START

Let us know if this does not work.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9011 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp R-1460 Over the Range Microwave

This is usually caused by either a bad upper door switch, a loose upper door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

Sometimes it's a lot to just secure the switch with a drop of hot glue instead of replacing the latch head.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9011 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Microwave Model R-1830: No power

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.

These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 204 Answers

SOURCE: microwave / Frigidare PLMV

What size breaker is protecting the circuit? Per the National Electrical Code, a microwave and a washing machine should each have their own dedicated circuit (and own breaker) rated at 20 amps. Also, if the breaker is old and has tripped many times due to continuous overloading, it may be weakened and could be tripping at a lower amperage than what it is rated. I would try the following:

1. If possible, test the microwave on another circuit and see if it trips that breaker. If possible, use a 20 amp circuit for the test.

2. If you're comfortable with working in an electrical panel safely, place a clamp on ammeter on the hot wire of the affected circuit in the panel and see how much current is being drawn when the microwave is on.

3. If you would rather stay out of the panel, get an inline ammeter/watt meter and plug the microwave into this. If the rating of the microwave is less than 15 amps (1800 watts), you may be able to use a device called a kill-a-watt at a local hardware store. This will show how much power is actually being used by a given appliance.

Posted on May 28, 2009

pgh_pa_guy
  • 2992 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp 930 AK Convection/Microwave Oven

When you close the oven door the latches operate a couple of interlock switches that control power. It may be that one of the door switches is bad or out of adjustment. It's also possible that one of the door latches is broken so it's not hitting the switch. There should be two door latches. Are they both there? This oven could be fixed by adjusting or replacing the interlock parts as needed. Because of concerns about microwave leakage from an improper door seal, you should have this oven serviced by a professional.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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