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Re: Both 6'' & 9'' burners come on however I turn the 6/9...
May be a problem with the switch itself, but honelstly dont take offense but make sure the knobs are on correct knob stem, it squite common for someone tho clean the knobs and not put them on correct valves
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First, try to light the burner in question with a match. Just hold a match to the burner, then turn the gas on to low. If the burner doesn`t light, the problem is the gas supply to the burner. Next, lift the top cover and put the prop rod in the hole in the cover to support it. Hold a match to the left-front burner. Now, turn the control knob to "light". You should see the igniter spark and hear a snap. If this doesn`t happen, repeat this step with the left rear burner. If you hear the spark and snap. If the igniter doesn`t work on the front left burner, but does on the rear left burner, the igniter does work. The problem is likely the control knob for the left front burner. The. Control knob includes the electrical switch the activates the igniter when you turn on that burner.
Most burners have an adjustment under the knob. Pull off the knob and use a slender flathead screwdriver. Turn burner down to low, insert screwdriver into knob shaft and rotate internal screw until flame is at "simmer" height. Can adjust each burner separately this way.
i wouldnt be surprised if its not the resistance for the lower temperature ,now as to if its in the knob or a electronic controlled resistance i would have no idea ,its not the element i wouldnt have thought as it should have a resistance but yes its possible the element has two windings in it best thing to do is to ask in the spares shop as they will know straight away
with a model number to know exactly how power is supplied to the surface burners its going to be hard to let ya know anything definate...but do ya have knobs that ya turn to turn on the surface burners? if yes knobs..their will be terminals on the switch marked L1/L2 on those 240vac should be there all the time when turning the knob onto high on terminals marked H1&H2 should be 240vac to the burner
if it has the touch button to turn on the surface burners 240 vac into board all the time ..4 individual outbound power places (one for each burner) and the one for that burner also should have 240 vac when set to high
in either case if 240 vac out to burner the burner is bad if 240vac into switch/board and not out..switch/board bad
Each burner control knob has a built-in switch that controls the igniter. It appears the front right burner switch in the knob is possibly defective. They are replaceable but it requires dis-assembly of the range front. Are all the igniters in a sequence? Have you tried turning the front right burner on while another burner has the igniter on. This may let you ignite the burner automatically. When you have another burner igniter clicking try turning on that burner. If the range has rectification igniters that will not work.
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone
burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat
control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on
or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs
broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure
no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner,
no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same
size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the
one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the
breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to
that one burner only.
What is the model number and the age of your range?