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Re: Both 6'' & 9'' burners come on however I turn the 6/9...
May be a problem with the switch itself, but honelstly dont take offense but make sure the knobs are on correct knob stem, it squite common for someone tho clean the knobs and not put them on correct valves
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THERMOSTAT CONTROL OPERATION
FOR IR20LPT / IR30LPT: The thermostatic control used
simply turns on and off the burner.
FOR BF20LPT / BF30LPT: The thermostatic control
used modulates the flame size as the temperature gets
closer to set point, then it turns off the burner upon
The burner will cycle back on when room temperature
drops below the set temperature. The control knob can
be set to any heat level between 1 and 5. Selecting the
HI setting will cause the burner to remain on.
Note: The thermostat sensing bulb measures the
temperature of air near the heater cabinet. This
may not always agree with room temperature
(depending on housing construction, insulation
location, room size, open air temperature, etc.).
Frequent use of your heater will let you determine
your own comfort levels.
The LED temperature indicator measures approximate
room temperature around the heater.
Note: The LED temperature indicator DOES NOToperate with or control the thermostat setting of the
IF YOUR UNIT IS NOT TURNING OFF IN POSITION 1 BUT THE TEMPERATURE AROUND IT IS HIGH THAN THERMOSTAT IS STUCK AND YOU HAVE TO CHANGE IT OR VISIT SERVICE.
1-5 knob has no info what is the parameters of temperature sorry!
Each burner control knob has a built-in switch that controls the igniter. It appears the front right burner switch in the knob is possibly defective. They are replaceable but it requires dis-assembly of the range front. Are all the igniters in a sequence? Have you tried turning the front right burner on while another burner has the igniter on. This may let you ignite the burner automatically. When you have another burner igniter clicking try turning on that burner. If the range has rectification igniters that will not work.
Follow manufacturer's recommendation in resetting the excess flow safety device....(Turn burners and LP cylinder off...Disconnect regulator on cylinder. Turn both knobs to high for at least one minute...Then turn them to off...reconnect the regulator to the LP tank...Turn LP valve VERY slowly (30 seconds) until fully opened..then start the grill in the usual manner. ALWAYS TURN THE LP TANK OFF WHEN DONE USING THE GRILL....
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Sounds like a short in that particular burner circuit. Usually when the light stays on even after cool down the heat sensor is bad. This is inside the burner. If your getting white smoke the burner switch could also be shorted out.
Make sure your tank is filled.
Straighten Fuel hose, so it is not bent or kinked.
Does your front burner light with a match? If it does light then check the Crossover Ignition System.
Also, It could be the way the unit is turn off.
Try following thses steps, this will help to reset the excess flow safety device.
Turn all burner control knobs and the cylinder valve OFF.
Disconnect the regulator from the cylinder. Turn burner control knobs to HIGH. Wait at least 1 minute. Turn burner control knobs OFF. Reconnect the regulator to the cylinder. turn cylinder valve on slowly. Then go ahead an light your grill.