Cant get remote to operate at ALL...Fan remains on low will not increases speeds & has to be turned off at wall switch Remote doesnt operate light at all....Ive changed batteries and bulbs. Can I use fan & light by changes out of fixture without remote??? please advise ASAP
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Re: remote not working at all
Check the fan and the remote to see the code switches are same. Sometimes depending on the age and humidity you may have to slide the switches back and forth to clean the contacts. Did it ever work? Are the batteries in the proper polarities? The fan and remote have to have the same numbers picked to operate properly.
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Although there might be a problem with the temperature controls allowing it to overheat, most of the time you will find that low air flow is the culprit. First check all the venting from the rear of the dryer all the way to the outside of the house to make sure there is a clear, open (fully 4" diameter) airway. Mashed ducting, dirty ducting, outside wall caps with stuck louvers, etc. will restrict airflow and contribute to this problem. One method to test this is simple - pull the dryer away from the wall, disconnect the exhaust vent (allowing the dryer to blow into the room for the test) and check the temps. If temperatures are normal (probably 150 -165 degrees) then the problem is the venting. If the problem remains after this experiment, then check the dryer's blower fan to make certain it is not broken, loose or blocked with debris.
Unplug your Whirlpool Duet washer from the wall receptacle.
Remove the three screws along the bottom front of the washer. Pull the bottom panel from the washer, opening the front of the washer.
Reach your arm up through the opening to locate the door latch assemble inside the body of the washer. Grasp the tear-shaped tab with your fingers. Gently pull down on the tab until you hear a click. Pull on the Duet door to open it.
Look inside the latch opening in the body of the washer for foreign material. Remove it from the switch with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Look for any pieces of broken plastic that could indicate the door lock mechanism is broken and needs replacing.
Shut the door on the washer and plug it into the wall receptacle. Confirm that the door remains unlocked. Unplug the washer and release the lock on the washer door as before if it fails to remain unlocked.
Unplug the Duet washer from the receptacle. Pull the washer from the wall so you can access the rear of the washer.
Remove the three screws from the top back of the Duet washer. Lift the top off the washer. Find the central control unit, or CCU, at the back right of the washing machine.
Check that all the wiring harnesses plug securely into the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids is the sixth harness from the left of the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock main switches is the only black harness connected to the CCU.
Remove the round retainer holding the rubber boot gasket from the Duet washer door opening by inserting a flat-head screwdriver beneath the spring on the retainer. Pull forward on the retainer spring to release it from the boot gasket.
Pull the rubber boot gasket away from the opening at the switch location to access the door switch assembly. Check the wiring harness on the switch assembly to make sure it is engaged. Snap the gasket back in place, and replace the retainer on the washer.
Plug the Duet washer into the wall receptacle. Select a washing cycle and press start. Listen for the door lock to engage. Turn the washer off and listen for the door lock to disengage, or wait 30 seconds and try to open the washer door.
Unplug the washer from the wall receptacle. Pull the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids from the CCU. Number the sets of wires attached to the wiring harness as 3, 2 and 1, from left to right.
Set an electrical multimeter to "Ohm X1K." Insert one probe from the multimeter into opening number 3, along with the wire. Insert the remaining probe into opening number 2, along with the wires. The multimeter should read 60 ohms. Leave the probe in opening number 3, and move the remaining probe to opening number 1. The multimeter should read 60 ohms in this position as well. Should you receive any other reading, replace the wiring harness.
Reconnect the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids into the CCU. Plug the Duet washing machine into the wall receptacle. Select a wash cycle on the duet, then press start. Listen for the door lock to engage and immediately unplug the washer from the wall.
Leave the wiring harness for the door-lock main switches plugged into the CCU. Number the wires in the harness 5, 4, 2 and 1, from left to right. The middle opening on the wiring harness is empty, so there isn't a third wire.
Set the dial on the electrical multimeter to "Ohms X1K." Insert one probe into the opening next to wire 5, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 4. The meter should read zero ohms.
Insert one probe into the opening next to wire number 2, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 1. The meter should read zero ohms. Replace the wiring harness should you receive any other reading.
There are two thermostats, a 'limit' or 'operating' thermostat which turns the heating element on and off, and a 'high limit' or 'safety' thermostat which oversees the 'operating' thermostat by opening and removing power to the heating element when the upper limit temperature is reached. Basically, the only difference between these two are the temperature ratings. The 'high limit' is higher than the 'operating' thermostat. The thermal fuse is the last resort protection.
First and foremost, you must know that every inch of your exhaust vent pipe is clean.
Usually, a bimetallic limit switch will degenerate in the direction of too low of a temperature range because as the parts wear out inside, the mechanical tolerance widens (the tiny rod that pushes the contacts together gets shorter).
The high limit thermostat is by the thermal fuse. The operating thermostat is in the blower housing.
Check the fan impeller for broken vanes and lint. The impeller is directly coupled to the motor and should not turn without the motor. The fan housing and ducting should be free of excess lint.
you may have aluminum wiring going from your fuse box to the wall plug (older house) .. if this is the case then you have to have a special wall plug that is approved for aluminum .. if you use a standard wall plug then you will get what you are seeing (it gets hot after a few years) .. the connections work loose and start to get hot .. if you have copper wire then you might also have either loose connections or the springs that make contact to the plug have lost tension .. make sure you turn off the circuit breaker before doing anything inside the wall plug box .. make sure water hasnt damaged things inside the box .. once the box has gotten hot the integrity of the spring contacts cant be trusted .. (they lose their spring force when they get hot) .. so no matter what kind of wiring you have you should replace the wall outlet .. if you have aluminum wire (white looking) then get an outlet that is aluminum certified .. if you have copper wire (orange color) then replace the outlet with one that has a rating of 20 amps .. that should fix your problem.
suspect root of problem is the motor capacitor bearing in mind that motor also drives fan. capacitor usually mounted on the motor. find the value (printed on the capacitor and you shoulod be able to source from a good spares stockist
You are purchasing new dryers when the problem is your vent line. The fact that your old dryer is now working in a different home, and your new dryer still has the same problem as the old dryer, leads me to suggest that you reroute your vent line some how. Your dryer vent line is really too long. The fact that you've added two 90 degree bends also leads to the issue of lint build up problems by creating added resistnace. It's a simple theory of operation when it comes to dryers. The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line the BETTER. All vent hoses create some resistance to air flow. It is typical in longer runs that the lines build up and accumulation of fine lint over a period time which adds weight to the line. This can cause the line to sag and restrict lint even more. Any bend in the line (especially 90 degree bends) also create points of resistance where lint tends to build up. This eventually leads to clogs, longer dry times, dryer overheating and eventual failure of the appliance. Purchasing higher end models does not necessarily equate to better performance. Many of your low end Kenmore, Maytag and Whirlpool models are great dryers and last years with proper care and maintenance. Even though you don't have this configuration, I thought I might add that it's also a bad idea to have vent lines that run vertical (such as in an attic). Dryer exhaust has moisture content from the clothes. When the lint mixes with this moisture it becomes more dense. If you have a vent line that runs vertical, this line will eventually settle at the lowest point of the vent line (which is usually right where it enters the wall). Reroute your vent line and shorten it and I bet your problems will go away. It's cheaper to spend the money on some semi-rigid vent hose than several hundreds on another appliance that will probably give you the same results. I hope this helps you,