Question about Craftsman 25cc Gas Line Trimmer

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Replace gas tube fitting

I tried replacing the gas line that goes straight to the gas tank and the small rubber piece came off. How do I remove gas bottle to replace?

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  • Paul Evans
    Paul Evans May 11, 2010

    The rubber piece that you mentioned. Was this inside the tank?
    The supply tube has a filter cartridge attached inside the tank. You just dump it out, insert the new tube into the tank, fish the end out, and attach the filter. Insert the filter into the tank, and make sure that it will go clear to the bottom. This is necessary so the fuel can be drawn.
    The return tube end just needs to be inserted a short way in the tank.


  • JERRY ABELL
    JERRY ABELL May 11, 2010

    hrllo!could you please let me know!!

  • JERRY ABELL
    JERRY ABELL May 11, 2010

    hello! there are three gas lines;whitch one are you talking about!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

#1 Taper
  • 1040 Answers

SOURCE: 32 cc Craftsman (Poulan) gas line replacement

Yes, you are right. The larger line goes to the primer bulb and only goes into the tank about an inch. The coupling just keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. The smaller line goes to the carb. This line must rest comfortably on the bottom of the tank with the filter attached to the end.

Jim

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced fuel lines. How long should the large and

the fuel line with the filter in the tank should go the full length of the
tank
return line 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch in the tank
when changing the one with the filter ,replace filter with new one

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace to fuel lines on a Craftman 32cc

Depending on the brand of line you use, Tygon line is self sealing but seems to shrink faster then factory supplied because of the ethanol in the gas. The stone gas filter is designed to fall to the lowest part of the tank, not stop the line from falling out.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

rycgl
  • 1545 Answers

SOURCE: replace fuel lines,craftsman weedwacker,

Fuel filter in tank with line going directly to the fuel pump side of the carburetor This is the end of the carb with a solid cover. . This line should have length in it inside the tank where it can flop around and stay on the bottom to collect fuel. The other line in the tank should have one of the little connectors on it and can be right up to where the hole in the tank is to hold it there.. This line should connect to purge/primer bulb on the longer outlet nipple. Another fuel line should run from the metering chamber side of the carb (the end with the hole in the cover) to the purge/primer bulb with the shorter outlet nipple.
The purge bulb "pulls" fresh fuel out of the tank via a vacuum created after depressing the bulb and the fresh fuel flows completely thru the carb and any air or old fuel ahead of it are drawn to the purge bulb which then "pushes" this mixture back to the fuel tank.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

2strokeguy
  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: need to know how fuel line end in fuel tank on a

Your Craftsman trimmer is made my Poulan/Weedeater and uses 2 different sized lines. The smaller diameter line is the fule supply line and runs from the pickup filter in the tank to the supply side of the carb. The supply side is usually the lower of the fuel nipples on the carb. Make sure to put enough line in the tank so the filter can drop to the lowest point of the tank while you are trimming. The larger diameter line is the return line, and will connect to the nipple on the carb that is closest to the primer bulb. From the factory, the return line went into the tank and had a small clear plasted connector on the end to prevent it from slipping back out of the tank. This fitting does not connect to anything in the tank, it is merely a return line. If the return line fitting is missing, just make sure to leave a couple of inches of line in the tank. If the filter is missing, you MUST replace it...it will save you from having to clean the carb out every 10 minutes of run time.
Good luck!

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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The rubber tube that picks up the fuel came off


What brand is a L110?

Normally a pickup tube comes from the top of the tank, and is held in place by a round rubber bushing with a steel fitting in the center. You can remove the steel fitting by pulling it out of the rubber bushing. Many manufacturers in the last 5 years have had problems with rubber lines disintegrating inside the fuel tank, and have come up with a 'special' hose to use for pickup hose. I would suggest getting the 'special' hose to replace it with, as a regular hose will work for about 2 weeks, and come off again. (due to the gasoline/achohol attacking the material of the hose and swelling, it will not stay on the fittings)
It may not be necassary to remove the tank, just use a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end to retrieve the old hose which has a weighted pickup fitting on the end. You will want to reuse the fitting.

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1 Answer

Need to know how fuel system and fuel lines are installed fuel lines dryrotted cant determine where to hook each line can i see a diagram


Line from tank with the filter on it is the supply line and goes to the carb inlet fitting. This is typically on the "bottom" of the carb (with the tank being up) and will usually have a fitting with barbs or a bulge on it to ensure a tight fit. The other fitting on the carb is the return line and is usually a straight tube fitting with no barbs. That line goes the suction side of the primer bulb. The third line goes from the outlet of the primer bulb to the return barb fitting in the bottom of the tank. Fittings have to be removed from tank to properly install the new hoses on them. Remove retainer ring on outside of tank and push fittings into tank, then shake out of the fill opening. More details on proper installation follows.

If yours is like all the Ryobi units that I have seen you just need a piece about 12" long of 1/8 ID fuel line. You can usually order that from parts suppliers or get it at some lawn and garden repairs shops. Hardware stores will not likely have it. There is a fitting with a hose barb on it that fits through the tank. On the outside of the tank on the bottom there will be a round plastic ring, assuming the fitting is still in place and just the hose split at the fitting. Use a knife or thin blade of some type to pry off ring. It is actually around the hose that is over the barb. Keep ring, you will need again. Now push fitting up into the tank. You may have to trim off the hose that is outside the tank on the barb to get it to go into the tank. Shake tank around and get fitting out of tank. You will see there is a piece of hose on it yet. Remove that piece of hose. Now take the new hose and slide it onto the barb. It must go all the way to the top of the barb fitting so that the hose actually goes into the tank through the hole drilled in the tank. The OD of the hose acts as the seal to keep gas from leaking out of the tank. You may need to put some oil of some type (vegetable oil works well) on the barb and inside of hose to help slip it on and use some pliers with smooth or rounded jaws ( no serrations, will damage hose) to get hose on. Thread other end of hose into the fill hole of the tank and out the hole in the bottom of the tank. Hint: Straighten out paper clip or use small wire inserted into the hole from the bottom of the tank up towards the fill opening. Slip tube over that and use the wire to guid the tube directly to the opening. Pull hose through the tank. When fitting with barb and hose over it reached the hole in the tank it will resist being pulled through. Carefully pull firmly on hose to stretch it so the hose/fitting "bulge" pulls into the hole in the tank. Look into tank and see when top flange of fitting is tight against the bottom inside of tank. You should see bottom of barb outside of the tank with the hose on it. Once in place put the plastic retainer ring back over hose and push up to bottom of tank. It should fit snuggly when you get to the "bulge" area. Cut hose length as needed to fit onto straight tube fitting on primer bulb. Should be good to go. You may find that the other hoses are getting bad also and may want to change them at the same time, as they will probably be ready to crack also. You can reuse filter from tank if it is not plugged, just add a new hose as described previously. Otherwise you can order a new filter with the line already on it. That line goes directly to the carb inlet barb. That barb is also hard to push hose on. Third line is from the return side of the carb to the suction side of the primer bulb. That is just a straight piece of 1/8" ID hose and pushes onto straight tube fittings, very easy to get hose on compared to barb fittings.

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1 Answer

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Line from tank with the filter on it is the supply line and goes to the carb inlet fitting. This is typically on the "bottom" of the carb (with the tank being up) and will usually have a fitting with barbs or a bulge on it to ensure a tight fit. The other fitting on the carb is the return line and is usually a straight tube fitting with no barbs. That line goes the suction side of the primer bulb. The third line goes from the outlet of the primer bulb to the return barb fitting in the bottom of the tank. Fittings have to be removed from tank to properly install the new hoses on them. Remove retainer ring on outide of tank and push fittings into tank, then shake out of the fill opening. More details on replacing hoses are listed in another post about Repairing Ryobi trimmer.

Have you checked the spark plug?

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Need manuel to show how gas lines are run to carb. & pump bulb


HOW TO CHANGE FUEL LINE ON McCULL0UGH 2014 CHAIN SAWS.

I have successfully changed the input fuel line by purchasing Tygon tubing from a local lawn equipment dealer. I did not see the box he cut this from, but the tubing I bought measures 0.190" outside diameter. I gave him a piece of the old tubing and he matched it up. A 18 inch piece cost me $1.19.

The routing of the fuel line involves three pieces, one piece from the fuel priming bulb to the carburator is 3 inches long, a piece from the fuel priming bulb to the gas tank is about 4 inches long and the piece from the fuel tank is about 7 inches long. The priming bulb sucks air and fuel from the carburator and dumps it back into the gas tank. Therefore, when you press this repeatedly, gasoline will eventually appear in the bulb when the gas line to the carburator is full of fuel. The bulb may not completely fill, there will always be a little air in the bulb.

The fuel line in has a filter on the end within the fuel tank. If you find this has broken off, as I did, you have to turn the tank upside down and shake the filter and any pieces of broken fuel line out of the tank.

Replacing the fuel lines within the carburator compartment is easy if you remove the carburator first. To work on this you must remove the two screws holding the carburator to the engine. You may need to use a small screw Torx driver, although on my chainsaw, there was also a long straight slot on the head. The line from the priming pump to the carburator goes to the left hand line on the carburetor (as viewing from the top with the blade extending away from you. The input line will go onto the right line on the carburator.

The two lines into the fuel tank are located in the middle of the tank left to right and one about 1/2" above the other. The upper hole is for the fuel intake line. The fuel line passes through this hole and a second hole visible within the tank fill hole.
This was the trickiest hose to replace. How I did it was to use a piece of #12 copper electrical wire stripped out of its insulation. This was fed through the 7-inch Tygon tubing piece until it emerged from the far end. I also found it necessary to put a bull nose end on the Tygon tubing in order to get it to feed into the tank hole visible from the tank fill hole. Why? I don't know, but after 20 minutes of trying to feed the hose (both naked and with the electrical wire inside) into that second hole, I gave it a bull nose on the tubing by careful cutting with sharp scissors and using a sanding block. Perhaps McCullough has a special tool to do this, but a call to their 800 number could not get a knowlegible answer from the parts person.

After the Tygon tubing shows up in the tank fill hole, I pulled it further with needle nose pliers and was able to pull the copper wire back out of the tubing. I then cut the bull nose lead I put on the Tygon tube and installed the filter onto it. I found that a little oil on the nozzle and the carburator lines makes the tubing easier to slip on. The stuff the filter and Tygon tubing back into the tank fill hole and towards the front end of the tank so that it drops into the bottom portion of the tank. After attaching the intake line to the carburator, use the needle nose pliers to pull excess line into the tank.


Reassemble the carburator to the engine and you'll be good for another 10 years of happy chainsawing!

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Line from tank with the filter on it is the supply line and goes to the carb inlet fitting. This is typically on the "bottom" of the carb (with the tank being up) and will usually have a fitting with barbs or a bulge on it to ensure a tight fit. The other fitting on the carb is the return line and is usually a straight tube fitting with no barbs. That line goes the suction side of the primer bulb. The third line goes from the outlet of the primer bulb to the return barb fitting in the bottom of the tank. Fittings have to be removed from tank to properly install the new hoses on them. Remove retainer ring on outide of tank and push fittings into tank, then shake out of the fill opening. More details on replacing hoses are listed in another post about Repairing Ryobi trimmer.

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The part previously recommended is not the correct part if it is the return line that is bad. Return line does not use the filter. If yours is like all the Ryobi units that I have seen you just need a piece (about 3-4" needed, but buy extra.) of 1/8 ID fuel line. You can usually order that from parts suppliers. Hardware stores will not have it. There is a fitting with a hose barb on it that fits through the tank. On the outside of the tank on the bottom there will be a round plastic ring, assuming the fitting is still in place and just the hose split at the fitting. Use a knife or thin blade of some type to pry off ring. It is actually around the hose that is over the barb. Keep ring, you will need again. Now push fitting up into the tank. You may have to trim off the hose that is outside the tank on the barb to get it to go into the tank. Shake tank around and get fitting out of tank. You will see there is a piece of hose on it yet. Remove that piece of hose. Now take the new hose and slide it onto the barb. It must go all the way to the top of the barb fitting so that the hose actually goes into the tank through the hole drilled in the tank. The OD of the hose acts as the seal to keep gas from leaking out of the tank. You may need to put some oil of some type (vegtable oil works well) on the barb and inside of hose to help slip it on and use some pliers with smooth or rounded jaws ( no serrations, will damage hose) to get hose on. Thread other end of hose into the fill hole of the tank and out the hole in the bottom of the tank. Hint: Straighten out paper clip or use small wire inserted into the hole from the bottom of the tank up towards the fill opening. Slip tube over that and use the wire to guid the tube directly to the opening. Pull hose through the tank. When fitting with barb and hose over it reached the hole in the tank it will resist being pulled through. Carefully pull firmly on hose to strech it so the hose/fitting "bulge" pulls into the hole in the tank. Look into tank and see when top flange of fitting is tight agains the bottom inside of tank. You should see bottom of barb outside of the tank with the hose on it. Once in place put the plastic retainer ring back over hose and push up to bottom of tank. It should fit snuggly when you get to the "bulge" area. Cut hose length as needed to fit onto straight tube fitting on primer bulb. Should be good to go. You may find that the other hoses are getting bad also and may want to change them at the same time, as they will probably be ready to crack also. You can reuse filter from tank if it is not plugged, just add a new hose as described previously. Otherwise you can order a new filter with the line already on it. That is the part that was recommended to you earlier. That line goes directly to the carb inlet barb. That barb is also hard to push hose on. Third line is from the return side of the carb to the suction side of the primer bulb. That is just a straight piece of 1/8" ID hose and pushes onto straight tube fittings, very easy to get hose on compared to barb fittings.

Hope this helps. Contact me if you have any questions.

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Line from tank with the filter on it is the supply line and goes to the carb inlet fitting. This is typically on the "bottom" of the carb (with the tank being up) and will usually have a fitting with barbs or a bulge on it to ensure a tight fit. The other fitting on the carb is the return line and is usually a straight tube fitting with no barbs. That line goes the suction side of the primer bulb. The third line goes from the outlet of the primer bulb to the return barb fitting in the bottom of the tank. Fittings have to be removed from tank to properly install the new hoses on them. Remove retainer ring on outide of tank and push fittings into tank, then shake out of the fill opening. More details on replacing hoses are listed in another post about Repairing Ryobi trimmer.

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