Question about Solis Crema SL-90 Espresso Machine

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SL 90 Machine not heating

THANKS for taking our Q.
We have a Solis SL90 (a little over 3 years old) - when we turn it on, the light is STAYING RED and not heating (turning GREEN) ... Can you offer any suggestions ... oh, also, Water IS pumping through the wand but it is cold... we think it is the heating element ... and hoping we can get a part and replace ourselves ... (?)
THANKS for your help!

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Hi There are 3 things that could be the problem. 1. The power board on the left rear inside. 2. Heating element is burnt out. Replace the top part of the boiler and order a brew head gasket and replace it at the same time while you have the machine apart. 3. and less likely is the temperature sensor. 2 red wires goes from the board to the top of the boiler.

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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There can be a couple of things. The heating element could be bad. Check with an ohms meter. 12 - 16 ohms between the element terminals. You could have a bad power board. There is a solder connection that seperates and can be resoldered. Look for a small bulls eye where 3 solder connections make a triangle in the top left side. A little heat and new solder can fix it sometimes but don't put too much solder on or you will short the connections. If this doesn't fix the problem you need a new board.

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Where are you located? There are a couple of things that will cause the boiler not to heat. The power board that you can replace your self if you are handy. Heating element that is a little more detailed but can be handled by a lot of people. You did not give all the details but do you have power at all? Could be the thermal fuse. Yes they are worth fixing compared to buying new. if you chose to repair also change the brew head gasket. That should be changed yearly or at least every 2 years.

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Changing the control board on a SL 90 Re: Checking and Resoldering bad Solder Joints on an SL90


Tools:
#1 Phillip screwdriver
Scissors or Wire Cutters
Soldering Kit

Step 1.
Unplug Machine and remove the water tank.

Step 2.
Unscrew and Remove the recessed Phillips screw from the top back of the machine, right where the top of the water tank sits.

Step 3.
With the front machine resting against your chest, so the faceplate does not "pop" out, pull from the back -top of the machine (cup warmer), towards the front. To remove the top of the machine (cup warmer) you only need to slide it forward until the faceplate is vertical (perhaps ¾ of an inch), we caution against bringing it any further forward than this point. This will allow you to remove the top. You may let it dangle over the back of the machine where your water tank sits as it won’t hurt the machine. Take off the faceplate by carefully unplugging it from your power board on the left side of the machine.

Step 4.
There may be a white plastic zip tie that holds down your power board. You can remove this piece using scissors or wire cutters (please be very careful!). Next, slide your power board up and out of the two black metal sleeves. Do not worry about disconnecting any wires, as you only need to look at the back of the electrical board where all the small metal dots are. Notice the picture below as it highlights the solder joints that control the heating of your machine. If any of these look discolored (brownish-black) or is a dull gray (vs. shinny silver) then it is going to need to be resoldered.


moz-screenshot.jpgb17e9ba.jpg




Step 5.
If you have a Soldering Kit at home, resolder these three joints, making sure to melt some of the original solder. Once you are finished, put your machine back together and test it.

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