The seat on the scooetr broke while I was coming home from the local stop and shop, though I fell, I wasn't hurt, but, I am now without transportation, without the seat, my independence is gone, getting help from other people, is almopst nil, can you help me get a seat for my scooter? Medicare is willing to pay for the seat, thank you Ahmad Salazar 516-280-2867
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Batteries for mobility scooters are something of a problem.
Sealed lead acid batteries are used a lot in mobility scooters and they do tend to stop working quite suddenly.
Because of the way a mobility scooter is used the temptation to buy the less expensive standby type of battery should be avoided and for the best lifespan and performance it should be either a battery designated as a traction battery or a deep cycle battery.
This type of battery is designed to be repeatedly discharged and recharged whereas standby batteries (and ordinary car batteries) are not.
Traction quality batteries are more expensive and prices vary quite a lot. Replacing like for like is best and they are usually standard sizes and capacities so a particular type could be supplied by half a dozen different manufacturers at half a dozen different prices.
There are shops and businesses springing up dedicated to selling and servicing disability scooters but they tend to charge a significant profit margin for their services and such things as batteries.
I was recently asked to supply two disability scooter batteries and I checked with Yuasa, one of my favourite battery brands, and they told me a choice of two specifications in the same size case and provided contact details for local stockists.
A couple of phone calls later and all I had to do was wait for them to be delivered. I chose the higher specification and surprisingly they were cheaper where I bought from but more expensive from other places.
Like tyres and other things there are no retail prices and buying in bulk brings lower prices. A busy retailer tends to pass on the savings so buying mail order from a big city as I did could save more than the cost of carriage over buying local.
Needs a full overnight charge of at least 12 hours and left on charge even when the lights tell you it's is charged up.then get into the habit of running it right down to improve the storage stamina of battery.good idea to take charger out with you so if you get a chance to top it up somewhere whilst away from home.remember in cold weather these things can't travel as far.
I think the following is the post that is in question. I don't see "pod" anywhere in this text. However "pot" is mentioned quite a few times. Do you know what a pot is? Its short for potentiometer, which is kind of variable register when you turn it, it changes its resistance. What controls the speed of the scooter is the toggle throttle lever which are connected to pots. If you have anymore questions please feel free to ask. Be patient i just got my gull bladder removed, it wasn't fun.
You don't want to ever bypass anything on these scooters, doing so will
either get someone hurt or silverly damage the scooter. There is a good
reason your scooter is shutting down. The controller monitors the
amperage flow, if at any time the amperage is to high for to long a
period of time the controller will shut down the motor, so as you can
see there is no sensor to bypass. Also the controller will send a code 4
failure out to a LED out on tiller head. There should be a lamp
blinking on the tiller head when the motor is off line. The service lamp
is cyclic, in this case the lamp to flash 4 times pause flash 4 times
iT sounds to me like you have one or more shorted windings on the
armature of your drive motor which is apart of the trans-axle assembly.
TO BE SURE remove the entire trans-axle module. I have a Rascal 600t all
i have to do to remove my trans-axle is to remove to quick pins and my
entire trans-axle assembly comes away from the scooter. Take the entire
assembly down to your local motor repair shop that can rewind motors.
Thay will check out the motor, take it apart and clean all the carbon
dust from the brushes that gets all over the interior of the motor,
doesn't do the motor bearing any good. Rewinding a motor isn't
inexpensive costing $200 and up depending on the size and complexity of
the motor. But the scooter trans-axle cost is astoundingly high at
$1,500 and up. They say they are sealed unit and that they can not be
repaired. In reality trans-axles are quite simple to repair and easily
repaired. The only difficult thing are the scooter companies that will
not come across with the parts and info we need in order for us to keep
our scooters in good repair. So ii'd take the trans-axle down to the
motor shop. They don't charge anything to check it out. When they do
maintenance you will know its working right. When troubleshooting
problem with scooter you eliminate half the machine when you eliminate
the trans-axle. Get back to me once you've checked it out
If you want to do a check of the trans-axle your self. You
can do this by blocking the drive wheels off the ground. Turn the speed
pot to slow. Just give the motor enough power to just move the tires
very slowly. Does it take allot of throttle to move the motor. Could be
stiff bearings. Does the motor stall out. Hook an amp meter in series
to the motor, run the motor real slow. Does the meter needle bounce
around allot. If it does that means the winding are not so good. Now
floor scooter. Does the trans-axle get hot. There usually a brake
assembly at the end of the motor. When you start or stop the motor put
your fingers on it you should feel it engage and disengage. Is that
brake dragging, does it get hot. This brake assembly gives me lots of
grief, drying out it gets stuck. WARNING never use WD40 it eats certain
plastics and gets gummy. I use pure silicon oil spray. Hope this helps.
1)Make sure the battery's fully charged..
2)Your brake lock and unlock leaver under your seat..be sure its totallyengaged in the locked position in other words ''all the way pushed down''.
3)Take the shroud off the back, this can be done by removing the seat, hold the seat leaver up towards you ,Now you should be able to rotate the seat when you have lifted that leaver when it does rotate lift up the seat it will come off.now that the seat,the shroud are off. you will be able to see the battery's make sure the connections are good and tight...
4)Tilt the scooter over on its side there is a grayish white cable this is your front-to-rear cable follow it from the front to the back ,make sure there is no cut or broken spots'which would be a spot on the cable that looks as if its been scraped against the ground .If there is a brake in that cable it will need replacement.
* Put the shroud and the seat back on the scooter if everything checks out ,Get on the scooter turn the key make sure that needle goes all the way to fully charged mark go slow tap the top of the console if it stops faster than it did before or doesn't at all your looking at a new key switch.
It could be a loose battery connector and the controller heats up when it's trying to pull amperage out of the batteries but can't because of the loose connection Try tightening bolts on batteries but disconnect them first. Also it could be the brake on the motor and if the unit isn't shutting off the lights on the tiller blink in patterns to let you know what problems to check for.