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Wire! Where does it go? Whirlpool Refrigerator ET21PKXGW03

Green and Yellow Wire that looks like it should hook somewhere by the coils. But I don't know where it goes. Can someone help me.

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3 Suggested Answers

oscarn
  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: Model ET14NKXEW00 Top freezer 1996 model Whirlpool refrigerator

Water from the melted evaporator frost is normally drained down to a pan mounted on the compressor . The heat from the compressor is normally enough to vaporize this water. Sometimes the evaporation may be reduced due to- high humidity (in the kitchen). Try keeping the exhaust fan on for a while. Also check if the drain line is blocked or shifted out of the drain pan.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4638 Answers

SOURCE: whirpool et21pkxgw03 refrigerator

This is a common problem when the defrost condensate drain becomes blocked. Depending on the location of the blockage is the clue to how to prevent the blockage. Most times the blockage begins inside the freezer and overflows into the freezer creating a huge area of ice while at other times the blockage is just as it leaves the freezer and makes its turns going down to the pan below your refrigerator to reevaporate into the air inside your home. On the link below the whole page shows way of this happening and ways to stop it and resolve the problem. Read the entire page and use the part that most refers to you leaking problem. If you have further questions please contact me at appliancepartsse@yahoo.com, Thanks, Sea Breeze
click link below
HOW TO FIX A LEAKING REFRIGERATOR OR FREEZER

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: my whirlpool refrigerator/freezer is not

Switch off the fridge for few hours then before you you switch on check the continuity of the main power cord to the compressor which comes thrrough the main relay. Now the relay is activated by the thermostat/pressure switch/defrost timer.
So you will be able to trace the path of the power to activate the compressor. however if the relay clicks and shuts off the the capacitor must be checked or replaced. However if there is a heavy drain of current- use a clamp tester meter- the compresssor can be a suspect.
Please check this link for a idea of the parts.
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2/278/identifying-fridge-freezer-parts.html

Posted on Sep 06, 2011

Testimonial: "very helpful...not looking good for my refrig!"

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1 Answer

I need to know which plug the yellow wire goes to on the bottom of a coil or capacitor. It is located behind the switch panel.


if it is a capacitor ( name will be on the unit) there will be 2 wires
there will be 2 terminals ( or 4 terminals that you can see as connected as sets of 2 terminals ) one wire will go on one terminal (connected or not and the other wire will go on the other terminal ( connected or not
the particular terminal for each wire is not important as long as you do not have both wires on the same terminal if connected
in reality a capacitor is just two plates separated by insulation and wound up tight and put into a case
so one terminal for one plate and the other terminal for the other plate

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see schematic on side of inside back cover if 120 volt plug that goes to outlet then if 12 volts from black and green ground go to block they should be marked

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1 Answer

How do I apply refrigerant?


******This is for educational purposes only. Handling, recovery and installation of refrigerant should be done by experienced, licensed technicians.******

The first thing you want to do is very that the problem you are having is caused by failure in the sealed system or something else. There are a multitude of checks you can do but we'll take the fast track.
1) Confirm that the compressor is running. Usually when the machine is low on freon, the compressor will run but not generate a lot of heat.
2) Remove the rear wall of the freezer and check the evaporator coils. If the coils are mostly aluminum, with a small section of frost or ice, then you have a freon issue, if completely covered in frost or ice, stop this route and diagnose for defrost issues.
3) Verify all fans are running, coils are clean.
Okay, if your check list all check good, then move forward with the sealed system diagnosis. The tools you'll need for checking are as follows:
1) HVAC guages, not automotive.
2) A piercing valve, some machines have an access port already, but most don't. I use a bpv-31.
WIth the machine running, locate the suction line coming from the compressor, it will be the bigger of the two. The smaller line is called a discharge line and is part of the high side of the freon loop. DO NOT MESS WITH THIS LINE. Once located, install the piercing valve, pierce the line, attach your gauge using the blue line, and open the valve. You'll now be able to see the pressure in the machine. You'll notice the outside numbers on the blue gauge, most in blue, the lower portion in green going to 30. The green means a vacuum. Your freon level should be anywhere between 5 and 10 on the blue side.
If your number is in the blue but way past 10 with the compressor running you have a restriction and you should stop and call a tech.
If your number is in the blue but below 5, you may have a micro leak.
If your in the green, the machine is in a vacuum and has a significant leak.
********* Note that knowingly adding freon to a machine with a leak without first repairing the leak is a federal offense, and carries a major fine, like $25,000.*******

Now, lets say the machine is in a vacuum, like at -10, or 10 in the green, we'll go to the next steps. If your gauges read like 30 in the green stop because thats a major leak. The tools you'll need for the repair are as listed:
1) Gauges
2) valve (already installed)
3) vacuum/recovery pump
4) freon
5) Freon can piercing tool since your only going to be able to but the small cans without epa certification.
6) recovery bag

Okay, turn the machine off. Leave the gauges connected and connect the yellow line to the recovery pump, with the pump connected to recovery bag. Turn on and open manifold (gauges) valve and vacuum all the old Freon out of the machine. Let the pump run for about 30 minutes.
Next, close the manifold valve, then turn the pump off. The needle on the gauges should be at 30 in green and not move. If for any reason the needle moves upward toward the 0 then you have a major hole somewhere and it has to be sealed.
If the vacuum holds, take the yellow hose off the pump, pierce the Freon can with the clamp (tool) and connect yellow hose to it. You'll want to unscrew the yellow hose at the manifold for a brief second to vent the air out, leaving only Freon. You don't want any moisture in the sealed system.
Now this is the part where you should have Freon scales, or a graduated cylinder to measure the amount of Freon. On the sticker on the inside of the machine, you'll see the amount that goes in the machine. Most cans are 10 oz . Most machines don't use that much, and over charging a machine will cause it not to cool.
Add your Freon by opening the manifold valve, and be sure the piercing valve is open as well. Get as close to the amount as possible. When done, close the manifold and watch the pressure to make sure it stabilizes and doesn't drop down. With the machine off it will be pretty high.
Plug the machine in and leave the gauges connected and watch the pressure on the gauge, it will drop, your concern is that the needle finally rest between 5 -10 in the blue.
If this is the case, Close the piercing valve, remove the gauges and your done.
******* Remember this a short hand version of Freon installation. This is nothing compared to actually having the right equipment, training and experience.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool top freezer refrigerator has water in bottom refrigerator


when the machine goes into defrost the heater in the freezer comes on and melts all frost off of the evaporator coil,the water goes down a drain line down to where the compressor and condensor coil is and there the water evaporates,your drain is blocked so the water can't drain down and leaks into the fridge section.when you write looking for answers you have to send the model number off of the machine,if the freezer is on top open the fridge door and look on the left side wall up near the ceiling and there should be a tag with model number,unplug the fridge or shut down the cold control,remove everything from the freezer and remove the back inside wall of the freezer,with a hair dryer melt out all the ice under the evap coil,i use a steamer to clean out the drain,if you don't have one you can try a turkey baster or anything that will push air or water down the drain hole,when you think the drain is clear pour hot water into the hole,if it drains down then it's clear,if not keep hitting it,you can also heat up the back center wall and ceiling in the fridge section to help melt out the ice.there's also a heater probe you can buy that you stick into the drain and it raps around the heater,when the heater comes on the probe heats up and keeps the drain from freezing up,you can also use a ground wire from an electrical piece of house wire or from a cable wire,cut a piece around 6 inches,stick it into the hole and rap the end around the heater,if it's a glass heater connect the wire to the metal in front of the heater,if 6 inches is to long trim it down a little so it fits.good luck,if you need anymore help let me know.

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1 Answer

Do not know cubic size. It is a side by side approx 10 years. Motor is running but coil is freezing up in freezer, refrig side is not cooling. Evaporator fan not running so changed evaprorator motor. Fan...


Hello,

The problem is still from the fan, try to settle down and try to connect the wire properly. if the wire is fix properly fan will work and refrigerator will also work.

Goodluck

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Try to find the "secret" wiring diagram.  Almost all refrigerators have a hidden paper wiring diagram.  It is usually tucked into a slot under the refrig, behind the front grill, or otherwise on the inside of the lower rear cardboard fan cover, or sometimes inside the back area near the fan.  While you're in there, it's a good practice to clean the coils.

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