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Wire! Where does it go? Whirlpool Refrigerator ET21PKXGW03

Green and Yellow Wire that looks like it should hook somewhere by the coils. But I don't know where it goes. Can someone help me.

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3 Suggested Answers

oscarn
  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: Model ET14NKXEW00 Top freezer 1996 model Whirlpool refrigerator

Water from the melted evaporator frost is normally drained down to a pan mounted on the compressor . The heat from the compressor is normally enough to vaporize this water. Sometimes the evaporation may be reduced due to- high humidity (in the kitchen). Try keeping the exhaust fan on for a while. Also check if the drain line is blocked or shifted out of the drain pan.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4636 Answers

SOURCE: whirpool et21pkxgw03 refrigerator

This is a common problem when the defrost condensate drain becomes blocked. Depending on the location of the blockage is the clue to how to prevent the blockage. Most times the blockage begins inside the freezer and overflows into the freezer creating a huge area of ice while at other times the blockage is just as it leaves the freezer and makes its turns going down to the pan below your refrigerator to reevaporate into the air inside your home. On the link below the whole page shows way of this happening and ways to stop it and resolve the problem. Read the entire page and use the part that most refers to you leaking problem. If you have further questions please contact me at appliancepartsse@yahoo.com, Thanks, Sea Breeze
click link below
HOW TO FIX A LEAKING REFRIGERATOR OR FREEZER

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: my whirlpool refrigerator/freezer is not

Switch off the fridge for few hours then before you you switch on check the continuity of the main power cord to the compressor which comes thrrough the main relay. Now the relay is activated by the thermostat/pressure switch/defrost timer.
So you will be able to trace the path of the power to activate the compressor. however if the relay clicks and shuts off the the capacitor must be checked or replaced. However if there is a heavy drain of current- use a clamp tester meter- the compresssor can be a suspect.
Please check this link for a idea of the parts.
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2/278/identifying-fridge-freezer-parts.html

Posted on Sep 06, 2011

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1 Answer

Whirlpool top freezer refrigerator has water in bottom refrigerator


when the machine goes into defrost the heater in the freezer comes on and melts all frost off of the evaporator coil,the water goes down a drain line down to where the compressor and condensor coil is and there the water evaporates,your drain is blocked so the water can't drain down and leaks into the fridge section.when you write looking for answers you have to send the model number off of the machine,if the freezer is on top open the fridge door and look on the left side wall up near the ceiling and there should be a tag with model number,unplug the fridge or shut down the cold control,remove everything from the freezer and remove the back inside wall of the freezer,with a hair dryer melt out all the ice under the evap coil,i use a steamer to clean out the drain,if you don't have one you can try a turkey baster or anything that will push air or water down the drain hole,when you think the drain is clear pour hot water into the hole,if it drains down then it's clear,if not keep hitting it,you can also heat up the back center wall and ceiling in the fridge section to help melt out the ice.there's also a heater probe you can buy that you stick into the drain and it raps around the heater,when the heater comes on the probe heats up and keeps the drain from freezing up,you can also use a ground wire from an electrical piece of house wire or from a cable wire,cut a piece around 6 inches,stick it into the hole and rap the end around the heater,if it's a glass heater connect the wire to the metal in front of the heater,if 6 inches is to long trim it down a little so it fits.good luck,if you need anymore help let me know.

Jun 19, 2012 | Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Hi there i have bought whirlpool fridge freezer 6 yrs back till now it was working ok but recently we have noticed our milk and vegetables started getting spoiled in 2 - 3 days. i have been told to clean...


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

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heatman101

Jul 12, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Model 20RID4 freezers side fine but fridge side not cooling


Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator 's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .


I hope this will help in solving the problem, do take care in handling the refrigerator....

Jul 06, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

A double door refrigerator.FREEZER WORKING BUT NO COOLING IN BOTTOM DOOR AREA


Hi,
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section . Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Hope this will work out the problem.....

Nov 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool side by side. The freezer works fine. The refrig. is not cooling. HELP


Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .


Good luck in solving the problem......

Aug 17, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool top freezer refrigerator model#ET1FTKXKQ11, The freezer is working, refrigerator is not, the fan in the freezer compartment is not coming on. I have unplugged the fridge, disconnected...


Hello,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .


Good luck in solving the problem.......

Aug 15, 2010 | Whirlpool ET1FTKXK Top Freezer...

1 Answer

My whirlpool freezer is working but the fridge part is not?


Hello,


Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

hope this helpout.......

Aug 15, 2010 | Whirlpool ET8GTMXK Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Water on interior shelf of refrigerator - Whirlpool, Imperial Series with top freezer


First check the door seal for leaks, If none found. Remove the back panel in your freezer and at the bottom of the evaporator coil you will see a hole about ½” in diameter this is the drain tube. You might need to use some warm water to melt the ice and then run a wire being very careful not to puncture the hose and run it down the tube to free up the drain. This tube travel down to the bottom of your refrigerator to a pan sometimes located on top of the compressor or somewhere else down there. It collects the water there to evaporate. You can enter your model # at www.appliancehelponline.com for a diagram or illustration of your refrigerator. Not all models are available.

Apr 14, 2010 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Whirpool et21pkxgw03 refrigerator leaks water into the crisper bins, underneath the bins, and on the top shelf. What is causing this?


This is a common problem when the defrost condensate drain becomes blocked. Depending on the location of the blockage is the clue to how to prevent the blockage. Most times the blockage begins inside the freezer and overflows into the freezer creating a huge area of ice while at other times the blockage is just as it leaves the freezer and makes its turns going down to the pan below your refrigerator to reevaporate into the air inside your home. On the link below the whole page shows way of this happening and ways to stop it and resolve the problem. Read the entire page and use the part that most refers to you leaking problem. If you have further questions please contact me at appliancepartsse@yahoo.com, Thanks, Sea Breeze
click link below
HOW TO FIX A LEAKING REFRIGERATOR OR FREEZER

Aug 24, 2009 | Whirlpool ET1FHTXM Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Frost buildup in the freezer coils


you have defrost problem timer defrost thermostart or heater best bet call service

Apr 06, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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