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DOES THIS SYSTEM FEED YOUR HOME.DOES IT HAVE PSI TANK. WHAT COULD BE HAPPENING.IS.THERE IS A PRESSURE SWITCH (fyg-2) THAT WAS INSTALLED ON YOUR SYSTEM. THIS ITEM, DEPENDING ON IT'S MANUFACTURE.COME PRESET AT 20/40 PSI OR 30/50 PSI OR 40/60 PSI. THAT MEANS ON START/OFF START PSI. SO IF YOUR PUMP CONTINUES TO PUMP AND WON'T TURN OFF.YOUR SYSTEM PUMPS MAY HAVE SOME WEAR TO IT OR A POSSIBLE HOLE IN THE DROP PIPE THAT IS NOT ALLOWING YOUR SYSTEM TO REACH PSI THAT IT SET FOR. ALL U HAVE TO DO IS READJUST THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO THE PSI READING THAT IS ON PSI GAUGE.
Hi, The only way to tell for sure what the problem is, is to have a good electrical meter handy. Check for a voltage drop when the pump goes on high... there may be a bad connection somewhere, or the wiring is too small causing a voltage drop... The pump may pull high amps on high speed, indicating a bad winding...or the pump binding up...
I think you will find that the problem is one of these things...
If it is starting and stopping, it most likely does have some type of leak. The check vavlve is normally installed on the suction side of the pump, and sometimes instead of a check vavlve or in addition to, there is a foot valve. A foot valve is just a check valve (usually with a screen) at the end of the line in the bottom of the cistern. If you have much suction lift, and the check valve leaks (or any leak in the suction piping) then the water will drop back into the cistern. This will also cause the discharge side of the pump system to drop in pressure, causing the pump to restart. You mentioned removeing the pressure tank, that tank keeps the pump from short cycling when you have low demand on the system. If the pump is higher than the cistern, and you don't see a check valve between cistern and pump then you most likely have a foot vavle in the cistern. Hopefully it's accessable by removing the pipe.
In the back of the motor you will find a start capacator. This will be a brown or black cilinder 1" around x 2" long. With the power off unhook the wires to it and note where they go, their will be two or three. You will need to go to a motor shop or a good pool store to get a new one. Then just plug it in and you should be good. If this dosen't help than you may have problems in the windings of the motor and will need to replace it.
The start cap supplys a boost of power to get the motor turning. Once it starts then the cintrifical switch kicks out and opens the points in the back of the motor. When it goes bad then the motor just hums and won't start turning. Be sure to replace with the same cap. The numbers you need will be printed on the side of the cap. Good luck.
you may either have a bad start/run capacitor for the high speed side or bad supply voltage feeding the high speed side. If there are no loud bearing noises, it should just be either of those two problems.