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Re: installing a rf 351m
Hook up the power to the battery and the amp then hook the ground up to the body of your vehicle then hook the RCA's to the back of the radio and the amp. Then you have to run the remote wire to the back of the radio and to the amp. On the speaker outlets you can either hook it up bridged or regular but bridged will get you more bass or power.
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the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water
you cooked the coil in the sub when you see smoke you have clipped the sub. improper wiring probably the issue ohms must match gain must be set properly . if you had gain all the way up thats what did it.
Unless you have a 2 channel amp, the best you can hope for is a 4 ohm load. If you hooked both subs up in parallel, you would get a 2 ohm load for each sub. You would then have to wire them in series to equal a 4 ohm load. Even if you wired each sub in series, or a 8 ohm load, then both subs in parallel, you get a 4 ohm load. The other outlandish option is to get 2 more dual 4 ohm subs. Then you can get to a 2 ohm load. Sorry, I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear.
You have connected it to the wrong power wire - one that is only active in service mode - first key position.
You should draw a wire directly from the battery (don't forget to add a 40 amps fuse on the wire) to the amps. If you don't want them constantly operational (you will have to manually shut them down) install a relay on the wire with the command coming from a wire from the instrument key position - second position of the key. Use a voltmeter to identify the wires.
There is no "best" its a matter of opinion, and fabrication. I have installed $75 subs in the properly fabricated and tuned enclosure that sound like $300 sub in a pre-fabbed enclosure. For volume, you will need a vented enclosure. For sound quality, a small sealed. Both have pros and cons. SoloX 10 is 2500W rms 5000W peak.
Kicker is plastic. Solobaric may be your best choice in such a small space, however soundsplinter makes an 8" RLi sub that will kick a$$ in the proper enclosure.
When looking to buy, compare x-max : as this is the linear distance the cone will move. More movement = more air displacement = more volume.