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Re: Dryer CDT00 not getting any heat.
Suggest you check the heater and thermostat(s), to be found at the rear of the m/c behind a removable panel., you will need a meter to do this.
If o/k then problem could be faulty control or relay if it has one..
To be found at the top front.
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A common problem with the WD64 washer dryer is the condensor working itself loose from the heater box on the top of the machine. This will result in terrifying banging on spin and, if left, screws and rubber seals appearing under the machine. If left longer, as it was with my own, the machine will leak from the condensor to backplate joint at the back of the machine.
The problem is caused by poor fixings at the condensor (the white plastic piece) to the heater (the silver box at the top of the machine).The solution is to remove the condensor, clean it and refit it with new more robust fixings. Hotpoint provide their workmen with a kit of heavy duty bolts, but I did it with a few loose bolts I had. Save all rubber parts as they are riduculously expensive to buy. I had to by the o-ring from condensor to drum backplate and could only get 5 at silly money. If anybody wants one at a good price I'm kolleykibber on ebay.
Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.
Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.
I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.
Check The Ducting To Make Sure There Is No Obstructions Inside. Find The Outlet Outside Where The Duct Goes And See If Your Getting A lot Of Air. In Some Cases You May Have To Remove The Back Of The Dryer To Remove The Biggest Lint Ball In The World. This Huge Lint Ball Builds Up Over Time And Quickly For Users Who Do Not Clean The Lint Trap On Every Cycle.
All Of The Above Will Cause The Dryer To Not Be Able To Get Good Air Flow Thus Causing The Machine To Have To Much Back Pressure.
Remove lower left filter,and washout under running water, reach into the opening and clear out all fluff and gunge, get a plastic bag tie or similar, and feel for and locate small hole at rear of compartment and poke clear with plastic
Make sure the air vents are clear back and front and try again, if still showing light then probably the float switch is sticking or faulty, this involves a complete strip down of dryer to fix.
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