On closing the battery holder / flap, the small plastic latch on the end broke off taking a small section of plastic with it. of course this was not covered in the warranty as it's not a manufacturing fault. we are now left with a camera that can no longer hold batteries unless taped up.
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Need to take inside door panel off and look at inside door latch. The locking rod probably broke at door latch. Or it lucky unhooked. To find whice rod it is. You may need to cut hole in platinum sheet near door latch. Then move one left to right. One will lock it and one will open door. Then check to make sure both ends are connected on the lock rod. Almost sure it is the small plastic piece broken of door latch. And when taking inner door panel off. Make sure all screws are out. And use flat screw driver next to plastic tabs to pop them out. If careful everything will go back together easy.
Not much data to go on here. The latch on the door has a spring that holds it down in the locked position. when you pull the handle the latch goes up and you pull the door open. You will have to take the door apart and see if the spring broke or the plastic tab that holds the end of the spring is broken.
1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.
2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".
3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!
4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.
5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.
6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).
7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...
8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.
9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.
10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).
11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.
If What type of car? If e39 1997-2003 or 3 series 94-99, easy. buy small inspection mirror. look up by the latch. you'll see where the end cable connects. With a small stubby, move the plastic that the end cable attaches to, you are then moving the latch. Lift up hood. Of course you must pop out the kidney grill to gain access to the drivers side latch, 6 tabs hold it in. Hardest part of whole job is removing kidney grill. moving latch takes about 7 seconds.
I had this problem. The spring inside the door which pushes the the latches down had broken (plastic peg had broken off).
I managed to fix it by attaching the broken end of the spring to the door frame using a small nylon cable tie using the small hole in the plastic fingers which was already there. Note you need to remove the inside door surround.
See the following link to remove the plastic cover on the door
check closely the flap. see if the spring pulling it to close shut is still ok. check the seal of the flap. that seal should not be broke or chipping. it should seal tight to the plastic where it is seating.
if there is even a small opening, frost would accumulate because of the air coming in from the damage flap. this frost would accumulate until the flap itself would no longer seal the opening.