Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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Gas does not stay on.

My heater runs successfully through the sequence of operations but when the gas ignites it immediately shuts the valve. My flame sensor has been replaced and I recently replaced the control board. My Lennox furnace goes through the sequence and gas valve does not stay on replace flame sensor,board ,gas valve and air switch and still does the same thing,What is it?4 ac peole have looked at it and can't figure it out.

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  • Anonymous Nov 19, 2008

    Rheem Furnace will lite and then flame goes out.

  • Anonymous Nov 21, 2008

    Unit come on , igniter glows and burner fires, run for 10 second shut off, then relites and runs about 4to 6 min and shuts off

  • jhen1 Dec 05, 2008

    Vent fan comes on runs for 20-30 seconds, hot metal pilot comes on for 20 seconds, burner ignites and stays on for about 1-2 SECONDS then goes out. After about 2 minutes the cycle repeats. This morning after watching this for 4 cycles the burner stayed on. The furnace went through several normal heat cycles then the problem came back one time. It is again working normal so far.

  • Anonymous Apr 06, 2009

    I have a lenox heater about 23yrs old . will not lite.. pilot is on .. what should look for . Thank You Charlie.

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I have just finished a job that sounds similar. I had to finally contact technical support, the flame rod was fine, 4.4 uA with meter in series to the board so I thought the board was bad. But the problem was the combustion blower housing the had trash in it and causing the air switch to drop momentarily. Whatever was coating the housing was coming of and was being blown around causing the air switch to drop out. With a digital meter it was hard to detect, so I had to put a jumper across the switch once the combustion blower reached speed. Then the burner stayed on, so I pulled the blower housing and cleaned it out and it worked fine. Lennox has a replacement kit to replace the blower and air switch. Talk about pull your hair out. I would have believed it if I would have seen it for myself. Never heard of anything like this before.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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Get a volt meter and check and see if you loose 24 volt power to the gas valve then make sure your grounds are goodif thoose are ok check for a 24 volt drop on transformer

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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Thanks for the input. However I have fixed my problem. I went to arnoldservice.com The site owner had a page on flame sensors that described my problem. He suggested cleaning the flame sensor with steel wool. When I did that my problem went away. Sense Arnold sells parts and could have sold me a sensor, it was surprising that he suggested the cleaning before buying. I later discovered he was a devote Christian which explained everything. If I ever need a part I'll go there.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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Payne 383KAV heater. Gas valve won't open to fire heater.


Being as how you changed the gas valve, make sure the arrow on the bottom of the gas valve is pointed towards the burner. Check for 24 volts at the common and main valve terminals on the gas valve when the thermostat is calling for heat...terminals MV and C. You will only have 24v there if the flame sensor senses flame... either pilot flame or main gas. You coud have 24v there without gas flowing or flame if is is a thermocouple standing pilot system and the gas valve is not in the 'on' position. But standing pilot systems usually do not have flame sensors.

With a flame sensor in the system, you have to have either spark ignition or glow coil ignition. If its spark ignition check for 24 volts at the pilot valve and common terminals on the gas valve WHILE the ignitor is sparking. That would be PV and C. The ignitor should spark and 24v should be on PV and C for 30 seconds to a full minute without ignition if it is a spark-to-pilot system.

If you have a glow coil, it will energize and burn bright orange for a minimum of 30 seconds BEFORE the main valve is energized. Then MV and C is only receiving 24v for approximately 5 to 6 seconds. This gives the flame sensor the time to prove the flame....if it does not prove flame, the system shuts down.

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My York furnace sometimes doesn't completely ignite


A noisy inducer probably is headed for replacement.

The igniter can produce a healthy glow and still be defective. Mine had to be replaced with a new, improved one.

The thermocouple could be defective even though it seems to open the gas valve when it should.

The heat sensor in the bonnet could be defective. That controls main blower operation.

The heat exchanger could be cracked.

Jan 10, 2014 | Heaters

1 Answer

Heater turns on and heats garage to set temperature, than shuts off. when the temperature drops, the unit kicks on again. everything starts working again but only for a few seconds and than shuts off. it...


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor.If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Dec 11, 2010 | Mr. Heater Natural Gas Garage Heater -...

1 Answer

The Goodman Heater was installed in 2004. Thermostat set at 75F, the fan that blows CO2 out was on for about 1 minute, then I could hear the sound of the gas blowing into the furnace, but the ignitor...


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

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2 Answers

Furnace shuts down intermittently when calling for heat


The flame sensor is not working properly, it is not allowing the ignitor to ignite, and this is making the system shut down, the flame sensor has obtain a build up of carbon, you will need to remove the flame sensor, and take a little piece of sand paper to remove the black carbon from the flame sensor stem, clean until the stem is shinning, replace the flame sensor and turn the furnance back on this will correct the problem.

Dec 10, 2009 | Heaters

2 Answers

Gas log will not stay lit for more than 5 minutes


Sounds like the gas regulator has failed.

There will be sufficient gas flow to light the pilot and get a flame prove, then the main burner lights, you will probably see the pilot flame reduce somewhat, and no longer fully surround the flame prove sensor.

When the unit is relighted, the complete sequence starts all over again.

Have the gas regulator checked and adjusted (if adjustable) or replaced by a qualified technician.

Jan 20, 2009 | Heaters

1 Answer

Heater will not light,ignighter glows,fan comes on,wont light,then shuts off


If your igniter comes on but no ignition, that eliminates the possibility of a bad or clogged pressure switch, high limit or flame rollout switch. Sounds to me like you have a control board, or a gas valve going bad. Could even be some loose, corroded, or faulty wiring. Before the igniter comes on the furnace does a self diagnostics to ensure everything is working, or the furnace will not make it to the igniter sequence. Inducer motor, pressure switch/s, limit controls are closed…then comes on the ignitier, gas valve opens, pilot runners and burners ignite, flame sensor detects the flame, blower comes on and all operations are working.

Hope this helps

Nov 30, 2008 | Heaters

1 Answer

Gas does not stay on.


The unit uses "flame rectification" (basically it is sensing a pulsing dc current) to sense the flame and is very sensitive to bad/poor ground and also to a dirty flame sensor. The gas ignition does not shut off the valve ...the board is not sensing the current thru the flame so its reading a "no Fire" fault and shutting down.

Clean the flame sensor with sandpaper till its brite and shiny and check all connections to make sure they are tight and very clean, especially the ground to the board and also to the furnace itself (sometimes we have to actually drive a ground rod near the furnace itself or use some other means to make sure that a proper gorund is achieved).

If still have a problem; I would try another board, the flame sensor is just a piece of solid stainless alloy wire so its really not necessary to change it unless the ceramic insulator is cracked.

Before you buy another board, I would suggest that you have a pro look at it.

Nov 15, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

2 Answers

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After troubleshooting like mad, I found that the flame sensor (rod that sits within the flame) was fouled with carbon on the surface. I believe this shields the rod from proper heat detection and the sensor reports that there is no flame and to shut off the gas valve to avoid explosion. Once I pulled out the rod and cleaned it with a wire brush, I have no problem whatsoever--fixed.

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1 Answer

Code continous flashing


If your igniter comes on but no ignition, that eliminates the possibility of a bad or clogged pressure switch, high limit or flame rollout switch. Sounds to me like you have a control board, or a gas valve going bad. Could even be some loose, corroded, or faulty wiring. Before the igniter comes on the furnace does a self diagnostics to ensure everything is working, or the furnace will not make it to the igniter sequence. Inducer motor, pressure switch/s, limit controls are closed…then comes on the ignitier, gas valve opens, pilot runners and burners ignite, flame sensor detects the flame, blower comes on and all operations are working.

Hope this helps

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