I have a single jl 12w3v2, when i hook it up to my jl e1200 amp, at low volume it sounds clean, but at high volume, my jvc radio just shuts down or sometime it don't but it makes my woofer sounds weird. Listening to my woofer up close sounds like something is rattling, but listening from far away sounds very clean. When the volume is turn up, the woofer has a little rattle even when the amp is adjust, can my woofer be blown.
Well if you hear a rattle sound its probably already blown...and the amp could be drawing too much power if the radio shuts off...make sure all your wiring is correct. also if your car is off and you turn it up it will most likely shut off cause the battery cant handle it. but as for the sub i think its blown. good luck
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I do not know what sub woofer and speakers you have and how they are installed, don't change the JL Audio amplifiers, they are very good amplifiers. Also amongst others, I have been using Kenwood in my installs for many years and believe them to be one of the top brands for head units. The unit that you have is a good, very good unit, honestly.
In a nut shell, the equipment that you mention are all top class and if functioning correctly, should not be the cause of your disappointment.
Low quality cables, bad installations or even incorrect tuning, are often the guilty party in cases such as these.
You could fill me in on what else you have and what kind of box the sub woofer is in and what car they are installed in?
Search for the source of your disappointment somewhere else.
if you cant see a physical cut or **** in the rubber surround or anywere else you can try to check the wires going from the plug to the actualy speaker itself on the back of the speaker if those are fine then its probably blown if its not that old you can try and contact jl and see if they will replace them i know kicker has some kind of replacement system in play not sure of jl
Your amp is stable bridged mono at 2ohms, however, having dual 2ohm voice coils will drop the amp to 1ohm if parallel and will kill it. The cleanest possible way to run this amp and keep it cool with lots of headroom is to run the coice coils in series then run the amp in mono @ 4ohms. To do this, run from one voice coil to another, a jumper. connect positive from one voice coil to the neg of the other voice coil. Then connect the remaning positive on one voice coil and the neg from the other voice coil to your amp (positive left and negative right on the amp) If your amp has a switch for momo make sure it is on, some are automatic. Hope this helps
THE ABOVE LINK WILL TAKE YOU TO THE CORRECT PAGE ON THE JL AUDIO WEBSITE THAT PROVIDES A NICE TUTORIAL ON CONNECTING YOUR SUBS. THIS IS FOR THE DUA VOICE COIL SUBS. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
it does sound like you shorted out your crossover which can be fixed if you know what you are doing, but in the long run i would try to get another one i know that raidoshack sells some small ones and is also cheap, if your positive that you didnt short out the crossover se if it needs power, see if you can cross your woffers and tweeters on the crossover, if not is there any settings that u can change on the crossover? hope i helped :)
First check the speaker wire from the amp to the sub, see if it's connected right. Second check the rca cables that goes from your amp to the back of the deck. I f both wires are still connected fine try to replace the rca cables. If it still doesn't work the rear out put at the back of your deck, where the rca's are connected are bad. FYI deck is bad.
There could be many issues, from fuses in your amp, to power getting to your amps, to "low" impedance on your amp, and the circuit shutting down. Or it could even be your head unit, perhaps there is a setting on the HU that turns ON/OFF the subwoofer. BTW, you are running to low of an impedance on that amp. If my memory serves me correct, the lowest impedance that they JL Audio recommends is 1.5 Ohms.
Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.
Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.
You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.
Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.
Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.
So I am assuming that you have just setup/wired this up recently? Have you had this working before? You can have a look at the gain control on the amp & see if this have been set really low. This will help if the signal coming from your stereo is weak. The other thing I would suggest is to make sure that the amp can actually push this sub. I know what the specs say:
Remote gain control, mounting hardware & screws included
but I don't believe most of these. Many manufacturers embellish what their products can actually do! With the bigger more established brands such as JL Audio you will have no problems, their products have been tried & tested so much on the competition circuit.