The blower motor is running the wrong direction to blow air into the plenum. Instead it sucks air and water on to the housing and drips on the floor. We did have a lightning strike damage a VCR some ago.
My question, is the damge likely to be the motor, which runs the same when wired direct or the ciruit board? Can I get a replacement ciruit board?
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Your humidifier is a bypass type. The only voltage needed is 24vac to open the water valve. Air only flows through the humidifier when the furnace blower is running, and the wet pad will add very little humidity if the furnace is not running and heating the air before flowing through the wet pad in the humidifier.
It is best the water valve is only energized when the furnace is running. Some furnaces have a connector on their control boards labeled HUM for this purpose. Test it's voltage when the furnace is running because some will output 110vac instead of 24vac you need.
As long as the humidifier start/stop is regulated by air flow there is no way to cycle it on/off with another device. If, however you disconnect that capability and, instead wire it to the heat on cool on switch it will only turn on when the stat calls for heating or cooling. You may need to install an intermediate relay off the stat wires to regulate the different(assuming that they are) voltage of the humidifier start/stop.What a fun project, thanks!
Hello, In order for the humidifier to turn on and off you need either a sail switch or current sensing relay. A sail switch senses air flow and will turn on the humidifier when the blower motor kicks on and a current sensing relay senses current through the blower motors common wire. If you have either of theses hooked up already and the solenoid valve remains open then the solenoid valve must be replaced.
The fan on the model 700 does rotate backwards compared to your typical fan operation. This fan will pull air from the duct verses pushing air into the duct. There are several things that may cause your humidifier to leak. The most known reason for leaking is the water panel/filter is not being changed frequently enough which should be at least once every heating season. You also want to confirm that you are utilizing an authentic Aprilaire water panel.
Is the Feed Tube tightened
or is there a crack in the tube?
·Is the base of the scale control insert sitting firmly in the drain
spud at the base of the housing? ·Does the bottom of the scale control insert have a taper to it to
direct water to the drain spud? ·Is the Scale control insert positioned correctly? The scale control
insert has a front and a back.The back
of the water distribution tray has an indentation in it to allow for clearance
of the nozzle, which is attached to the top of the base.If reversed, and forced into place, the water
distribution tray will break off the nozzle attached to the water feed tube and
potentially the housing, causing water to leak ·Is there a gap between the top of the water panel and the water
distribution tray for air to go through? ·Is the colored dot on the water panel, up? ·Are there signs of entrainment? Mineral build-up on fan blade, shroud,
inside of cover?
Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.
It is possible that you did not set the new blower on the proper speed. Black wire is high. Blue is medium. Red is low. If the fan is operating to slow it can run to hot and trip the high limit control. Make sure the filters are clean. When the old motor went bad, the problem might not have been discovered rite away your high limit control might need to be changed.
Also anytime you work on a furnace you can kick up some dust. Always clean the flame sensor.
you may try running your blower 100% of the time.this should allow the humidifier to stay on even when your not heating. once the humidity level gets to where you want it, you may be able to put the fan selector back to auto. also you mentioned you have a variable blower. this is great if it is set up to run at approx. 20% fan speed when it is not heating or cooling. at 20% you can circulate enough air through the house to humidify without being able to hear the noise of the blower. it will really increase the comfort level of the house if you tend to have hot and cool spots. if it was not set up this way, contact the installer and ask if they can do this for you.
The humidifier is designed to "pull" the air through the water panel. After it does the humidified air will re-enter the plenum on the side of the opening that it is pulling in from. Just keep the water panel replaced every year and you will be fine.
THE MOTOR ONLY TURNS THE SPONGE DRUM AT MAYBE 10X'S PER MINUTE. THIS IS A BY-PASS TYPE HUMIDIFIER THAT RELIES ON YOU FURNACE BLOWER MOTOR TO SUPPLY AIR ACCROSS THE SPONGE MEDIA.
NOTICE THE 5"-7" ROUND HOLE MUST BE DUCTED TO THE PLENUM OR RETURN AIR. (IF MOUNTED ON THE PLENUM, THE HOLE HAS TO BE DUCTED TO THE RETURN AIR, AND VISA-VERSA.)
CAUTION!!!IF YOU HAVE CENTRAL AIR?
A "DAMPER" MUST BE INSTALLED AND KEPT CLOSED THROUGH-OUT THE "COOLING SEASON".
SERIOUS DAMAGE TO YOUR COMPRESSOR CAN RESULT FROM TOO COLD OF AIR ... CIRCULATING AND "BY-PASSING YOUR EVAPORATOR COIL".