Trying to drill 3/4 hole in oak. After drilling several holes, drill stops. I can hold the chuck drive with one hand and still turn the pulley. It seems that perhaps the shaft is not properly tightened?
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Soap might work. Some use candle wax, bees wax, WD 40. I've prayed silicone on the drill bit. Using moderate pressure and low speed definitely helps, and it is essential to clear out the hole of chips frequently. So drilling in increments works. You drill a little, lift the bit up out of the hole to clear the chips. Also the type of bit used is a factor in drilling efficiency: wood boring bits are a good choice. Forstner bits are excellent, and spade bits are just OK. Hope this helps....
Sears sell chuck keys in all of the common sizes, of which there are only a few. If you have the old key, take it with you. If you don't have the old key then find the diameter of the three holes in the chuck (easy way to do this is to see what size drill fits into those holes) and measure as closely as you can the diameter of the gear you need. This is tapered, so measure (and double) the distance from the center of one of those three holes to the bottom of one of the gear notches on the ring on the chuck. You could also take the drill to the store with you! Good luck!
The chuck on almost all drill presses is held on by friction only by use of the tapered fit you mention. Make sure both the spildle tip and the chuck hole surfaces are completely clean and dry. Set your table so when you move the spindle down it will contact the table. With the drill OFF, put the chuck on the spindle and press it down on with the table as hard as you can without bending any handles or gears. This should be sufficient to hold it in place.
The chuck on 99% of the drill presses is just a press fit. The end of the spindle where the chuck goes on is slightly tapered to hold it on. Make sure the end of the spindle and inside surface of the chuck are very clean. With the motor off, raise the table high enough so you can still get the chuck on the spindle then turn the handle to lower the chuck against the table and press it firmly against the table to wedge the spindle in the chuck. There shouldn't be any need for anything more than this.
if there is any manufacturers name on the chuck like "JACOBS or ROHM" you would also need the chuck size 13mm or something like that, you should be able to go to a BOX store that sells tools and find the correct one. ROHM has a completely different key than other brands. Usually on the key on the back of the packaging it will give you what it fits. I would also suggest taking a drill bit and trying one till it fits snug in the hole and then look for a key with that pilot size. Good luck
Some drill-to-chuck fittings are known as morris tapers, and are incredibly strong. Look in the end of your motor shaft for a screw hole. The chuck probably has a screw or bolt holding it in place once the tapers align.
There is a long tapered hole in the spindle of the press known as a Morse taper. It holds a 6 or 8 inch morse taper arbor which is attached to the drill chuck. This is made to be removed frequently by putting a wedge shaped key into a horizontal hole in the drill press and giving it a little tap. This is for making tool change that involve removing the chuck. If you had two such tools (say two different style chucks) they would each have their own dedicated morse taper arbor. But there is also a short tapered cyclinder on the chuck end of the morse taper arbor, with a matching hole in the back of th chuck. This is not intended to come apart frequently, but it can be disassembled. I'm not sure which one is coming apart, but regardless of which one it is, you might try this fix. Clean up any bumps at all on the oustide of the taper and inside the hole with sandpaper 200 - 300 grit. Use a dowel to hold the sandpaper in the hole, and use the motor to spin it. --- JUST BE CAREFUL that if it grabs that it doesn't grab you! Once it's all cleaned up, you can you the press aspect of the drill press to seat it in place. You also might have to replace the arbor. They don't cost all that much and are available from Grizzly.com. You specify the particular taper for BOTH ends of the arbor. The long end is a Morse 2,3 or 4, and the short end is specific to the drill chuck manufacturer, like JT-2 (Jacobs chuck taper 2). Write back if you need more help.
You compare the following features: Horsepower (HP) is the maximum power produced by the motor. Higher horsepower allows you to bore larger holes through tougher material. Drill presses are available with motors from 1/4 to 1 HP. Size/center drilling capacity is determined by the distance from the center of the chuck to the column. Since the press can bore a hole in a circle with a diameter two times the distance from the center of the chuck to the column, the size is listed as twice the distance from the column to the center of the chuck. A 16" drill press can drill a hole up to 8" from the edge of a straight board or at the center of a 16" diameter circle. Variable speeds allow you to drill different diameter holes through different materials without damaging the material or drill bits. Drill presses are available with five to twelve speed settings. The more speed settings, the more versatile the drill press. The table on most drill presses can be raised and lowered along the entire length of the column. It can also swivel 360° around the column for boring oddly shaped pieces. Better presses have large, tilting tables with fences. Quill travel determines the depth to which the press can bore holes. Greater quill travel allows you to bore deeper holes. Depth-stops control the depth to which the quill descends and limit the depth of the hole. Depth-stops are good for repetitive boring and dowel holes. The more precise your depth-stops, the more accurate your boring operations.