Trying to drill 3/4 hole in oak. After drilling several holes, drill stops. I can hold the chuck drive with one hand and still turn the pulley. It seems that perhaps the shaft is not properly tightened?
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The chuck on 99% of the drill presses is just a press fit. The end of the spindle where the chuck goes on is slightly tapered to hold it on. Make sure the end of the spindle and inside surface of the chuck are very clean. With the motor off, raise the table high enough so you can still get the chuck on the spindle then turn the handle to lower the chuck against the table and press it firmly against the table to wedge the spindle in the chuck. There shouldn't be any need for anything more than this.
that depends on whether or not you have a keyed or keyless chuck. if you have a keyless chuck then you do not need another tool you must turn the chuck counter clockwise to loosen the chuck and replace the bit. if you have a keyed chuck then you will see three holes around the chuck of the drill ie the part that holds the bit. just below the holes you will see teeth spaced evenly around the drill. a chuck key allows you to put the end of the key in one of the holes and using the teeth you turn the chuck key thereby loosening the chuck and allowing you to change the bit. if you have a keyed chuck just take it to your local hardware store and they can provide you with the correct key and show you how to remove the bit. if your chuck is keyless the hold the chuck put the drill in reverse and pull the trigger use a glove to protect your hand
You may try to put a thick soft metal pipe (aluminium or copper) over the drill bit (longer than the bit itself by ~10 mm) so it will touch the chuck's jaws, then GENTLY hit the other end of the pipe with a hammer several times, holding the pipe a bit askew, thus trying to disengage the jaws from the lock in their thread, and try to loosen the chuck after each series of hits. Just be careful with your fingers, and better hold the drill by the chuck while hammering it - so the hits won't go to the transmission unit (sorry for description - hope it's understandable, if not - ask for clafication from me)
When you buy a replacement chuck it will have detailed instructions- at least Jacob's brand chucks do. Basically there is a retaining screw inside the chuck that needs to come out first- it may be left-hand threads . Then you put the short end of a 1/4" or larger allen wrench in the chuck and close it tightly. Set the drill on a bench with the chuck off of the bench and strike the allen wrench with a mallet in a counterclockwise direction. Do this several times, then you'll be able to spin the chuck off by hand. Reverse the process to install the new chuck.
There is a long tapered hole in the spindle of the press known as a Morse taper. It holds a 6 or 8 inch morse taper arbor which is attached to the drill chuck. This is made to be removed frequently by putting a wedge shaped key into a horizontal hole in the drill press and giving it a little tap. This is for making tool change that involve removing the chuck. If you had two such tools (say two different style chucks) they would each have their own dedicated morse taper arbor. But there is also a short tapered cyclinder on the chuck end of the morse taper arbor, with a matching hole in the back of th chuck. This is not intended to come apart frequently, but it can be disassembled. I'm not sure which one is coming apart, but regardless of which one it is, you might try this fix. Clean up any bumps at all on the oustide of the taper and inside the hole with sandpaper 200 - 300 grit. Use a dowel to hold the sandpaper in the hole, and use the motor to spin it. --- JUST BE CAREFUL that if it grabs that it doesn't grab you! Once it's all cleaned up, you can you the press aspect of the drill press to seat it in place. You also might have to replace the arbor. They don't cost all that much and are available from Grizzly.com. You specify the particular taper for BOTH ends of the arbor. The long end is a Morse 2,3 or 4, and the short end is specific to the drill chuck manufacturer, like JT-2 (Jacobs chuck taper 2). Write back if you need more help.
George, look down the center of the chuck jaws with a bright light. It's going to be difficult to see, but there is an Allen head screw down in there. Taking the screw out, will afford you the opportunity to remove the chuck from the drill. The drill should have a slightly tapered shaft, and the chuck has a tapered hole to match. It might be stuck on tight. Tap on the back side of the chuck, with a wooden block, and hammer. (Yes, this may require a helper)
Tap on one side, then the other to try to remove the chuck evenly. With the chuck off it may release pressure on the jaws. It may not. In this case the chuck will have to be opened up, (Which will release pressure on the jaws), and the jaws reset.
You compare the following features: Horsepower (HP) is the maximum power produced by the motor. Higher horsepower allows you to bore larger holes through tougher material. Drill presses are available with motors from 1/4 to 1 HP. Size/center drilling capacity is determined by the distance from the center of the chuck to the column. Since the press can bore a hole in a circle with a diameter two times the distance from the center of the chuck to the column, the size is listed as twice the distance from the column to the center of the chuck. A 16" drill press can drill a hole up to 8" from the edge of a straight board or at the center of a 16" diameter circle. Variable speeds allow you to drill different diameter holes through different materials without damaging the material or drill bits. Drill presses are available with five to twelve speed settings. The more speed settings, the more versatile the drill press. The table on most drill presses can be raised and lowered along the entire length of the column. It can also swivel 360° around the column for boring oddly shaped pieces. Better presses have large, tilting tables with fences. Quill travel determines the depth to which the press can bore holes. Greater quill travel allows you to bore deeper holes. Depth-stops control the depth to which the quill descends and limit the depth of the hole. Depth-stops are good for repetitive boring and dowel holes. The more precise your depth-stops, the more accurate your boring operations.
To remove the chuck on your drill follow the instructions for the type of drill chuck you have: Instructions for removing a keyed chuck
Most reversing drills have a left hand threaded screw located inside the bottom of the chuck. 1.) If the unit has this screw place the chuck key, with the chuck facing toward you, into one of the holes on the right side of the chuck. Strike the key in a clockwise direction with a wooden mallet or similar object. This will loosen the screw inside the chuck.
2.) Open chuck jaws fully. Insert screwdriver into the bottom of the chuck to engage screw head. Remove screw by turning clockwise this is a left-hand screw.
3.) With the chuck facing toward you place the key into one of the holes on the left side of the chuck. Using a wooden mallet or similar object, strike the key sharply in a counter-clockwise direction. This will loosen the chuck so that it may be unscrewed by hand.
There is no way to stop the motor from turning. It may require several attempts to loosen the chuck Instructions for removing a keyless chuck
Most reversing drills have a left hand threaded screw located inside the bottom of the chuck.
1.) If the unit has this screw open chuck jaws fully. Insert screwdriver into the bottom of the chuck to engage screw head. Remove screw by turning clockwise this is a left-hand screw.
2.) Insert the short end of a 1/4" or larger hex Allen wrench into the chuck and tighten. Facing the tool strike the long end of the hex wrench sharply counter clockwise as it is a standard right hand thread. This will loosen the chuck so that it may be unscrewed by hand.
There is no way to stop the motor from turning. It may require several attempts to loosen the chuck