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Kenmore elite HE 3t started pouring water out from front of drum

Front loader model number 110.42926200 started pouring water from front of drum when running. It does not seem to be making a seal at all. The rubber seal isn't torn. There is a 3/4 inch gap between the drum and the seal when the machine runs and the water just pours out. This started all at once. Ran fine before this.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • drkeithg Nov 15, 2008

    The Answer provided does not apply to my washer nor does it adress the specific problem I am having. Please don't send generic automatic replies

  • drkeithg Nov 15, 2008

    Please actually read my original post.

  • drkeithg Nov 15, 2008

    Please read the original post!

  • drkeithg Nov 15, 2008

    Are you guys trying to rip me off? Will someone actually LOOK at the original post?

  • drkeithg Nov 15, 2008

    What a ripoff! I want a refund!

  • drkeithg Nov 16, 2008

    Thanks aborcass for the only reasonable response I have received. I think that the gray rubber seal may have completely torn away at the white plastic fitting at the front of the drum. There is a rim of jagged torn rubber seal around the white plastic collar at the front of the drum, which is completely detached from the seal that is attached to the front of the machine encircling the door. If that seal is supposed to be attached front and back then it completely tore in two. If this is the case let me know and I will have solved this problem.

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Disconnect from mains. take lid off
prise off the clamp holding seal to cabinet - usually a wire circle with a spring - and peel seal off cabinet. fold seal back inside drum
seal is held onto lip of tub with what is really a giant hose clip. undo this and the seal will come away from tub.
on new seal, lubricate the slot in the seal that goes onto the lip of drum with washing up fluid.
starting at top, enter the slot in seal on lip of tub. work your way round in both directions pushing slot onto lip. this is the hard part and it may take more than one attempt.
when seal is on all the way round, replace the clamp.
refix seal to cabinet (easy to do) and refit outer clamp.
test for leaks on rinse as water level is higher

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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  • Expert
  • 147 Answers

It sounds as if it was over balenced at the time have you tryed to ajust it

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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I would say the drum needs realignment. Could be broken/bent suspenders. Check for that first..

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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  • Washing Mach... Master
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You state that there is a3/4 inch gapbetween the tub and seal,. the rubber seal is connected to the front of the unit (via a spring clamp) and is connected tothe inner tub with a larger screw style clamp, after openig the door can physically see that both connections are made?? its possible that the inner clamp has failed. if that has come off it would hold no water

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Nov 16, 2008

    you will need to replace the boot/bellow assy part number 8182119. it can be a little tricky yo do, but taking your time should be fine. first, the outer most portion is held on by a spring, which you an undo from peeling back and prying off with screwdriver, the inner clamp a little harder, but if you imagine the drum as aclock face, the screw to release the inner clamp is probalby in the 1-2 o'clock position, it is either a 9/32socket or aphillips screw.it the peels right off. when installing the new youll need to first feed the bellow over the water fill tube 11o'clock position.then its a matter of tyring to fit the bellow arround theouter tub(remember to have the clamp in place)and tighten when done,its gonna take afew try as it will want to fall off from the pressure as you stretch( third hand will be extremly helpful) after you get that doneit snaps overth efront of machine and youll need to "roll" the outer spring into place, start at top at fit around both sides before strectching over the bottom(third hand again helpfull

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  • Master
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BIG THANK YOU to Colonel Rick, the solution worked perfectly... I did find one improvement... before you pull the filter out... if you have a vacuum which works as a wet vac (I have a Rainbo knock-off called a Hyla) pull all the water out of the tub (you may have to empty your vac one or more times) and then have it ready (basin empty, machine running, hose in one hand) when you pull the filter... minimum muss and fuss, and a very happy crew when the machine is "up and running" in no time, sans ridiculous service call charge and multi-day wait!!!

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Nov 15, 2008

    Try to get sum new rubber seal (bigger thick than old) that will fix the problem temporary but you really need a mechanic from service center to fix your problem


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Nov 20, 2008

    Mine kept stopping mid cycle also, pouring water on the floor, then the start/pause button flashed and the door unlocked. I found the solution to clean the lint filter 


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Nov 20, 2008

    I just did this and my washer is now running instead of the flashing start/pause and door unlocking. It was fairly easy. Make sure you have towels and a flat pan to catch the water if you don't have the machine on a riser. There may be water inside so a wet vac may be helpful too. Once my washer finishes what was in it, I have these funky towels to clean. You'll be very surprised what you find in the filter! Best of luck!


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Nov 20, 2008

    Overflow Condition 
    If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is Closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door will remain locked, and the Drain Pump will run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. 

    Potential Causes:
    • Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked 
    • Check Wire Harness connections to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and 
    Central Control Unit (CCU) 
    • Check/ Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects 
    • Check for Drain Pump Failure 
    • Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off 
    • Check the Pressure switch for proper operation


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Nov 20, 2008

    From Duet Manual:"Eco Valve
    The washer has a specially designed floating
    valve that closes during the wash portion of the
    cycle so that 100% of the water and detergent
    mixture is used on the wash load. The Eco
    Valve insures that no water or detergent is
    wasted. (Fig. 3-16 - Shown from Inside Tub)"

    Note that this Eco Valve could also prevent the backflow of the water in the drain hose. If the Eco valve is stuck or leaky, the water in the drain hose will flow back to the tub when the drain pump stops. As soon as the pressure switch detects some water in the tub, it turns on the pump and the pump will move this water out of the tub. But the pump is unable to pump out all the water in the drain hose. The pump stops as soon as there is no water in the tub. When it stops, the water in the drain hose backflows to the tub. 
    In this way, the pump would cycle ON and OFF due to the backflow of a faulty "Eco valve" for a long time.


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Hi Water leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it's usually best to replace the washer.

Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:

Step 1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.

Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.

Step 6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.


Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix 
Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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  • Contributor
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Firstly
Check the 2 clips more or less at the base of the seal are not damaged.
Secondly
Make sure that the snubber located near the top of the drum is not damaged (this helps reduce vibration, in turn if it is broken or damaged it may explain why the clips are broken).

You can buy replacement parts but it may turn out to be easier to get a replacement unit in the end.

hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • detrosuk Nov 15, 2008

    Sorry I have just read the last paragraph again, by unit I mean a completely new washing machine!

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Look closer at the seal if it's out of placement. Else, remove and replace the seal if you can / have the time.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • monk3ybidzness
    monk3ybidzness Nov 15, 2008

    Common issue with the drum seal failure with that washer. Check the manual if the Stainless Steel tub has a Limited Lifetime Warranty.

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  • Master
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Sounds like something got knocked off of position. You need to remove the outer panel around the machine first and then open it up. The screws will be on the backside of the machine. Once you open it up, see if the drum brackets have broken loose or whether the drum itself has moved backwards on the shaft. Some kind of damage should appear. Look for parts that are misaligned. If you can't find anything, let me know and I will have you email pictures of the interior to me. If you find something let me know and I will get back to you as quick as I can on what you should do and can do. Please be patient if I don't respond right away.

good luck and if you have any specific questions while doing this, please post them and I will be happy to answer them

best

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Nov 15, 2008

    Oh, there may also be screws along the bottom edge too holding the outer panel on, and please make sure you have it unplugged while working on it

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You need to clean the filters .

Also you need to have a check over the valves for any kind of leak .

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • SAM ANDERSON Nov 15, 2008

    If you have a restricted or clogged drain, the drain line will need to be cleaned.

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Hi

Set the controls to the first wash cycle and then try each water temperature setting. If both hot and cold water seem to be entering the washer with good pressure, water may be draining out prematurely during the fill cycle through siphoning action. Be sure the drain hose’s connection to the standpipe is at least 34 inches above the floor (otherwise, discuss the problem with a plumber). An air gap between the drain hose and standpipe that prevents backflow is also good to have.

Unscrew the hoses from the inlet valves, and clean the filter screens just inside them; these may be clogged. To do this, pry out the screens with a screwdriver (this can be difficult because the screens may be inside the valves), flush them under running water, and then put them back into the hose. If the screens look defective, replace them. Then screw the hoses back onto the valves. Be careful not to cross-thread the hose threads when screwing them back onto the valves.


Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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Hi,

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:


During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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