My window does not go fully up and every time i go to pull it up or down the window goes down all messed up and it doesn't even scroll down it goes down in chunks making some weird clanking noise there. could my problem be that its not on the rail or that i need to buy a new regulator because other than that my power window motor works perfectly fine.
I don't know for sure, but it sounds like at least one side of the window has come loose from the mechanism that raises and lowers it. Some cars have two plastic rivets or pins to connect the window to the mechanism. If one comes loose or breaks the window will behave as you described when you try to raise and lower it. If you want to fix it yourself you'll need to remove the armrest and inside door cover in order to see and access the window and raise/lower mechanism. Look for broken or loose pieces in the bottom of the door cavity. Hopefully you can see what's wrong and get replacement parts from the dealer.
SOURCE: Power Window problem, 1998 Toyota Avalong xls
the window motor basically the set up dat make it go up and down behind the door
SOURCE: 1999 toyota vienta drivers side rear electric window not working
You need to replace the window regulator assembly.
The cables that run the glass up and down have broken inside the regulator.
Hope this helps. A FixYa rating would be greatly apprecited.
SOURCE: Driver side window
I had the same problem. There is a cable mechanism inside the door that lifts the window. The cable broke and had to be replaced.
SOURCE: Power Windows stop, and then move a little after waiting about 60
Sounds like it could be your switch going out. Does the rear switch give you the same problem? If not, then I would suggest you go to a junk yard and find one to replace the front one, even then they range in price from $35-60. A new one from the dealer is best but more costly. Good luck hope it helps.
SOURCE: 98 corolla drivers side window won't roll down or up well
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
86 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×