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Fridge stopped working loud pop\bang

I heard a loud popping sound in the kitchen, couldn't see anything obvious, then about an hour later it did it again. I opened fridge door, light wasn't on and fridge was not working. Pulled it out to unplug it and it did the same noise and my son's friend said he saw a blue flash through the crack in the door. The fridge has now been unplugged for 24 hours and I have just heard the same noise again. Can you tell me what you think it is?

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  • jek8 Nov 16, 2008

    Yes,I do still need an answer but am on a tight budget and can't afford to pay for it, I was hoping someone would advise me so that if I needed to call out someone I could have an idea of the problem and not get ripped off. Can you help me if I can't pay?

  • TNGW1500SE Dec 17, 2008

    Mine does that too! Wish I knew what it was.

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator not cooling.

compressor has failed. not a diy job

Posted on Apr 25, 2007


  • 1694 Answers

SOURCE: no picture

Bad IHVT ( flyback transformer)--need complete service
number off back for part #-----------Let me know...T.

Posted on Nov 02, 2007

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: popping noises and no picture or sound

try replacing the stk's on the deflection board (making sure that all of the resistors on the board are OK and that there are no solder cracks I found one of the jumpers had a bad solder joint on the one I worked on) but if that doesn't fix I have some raw research that might give you somewhere to start :
No. The CRT driver ICs are prone to shorting and cause this symptom (I just had one with those very symptoms and the green CRT driver IC was shorted). Disconnecting the CRT board does not clear the short on the board. Often then is a small burn mark on the CRT board under the affected IC (but not always). The IC should be a TDA6111Q. Be sure to note the proper position
of the IC as it should face with the letters TOWARD the heat sink!!!!

Larry, Check the CRT driver ICs on each of the CRT boards.
Bob Waterman, CET® #RI-28
Master Technician License #9109
Service Manager / Parts Manager
Gemini Computer, TV, & Security Alarms
(508)695-7302
(508)695-7769 FAX
geminitv@xxxxxxxxxxx
Hi Guys, I don`t see many JVC`s and don`t have the print for this AV48WP30, went out this morning and as customer claimed on phone when you plug set in and turn on it makes a loud thump thump in both speakers 20-30 times then relay clicks, the thump stops, and blue idiot light on front goes dim/bright, dim/bright, have to unplug set to start this same scenario over again. Never develops HV or audio, Will order the service manual today, but would like to know if anyone has seen this before (should say "heard" this before)
I would disconnect each crt board and hv lead one at a time and try. Have seen several bad tubes on that model. The only other problem I have seen on that set is bad convergence amps, however that doesn't cause shutdown.
Perry Bower
Electric Medic
From Tech Repair CD:
JVC\AV48WP74\just went click*click*click when turned on Video drive IC (IC1101) on the red CRT module
shorted. It looked like bad solder on the B+ was the cause

Frequently Used Top Five Repair Parts by symptom code
MODEL NUMBER : AV48WP30 - TV
SYMPTOM CODE : DEAD
TOP FIVE PARTS :
2SC5552-RL
2SC5904-RL
QQH0113-002
STR-F6629B/F7
STK392-110
Above from JVC Web site, also I have seen shorted video drive IC's on the crt boards short and cause this symptom. Try unplugging the 200 volt source to the crt boards and see it the set powers up and stays on. There is a B+ relay which supplies 130 Volts to the horizontal output circuit. Is this relay energizing? I takes about five seconds after the power is turned on for it to energize. If a short is detected on the 130 volt line the blue power lamp on the front will do what you describe and the relay will pulse on and off. (David)

Symptom:
Non-functional Digital Input
Solution:
1. Power off the unit
2. Disconnect the digital input if it is connected
3. Remove the rear cover
4. On the digital input module, using a shorting pin (PC type) or a
jumper, short Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the
SB connector
5. Power on the unit
6. Unplug the unit and remove the shorting pin or the jumper
7. Re-attach the unit’s rear cover
8. Power on the unit, and input the digital source

Posted on Dec 06, 2007

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: microwave made loud popping noise

The magnetron is bad. Probably cost about $50 or $60 for the part. Not too easy to replace, but it can be done.

Posted on Dec 14, 2007

  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: SRL551DP, fridge stops, display on door flashing.

You most likely have a problem in the freezing/cooling circuit. Check your condenser, evaporator fans to see if they are running okay. Most likely it may be the condenser fan.

Posted on Dec 18, 2007

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