When I am done sighting in my scope and I have moved my inside dial to where I would like it to stay, what do I do with the outside ring? Does it need to line up with the arrow or dot from the inside part of the scope that I adjusted to sight in my scope?
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That is a parallax adjustment. You set it for the distance you are shooting at. It appears to be marked in both yards and meters. This adjustment assures the reticle does not appear to move when your eye is moved slightly from side-to-side. Set it for 200 and look at a target at 50 and move your head very slightly side-to-side and you will see the difference.
This happens a lot during bore sighting, - no shock to the scope to jar the cross hairs. So take your screwdriver and use the handle - rap the scope or better just tap it. Not hard enough to bend/dent it but jar it so things can move if need to.
Something is wrong with the mounts, they have to be loose or something. I can hit better than that with iron sights. Unless the internals of the scope are loose. You have it mounted in a sled? Is it bolt action? Take out the bolt, sight down the bore at the target and make it stay there, peek through the scope without moving the gun, The cross hairs should be on the target, if not, you are off to start. Setting up your rifle like this will put you on paper at 100 yards. Check it out.
Under the adjuster cap there should be a scale with an arrow marked up or right (depending on which one you are looking at. If it's not marked, place the gun in a vise (gently as not to crush it, cover metal parts with a towel)
Fire the gun while in the vise at a large sheet of paper several yards away (careful where the bullet goes...use bails of newspaper or plywood backing) Sight through the scope and move the cross-hairs 'till they are exactly on the bullet hole. After you have done that, keep increasing the distance and adjusting up to compensate for bullet drop till you reach your desired range. Side to side adjustments should only be minor. Before sighting in, make sure that the scope is securely mounted or any adjustments you make will be irrelevant. While sighting, always use a bench rest...shooting "off-hand" will never give you any degree of accuracy because everyone moves and shakes a bit.
First, adjust wind-age and elevation to center or zero position. Remove your scope from the gun and make sure that the scope mounts are aligned, this is critical. Purchase an alignment tool is necessary. Then remount the scope. The scope should seat in the mounts without binding. If it does bind, the mounts are not aligned.
Start sighting in at close range,10 to 30 yards, then move out to 100 yards.
Your finder is not aligned with your telescope. During the day time focus on a distant small object with the telescope-- then without moving the telescope adjust the crosshairs in the finder to match the telescope.
They are for sighting in the rifle only.I know on TV the shooter reaches up and turns a knob.BOGUS! after sighting in the rifle, always replace the little caps because the scope is not sealed unless the caps are on.without the caps, moisture can penetrate the scope and fog the lenses.Good Luck
Ja, it's 1/4 M.O.A, so at 25 yards/meter it'll be ca 3 inches. You may have gone in the wrong direction. That is, if it was 3' high, and you went another 3 higher then you'd be at the top of the paper. Probably you've got it figured out by now.
The easiest, fastest, cheapest way to zero is with a rifle rest you can clamp your scope into, or alternatively somehow immobilize your rifle some other way. You take a shot, at 25 yards or so. It makes a hole. You now immobilize the rifle, via your rest or heavy sandbags, with the scope pointing exactly where you aimed before. You now, carefully and without moving the rifle/scope off of the point of aim, dial your reticle to point at the actual bullet hole. Your next shot will be at your point of aim now. So you just put it at the right height above your point of aim at 100 yards now.