When I am done sighting in my scope and I have moved my inside dial to where I would like it to stay, what do I do with the outside ring? Does it need to line up with the arrow or dot from the inside part of the scope that I adjusted to sight in my scope?
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This happens a lot during bore sighting, - no shock to the scope to jar the cross hairs. So take your screwdriver and use the handle - rap the scope or better just tap it. Not hard enough to bend/dent it but jar it so things can move if need to.
Something is wrong with the mounts, they have to be loose or something. I can hit better than that with iron sights. Unless the internals of the scope are loose. You have it mounted in a sled? Is it bolt action? Take out the bolt, sight down the bore at the target and make it stay there, peek through the scope without moving the gun, The cross hairs should be on the target, if not, you are off to start. Setting up your rifle like this will put you on paper at 100 yards. Check it out.
Is the scope moving in the mounts? Going back and forth, left and right? If so, tighten up the screws, Or are the stadia wires themselves spinning around inside the scope? That could be a problem. The wires are fixed in a tube that is mounted at the rear, the front is at the adj screws, they push back and forth on a spring, the whole tube moves, but it is not supposed to spin. You can get to this part easy enough, but go no farther than the cross hairs. Find out what they are supposed to be attached to, or just send the whole thing back and complain. If you break the seal, they will never honor the warranty if there is one. Hope this helps.
Under the adjuster cap there should be a scale with an arrow marked up or right (depending on which one you are looking at. If it's not marked, place the gun in a vise (gently as not to crush it, cover metal parts with a towel)
Fire the gun while in the vise at a large sheet of paper several yards away (careful where the bullet goes...use bails of newspaper or plywood backing) Sight through the scope and move the cross-hairs 'till they are exactly on the bullet hole. After you have done that, keep increasing the distance and adjusting up to compensate for bullet drop till you reach your desired range. Side to side adjustments should only be minor. Before sighting in, make sure that the scope is securely mounted or any adjustments you make will be irrelevant. While sighting, always use a bench rest...shooting "off-hand" will never give you any degree of accuracy because everyone moves and shakes a bit.
You can get a base line by bore sighting the scope. Bore sight kits are a bit pricy, might be best to take it to a gun range an start at 15 yards shoot a few move out to 25 the 50 then 100. Yes your scope should be sighted for one gun one round, with a cold barrel. Let it cool between shots.
Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.
Clean barrel if it needs it.
For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..
Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.
Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.
If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.
If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.
First, adjust wind-age and elevation to center or zero position. Remove your scope from the gun and make sure that the scope mounts are aligned, this is critical. Purchase an alignment tool is necessary. Then remount the scope. The scope should seat in the mounts without binding. If it does bind, the mounts are not aligned.
Start sighting in at close range,10 to 30 yards, then move out to 100 yards.
They are for sighting in the rifle only.I know on TV the shooter reaches up and turns a knob.BOGUS! after sighting in the rifle, always replace the little caps because the scope is not sealed unless the caps are on.without the caps, moisture can penetrate the scope and fog the lenses.Good Luck
Ja, it's 1/4 M.O.A, so at 25 yards/meter it'll be ca 3 inches. You may have gone in the wrong direction. That is, if it was 3' high, and you went another 3 higher then you'd be at the top of the paper. Probably you've got it figured out by now.
The easiest, fastest, cheapest way to zero is with a rifle rest you can clamp your scope into, or alternatively somehow immobilize your rifle some other way. You take a shot, at 25 yards or so. It makes a hole. You now immobilize the rifle, via your rest or heavy sandbags, with the scope pointing exactly where you aimed before. You now, carefully and without moving the rifle/scope off of the point of aim, dial your reticle to point at the actual bullet hole. Your next shot will be at your point of aim now. So you just put it at the right height above your point of aim at 100 yards now.