This has been a tough one to nail down. I've had a dozen or so standard water tests and they all come back good, so I'm thinking the green is coming from electolysis. I'm on a well with the main waater feeder being thick poly pipe coming form the well terminating on a brass fitting. The house is copper piping. I have two large pressure tanks with a Franklin Electric 281074915 controller (230volt, single phase). I have a ground wire coming from the main panel to the entry point of the main poly pipe. I've checked the house from one end to the other and I don't see any dissimilar metals touching the copper, but I do have a section of the copper ground wire running to the stell pipe that brings in propane for the gas stove. I've also had two different electricians spending considerable time to find nothing out of the ordinary. The only thing I've found out of place is on the Franklin Electric controller. On L1 is the white wire running to the pressure tank, L2 is the black wire to the pressure tank, R is the red wire to the well pump, Y is the white wire to the pump, and B is the black wire to the pump.
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Re: Green in the shower, sinks, and toilets
I don’t think the green is Electrolysis, I think it is algae.
Do you see yourelectric bill going up? If not, then it is algae.
Did you have the water tested for algae?There are dozen or so different type of algae.
Do you have any of the pipe running above ground ? Most likely the algae is in the Poly pipe. Not the copper.
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You have what is called water hammer effect going on the water pressure is to high this can cause problems with all you plumbing fixtures. You need to have a water hammer arestor install or put a main line pressure reducing valve in.
Check the water supply lines to the shower at the faucet handles. If the fitting for the hot water line connected to the handle is loose, it can twist and kink off the water supply further down the line when you turn the faucet handle. I'm not exactly sure how this could be relevant otherwise, but under normal design circumstances this type of scenario with your shower wouldn't matter for other faucets.
When shower faucet apart make sure hot is getting 2 & coming out faucet ***. did you turn off stop integral w/ faucet or outgoing shut off valve on water heater.. May have rust or lime in small orifice leading to faucet ***. does your balancer/ piston move freely..good luck..
Hi kwbaker! Assuming the cartridge is new and the water drips at both hot and cold settings, I would check your shower head. It is not uncommon for debris to collect in the screening there and clog the spray nozzle.
To check the shower head you'll need to remove it from its piping. Use two tools--I normally use an adjustable wrench and a strap wrench--to hold the wall pipe and simultaneaously turn the shower head counter-clockwise. The cresecent wrench grabs the hex-head of the shower head, while the strap wrench holds the chromed piping without scratching it.
Be sure you don't lose the rubber washer inside the pipe-to-shower head connection!
Once the head is removed, look inside it at the pipe side. You should be able to see into the mechanicals of the shower head--very often I'll see bits of rust or scale. Oftentimes its enough to rinse the pipe side of the head under a sink; in extreme situations it can be easier to replace the entire shower head.
To replace the shower head, use two tools in the same manner in which the head was removed: crescent wrench to turn the shower head, strap wrench to hold supply piping. This time, however, turn the shower head clockwise until it tightens snug.
This is a common problem with this type of shower mixer valve. They are not very good at regulating with pressure change. Your options are somewhat limited to not flushing the toilet or using any other taps when in use, repalce the mixer valve for a modern ceramic unit or installing a 2 vane hot & cold shower pump.
buught sink taps same problem do they have flexy conectors with them. my problem was as they are american hot @ cold water suply are maines fed so hole in bottom of taps [or in flexy pipes are too small
hi as you are probably aware ,when the toilet is flushed the water pressure to the shower is reduced so you get hot/scalding water unfortunatly there is NO easy solution you could put a needle valve in the supply to the toilet and with trial and error by turning the valve down reach a compromise between the time it takes to fill the flushing tank and the shower temp the only real solution is to feed the toilet and shower off independent supplies but in most houses this is impractical if not impossible silk090
Start by removing the spray head from the hose. Pull the spray head out and with a channel lock pliers unthread connection between the spray head and hose. BE CAREFUL not to let the hose fall back down into the faucet. With the hose directed down toward the sink test for volume by turning on the faucet. If you get a nice volume the problem is in the spray head. This is usually the case. Put the spray head back on then remove the aerator. It's the screen where the water comes out of the spray head. Clean out the assembly ( 3-4 parts). Reassemble and test.