Question about Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side Refrigerator

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REFRIGERATOR IS WARM

I HAVE A KENMORE REFRIGERATOR MOD.61284100 IT WAS WORK FINE , BUT THISMORNING GO WARM, WORKS THE FREEZER FAN AND COMPRESSOR. I THING IS TECAPACITOR BUT I DON NO HOW CHANGE IT . THANKS FOR HELP ME

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  • viento86 Nov 15, 2008

    MY REFRIGERATOR KENMORE MOD 61284100 GOES WARM AND THE FREEZER DON'T BE FROZEN ANYMORE. IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME HOW I CAN CHANGE THE RELAY START CAPACITOR COMBINATION. I HAVE ON E BRAND SUPCO MOD RCO410,

  • viento86 Nov 15, 2008

    HOW CAN CHANGE DE 3-1 STAR RELAY OVERLOAD CAPACITOR IT HAVE 5 WIRES I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO JOIN THE WIRES( WHITE,BLACK,RED, 2 POWER)

  • viento86 Nov 15, 2008

    I STILL NED TO KNOW HOW I CAN INSTAL 3-1 RELAY OVERLOAD START SELENOID IN MY KENMORE REFRIGERATOR

  • viento86 Nov 15, 2008

    I CHECK THE COMPRESOR BUT IT DON'T WORKING ,ONLY THE FAN BE LEFT SIDE , I THINK I NET TO REPLACE THE RELAY AND THE SELENOID, BUT I DON'T NO HOW.

  • viento86 Nov 16, 2008

    DID THE CHANGE THE 3-1RELY,START ,CAPACITOR I CHANGE WIRE TO WIRE BUT STILL THE COMPRESOR DOSN'T WORKS. QUE I CONECT THE 3 RED WIRES THE FAN STOP,IF I REMORE ONE RED THE FAN WORKS BUT THE COMPRESOR STILL DOSN'T WORKS.. SORRY I LERNING ENGLISH

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9 Answers

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Does the fan and the compressor also switch off intermittently?

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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You might have a short in the compressor that is causing it not to come on to stop the whole fridge from catching fire. You may need a new compressor. You will need to get it checked by a professional to make sure that is the problem and to get it fixed.

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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Hello viento,
to answer your question,  open the bottom back cover of the fridge. the big black round thing is the compressor. at its side is the relay and overload.
remove one by one the wires that you are taking and label them correctly.
then you will be able to get to the capacitor as well.
get all the parts and bring it to a refrigeration parts store and buy then and replace them as you wish.

tnx 4 using fixya,
Drcool

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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Before testing the interlock switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The interlock switch prevents various components from functioning when the door is open. For example, an automatic ice through the door dispenser should not operate when the door is open. If it did, the ice would spill onto the floor. If this switch malfunctions, it can cause improper function by either disabling features or failing to safeguard against their use when the door is open.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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  • fixyy Nov 15, 2008

    http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance...



    for further instructions click this link and follow the steps.

  • fixyy Nov 15, 2008

    http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator...



    also check out this above link.

  • fixyy Nov 15, 2008

    Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.

    Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called a yoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....

    - clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal

    - check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch

    - If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal

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A problem such as less one can vary well be a couple of things causing this. First you need to determine if the evaporator coil is frosted badly or if it has ice and frost in it. Ice forms for a deferent reason than frostdoes. If there is ice formed on the evaporator then the defrost circuit is probably working ok. If there is only frost buildup then I would say that some component of the defrost system has failed. If there is no ice or frost on the evaporator then we have to look at the compressor and condenser. Make sure that the condenser is clear of all dust and dirt. The condenser fan circulates air across the condenser to cool it and the compressor. If the compressor overheats, it will shut itself off untill it cools and then start again and runn untill it gets hot again and shut off. You can hear a clicking sound and a humming sound. Listen for the compressor to start or try to start. If it cannot start then it could be a damaged compressor. If it will not start then I would replace the start relay and capacitor and try again to get it to start. If after this then the compressor is probably the problem. If the compressor is running and the eveaporator fan is running, the condensor fan is running and condensor is not plugged up with dust and dirt and it still isn`t cooling. Then the problem may be it low or out of refrigerant due to a leak in the sealed system. To check this, feel the compressor. If it is only warm and running this could be that it is too low on refrigerant and is not doing any work. A compressor will not get hot if it isn`t doing any work. Unplug the frig. Emidiately plug it back in. If it starts right back up then it is too low or out of refrigerant due to a leak in the sealed system. This will reqiure a cirtified technician to fined the leak, seal it and recharge the system A system with the correct amount of refrigerant will not start right back up due to head pressure. Check all of these things and you should be able to determine where the problem is. I would not change anything before checking these thing first. If I can help you any farther, please let me know.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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  • Charles Caldwell Nov 15, 2008

    In reading your new comment or quistion, I am not sure of your configuration for the compressor so I have included a web page that I think will help you. Let me know if this helps you or if I can help you any farther. The web page is

    https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiri...

    If you type it in exacxtly the way I have it you should go to a page that will show you tha wireing diagram for your compressor and start relay, capacitor and overload.

  • Charles Caldwell Nov 15, 2008
  • Charles Caldwell Nov 15, 2008

    i think what you want to know is what the black wire is, white wire is and what the red wire is.

    Red is the run that gets connected to the run terminal

    Black is the common and is connected to the common terminal

    White is the start and gets connected to the start terminal

    The other two wire are the power

    I hope this what you wanted. I am sorry for the confusion.

  • Charles Caldwell Nov 16, 2008

    That is ok. Let me check and see if the hard start kit is installed correctly.

    Remove the old start relay and capacitor completely and set it aside.

    Next. on the hard start capacitor there will be 5 wires.

    On the side of the compressor there are three pins. there may be a diagram on the side of the compressor to tell you what each pin is for.

    They may even be marked on the compressor right by the pin itself.

    The red wire should be connected to the start pin. Maybe marked with a S

    The wht wire should be connected to the run pin. Maybe marked with a R

    The black wire should be connected to the common pin. Maybe marked with a C

    The other two wires are to be connected to the power going to the compressor.

    If this does not work then you have other problems, that i suspected.

    check this and let me know what happens

  • Charles Caldwell Nov 16, 2008

    I`m sorry the wht wire is thestart wire and the red wire is the run wire. I`m sorry.

  • Charles Caldwell Nov 16, 2008

    If the compressor does not work after connecting the hard start kit correctly, then the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced by a cirtified technician.

  • Charles Caldwell Nov 28, 2008

    It has been several days (11/16) since your last post. There have been several explianations and possible fixes for your appliance. Will you please rate someones answer, or at least ask for more help, and we will help you untill you are satisfied.We are here to help you. Please help us help you.

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Hi,

Dont change any capacitor yet. Lets begin with the basic procedure in repairing refrigerator. If it doest cool, check the freon gas it might be empty. Refill refrigerant gas... Post if you have other question. Please dont rate me if unsatisfied with my suggestions. Thank you for using fixya...

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • amin dianalan
    amin dianalan Nov 15, 2008

    Have you tried to switch it off? Unplug it for 30minutes, freon gas running in compressor might freezes.Thank you...

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Check to see if the gas cylinder or pipes are not leaking, it could also be the thermostat which is defective

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 15, 2008

    also check the magnetic seals around the door, if they are dirty clean them

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This sounds like a freeze up.  There are several causes of this  many centered around humidity or low refrigerant gas.  Humidity is caused by leaving the door open or by leaving damp items in the box which cause ice to build up.  Old gaskets which don't seal well are also a problem.
First, defrost the unit completely.  I recommend a hair dryer to warm up the ice and remove it.  The ice is blocking the air channels inside the unit.  This takes several hours to accomplish.  Leave unit open to let components dry out.  Be aware that hair dryers and wet conditions are dangerous together.
Check and make sure the condenser unit under the box is clean and that air can circulate.  This is essential.
Once the unit is dried out, restart it.  Be aware that items placed over air channel holes will block them and cause a repeat of the condition.  Cooldown takes up to 24 hours.
If you want to check on refrigerant gas, gain access to the compressor so you can see what's going on.  Remove the back lower panel,  The unit must be off for at least an hour.  Start it.  On the larger pipe, you should see frost forming.  If the frost goes away after 15 minutes and the pipe either has ice, water or is dry, the unit is fine.  If the frost remains, get a service man to determine how much gas is in the unit and to recharge it.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • Robert Hirst Nov 15, 2008

    I'm not sure why you are part changing.  If you have not removed any of the parts you talk about...don't.  They will not help your problem if the compressor is starting and running.  Generally, there are diagrams on the back of the unit with all of the wiring pin outs.  They are often just inside the compressor area or in a sleeve on the unit.  If you can't find them, you may need to purchase a manual for this unit or the comparable Whirlpool unit.

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Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • Ekse Nov 15, 2008

    f the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

    First, answer these questions:



    • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



    • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


    Next, see if the compressor motor is running

    The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

    If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:



    • The compressor



    • The Thermostat



    • The overload, relay, or capacitor



    • The defrost timer



    • The condenser fan motor



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