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A/c water leak

I have a constant leak from my a/c unit. I sucked out the condensation line, cleaned remaining water from pan, poured a cap of bleach every air filter change, and after three days my air filter is wet on top and on the corners. What else to do when the unit still blows cold air?

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If the line and pan keep filling with water the line has to be pluged futher down the line

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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I can't find a drip pan or a hose where I pour bleach in to keep clean


Sounds like Condensate from AC unit in attic backed up. If no clean out cut in one

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How do I access the evaporator drain line?


Hook a Wet/Dry vac (with the filter removed) to the outside drain line. This will allow you to suck the drain line clean and remove any water/algae/debris from the line. As a maintenance item, you may want to pour 1/2 c of household bleach into the drain line downstream of the drip pan to minimize the future growth of algae. Do both of these items yearly to keep problems from recurring.www.lightdeal.co.uk

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I have a RHEEM RHQA 1010B a/c unit that is pouring water out of the bottom....please help find cause and solution. PS it is very humid where I live!!!


Hello, usually water will leak from a furnace if the condensate line is clogged, or the condensate pan is cracked. If you have a shop vac try to hook it up to the outlet of the drain line and use the suction pressure to remove the sludge that is clogging it up. If the drain line appears to be clean the most likey the condensate pan is cracked or rusted and causing the leak.

Jul 13, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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Our A/C unit is leaking between the inside unit and the heating unit. We've had two repairmen out. Both seemed confident that the lines were clogged and both blew them out. The a/c is still leaking. It...


Could be the pan under the evaporator has holes in it. Did the technicians pull the coil to check for holes in the pan? At the very least, after blowing out the condensate lines they should have poured water into the pan to check for proper drainage and to ensure there were no leaks in the evaporator's drain pan.

It could also be an issue with not having a trap installed in the condensate line. On some sytems that have the condensate line and evaporator coil on the suction side of the fan, no trap installed will allow the water to be sucked back into the pan and eventually may cause the water to spill over the pan. Having the trap installed insures the water will drain properly. It could also be an improperly installed trap that allows air leakage. To give you an example, if the condensate comes off the pan and goes to a tee (used often as a port for blowing or cleaning out the line) and the tee is not capped off when not being used for cleaning purposes, this will allow air to be sucked back through the tee and prevents the water from flowing through the tee and onto the trap.25011e4.png You were correct in not running the unit as water can drip down into a fan motor below the pan and cause it to short out.

One other issue that comes up from time to time is the inability for water (condensate) to drain or trickle down the face of the evaporator coil. This is usually due to dirt blocking the fins of the coil and the condensate accumulates on other portions of the coil and when it hits the blockages of dirt or other debris, it doesn't perform its usual capillary action and follow the fins down into the drain pan, but instead stops, accumulates and then falls straight down into the lower sections. Check the coil's fin surfaces for dirt or other debris. If present, have the coil cleaned.

Sep 03, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

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9,000 btu invertor system & 12,000 btu system dripping water from evaporator case,evaporator very clean,suction line not freezing up,just sweating as it should,condensor fan running good,is there a...


The condensate line attaches to the back of the indoor unit. Usually the flex drain line that comes with the unit clogs with algae. You've got to remove the line and flush it with compressed air or nitrogen and then pour about a cup of clorox bleach down the line to inhibit further growth. Use the clorox twice a year to prevent this from happening again.

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I have a unit in the attic that is installed in the attic horizontally. The condensation leaks out the unit into the overflow pan. I have had the drip pan replaced as it was cracked, the overflow line...


It sounds like to me that the leak is coming from inside the unit(air handler) possibly your evaporator coil is icing up and causing a build up of water just below where the 3/4" P.V.C. drain line connects. Instead of draining out the line, it is finding its way out of the unit else where. I have seen this many times. It sounds like you have done everything that I would have done, but take a look at the bottom of the evaporator pan and I bet that it also is starting to rust out.If the new overflow pan is not leaking, and the condensate line is leak free, it has to be leaking from the evap pan inside the unit.That's why you have the overflow pan in the 1st place to prevent ceiling damage as I am sure you know. I hope I have been of some help to you, please let me know what you find.

Sincerely, Shastalaker7

Nov 01, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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Water leaks in the house from under the unit.There is a drain pipe that leads to the outside but we dont know if that pipe gets clogged or needs service.


Open up the inside unit pannel where the drain pipe is and you'll see a drain pan where the condensation water runs out to the drain , clean the drain pan and the hole and then with air pressure from an air compressor blow the drain from inside to outside and go outside the house where the drain discharged and you'll see the clogh that came out from the drain . To keep the drain clean , pour a cup of bleach or clorox every 3 or 4 months through the drain and in the drain pan.

Oct 16, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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We have RUUD AC, in second floor , that has a white pvc ope connected to condensate drain. other end of this pipe is inerted into large pipe neanr wall. looks a drain outlet. In the middle of this white...


Hello, W/D here.

There are a couple of things you need to check:
Look at where the drain connects to the A/C unit. There should be another pvc line right next to where the drain connects. This is the clean out/flush line, and is used for adding algeside to the tray internally, which thens go out the drain. Most importantly, there is a 1/8" hole between them, and usually, it's very hard to see. Make sure that this hole is open. If it is plugged, the condensate cannot drain from the unit while the unit is running and will create havoc with your drain system. The 'tee in the drain line is an air vent/vacuum breaker and can be used for a cleanout, but try the little vent hole trick first. Your drain line from the unit should be sloped to your house drain. If you do not have a clean out connection at your unit, then you can clean from the tee to the wall. Put one cup of white vinegar into the tee. It will work as well as bleach, without the corrosiveness of the bleach. If you have a cleanout on the unit, put the vinegar in there, and restart the unit, as the vinegar needs to get flushed by the condensate.
Your tray is designed to catch any leakage, and should drain to the outside. Look for your drain line and clear it. Tray drains generally plug at the ends, and not usually in the middle. You can clean the pan drain with a piece of stiff wire. I like to use electrical solid core wire, #12. Pass it dowh the drain from the pan, and back up the drain from the outside. Chase it with water. Usually the pluggage is either insulation, or dirt dobbers.
Best wishes and regards, W/D

Aug 17, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Water dripping out of freezer into bottom of refrigator


It is normal for water to run from the freezer to the bottom of the refrigerator during the automatic defrost cycle. But it is supposed to run into a catch pan and be evaporated by the hot air being pulled over it by the small evaporator fan on the bottom of the unit.

If water is not going into the catch pan, and instead is running out of the evaporator down the side of the liner, it will most likely end up on the floor instead of in the catch pan. If this is the case, drain your line could be stopped up with an accumulation of algae. To clean it out, find the drain plug in your freezer and pour a cup of diluted bleach into it. Pour it very slowly, because if the line is completely stopped up, it will not seep out and thus cannot get to the point of blockage.

If the drain is completely blocked, try using a can of compressed air (like is used to blow off computers and such), forming as tight a seal as you can between the air tube and the drain. If this fails, it might be time to call the repairman.

There is one more thing that might give the appearance of water 'leaking' and that is if the condenser fan is not properly pulling air over the drain pan to dry up the water from a self-defrost cycle (which normally occurs every 24 hrs). In this case, cooling will also be severely affected, since insufficient air flow over the condenser coils will make the condenser far less efficient.

Finally, and maybe you shoud try this first if you're sure the drain line is not stopped up: CLEAN THE BOTTOM COILS of dirt and lint accumulation. I can't tell you how many refrigerators I've worked on that needed nothing more than to have the condenser coils in the bottom of the unit cleaned. Restricted air flow over these coils is THE number one cause of refrigerator inefficiency or failure. By a HUGE margin.

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1 Answer

Condensation forms on the top inner ceiling of the refrigerator


Very common problem I have repaired many times , The drain is frozen or plugged.
remove the back panel in the freezer section to get to the evap./cooling coil , then check the pan under it , there is a small 1" drain hole at the bottom that may have ice in it or its clogged with something else.
Use hair dryer or similar to remove ice then get a wire or something similar that is firm to use to snake out and clear that drain hole you want to get about 10 inches down into it.
Pour bleach into evap pan and let it sit for a bit. [10 minutes]
Then to know its cleared well pour a cup of water into the evap pan then check the pan under the unit at bottom behind kickplate to ensure the bleach and water has made it to this pan.
If unit is now draining here , wipe remaining water off top of ref. compartment and by the next day it will usually stop.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Phil

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