Cuts in between on higher volumes & higher bass levels
I had been using these Z-340 speakers for more than 2 years & they worked great in the past at all volume & bass levels till recently. Now when turned up little bit of volume or bass it cuts off in between & also there is hissing sound from the volume controller satellite speaker. Also the bass has to kept minimum all the time or its starts cracking. This problem is more & more significant with the songs with thumping beats. In an earlier report someone mentioned this problem & the solution was given as repairing the volume switch. It was suggsted that the speaker should be opened & the lead connecting the volume switch & the board to be pumped out. I tried this but left it like that as I didn't understand the meaning of pumping out the lead this somehow doesn't make any sense to me. The solution was very shortly explained & looks superficial. I look forward that someone can solve this & prolong the the life of my Logitech Z-340.
Re: Cuts in between on higher volumes & higher bass...
If you would feel like doing the repair, it can be done if you are somewhat handy with tools & such. Since the speaker unit inside has push-on connectors, no soldering is required.
When repairing mine, I searched a lot before I found a suitable replacement unit that closely matched the characteristics of the original. I found it here: http://www.rpelectronics.com/d03-0004-4-speaker-paper-cone-4-ohm.html Note that the mounting is different than the original but it will work. It will just need to be mounted on the other side of the panel (but same orientation), and will need some sort of gasket material between it and the panel. I used foam tape.
Step by step: - Pry out the wire grille from the surrounding bezel (plastic) so you can get at the screws. - Remove the 6 screws holding the bezel in place & take it off. You will then see that this is not the speaker but what is called a "passive radiator". - Turn the unit over and remove the 10 screws holding the control panel in place and carefully take it out being careful no to stress any of the attached wires. There are no connectors on these wires so they can't be disconnected. now you will be able to get at both sides of the speaker unit. There are screws going through the panel to nuts & washers holding the unit to the panel. - Carefully pull the connecting wires from the speaker unit, taking note of which wire goes to which terminal. Note that one terminal is wider than the other.. - Remove the nuts from the screws securing the unit to the panel. You'll probably need to use a screwdriver on the screws to hold them while unscrewing the nuts. The is one flat washer and one lockwasher on each of the four screws. - Now you will be able to remove the speaker unit. - Prepare your gasket for the new unit (could even be cardboard from a cereal box or such). - Mount new unit the other side of the panel from the original but facing same direction as original, placing gasket between unit and panel. - Put screws through from the other side and secure the unit with the washers and nuts. Do not completely tighten the nuts at this time. - Carefully center the speaker in its opening and then tighten the nuts fully. - Push the speaker wire connectors on the terminals on the speaker. - Reassemble the unit in the reverse order of disassembly. Connect up to system and enjoy!
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Hello.... sorry to hear about your problem. Bass is the ultimate evil of coaxial speakers. You have a couple of options here, and this is just my professional opinion because I do not know what your lifestyle details, such as truck space needs, type of music you listen to, budget, etc. If you are looking for alot of bass, the best bet would be to use 2 external amplifiers, 1 for the interior speakers, and 1 for a subwoofer. You would then need to purchase an electronic crossover. With this setup, you can remove all of the low frequencies from the coaxial speakers and put them where they belong, with the sub. You will gain EXCEPTIONAL clarity and a very high volume before distortion level. Again it will depend on what your budget is and if you are willing to compromise on some cab space. The only other option you have at this point is if you are wanting to play your music at high volume levels, you will just need to reduce the bass level as you increase volume. I hope this has helped. Good luck with your venture!!
First off, change the front speakers with a decent pair of aftermarket. Buy a powered subwoofer. One that has the amp built in. Connect it to the rear speakers. Bazooka tubes are great, compact, great bass.Adjust your radio so that the front speakers do not recieve alot of bass,you want it about half way. That way you are using all the power to push high notes, Bass takes a lot of power to push, reducing the volume. Turn the subwoofer to the maximum setting, and then adjust the system to your liking. It will take some time, but it is worth it in the end. Tip: set it while listening to your favorite station. Stations broadcast at different sound levels. Some pump up the bass, some don't.
I don't think either, I believe your running theamp load too low with too low an ohm speakers and this cases the amp to produce more power but not stable and it overheats and the thermal protection cuts the amp off when the temp gets too hot to prevent damage.. Make sure your speakers depending on how they are wired do not exceed the amps load rating
Your setup sounds great. I had to settle for Blaupunkt in my Mercedes.
It sounds like the culprit is your enclosure. It's possible that by tweaking the settings, you could improve the sound somewhat, but having been used to the sound of a sealed enclosure, maybe not. Sealed enclosures tend to produce tighter, more accurate bass and have a flatter frequency response curve. They are also generally the enclosure of choice when looking for a SQ (sound quality) oriented setup.
Ported enclosures will produce louder bass than sealed enclosures, and maybe that's why some audio guys push them. They also allow the speaker to operate more efficiently, so you need less amp power for a given volume. Higher tuning on a ported box will get louder, but at the expense of sound quality. Lower tuning will still get louder than a sealed box, and the sound quality will be better than a box tuned higher, but still not as good as sealed. That's what I meant about tweaking the settings. You may see some improvement by setting the crossover lower, decreasing bass boost, or by turning the subsonic filter on/off. I'm no audiophile, but personally I've never been able to stand the sound of a ported enclosure, however it was tuned. Sealed just sounds better.
The level control controls the input level coming from your head unit (receiver) to the amp.
Your Sony users manual is a little vague on how to best adjust the level and other controls.
Here is one method that some installers use and works well with most amps.
Most 10" subs sound best between about 80-100hz and below, so start out by setting the LPF at about 80hz. The HPF will not be used. Next turn the bass boost and gain all the way down. Turn on the radio and set all tone controls, bass, midrange, treble to flat, usually "0" on most head units. Turn the volume up to approximately 3/4 volume level or just until you begin to hear distortion. Now, back the volume down until the distortion is gone. Next turn up the gain control on the amp until you hear the subs start to distort then back the gain down until the distortion disappears. Next turn the bass boost up again until the subs begin to distort, then either back the bass boost down or back the gain down until the distortion is gone. You may need to play around with the bass boost and gain controls to get exactly the sound you prefer.
You dont have to crank up the volume to hear the bass man. It sounds like you have a bad connection some where. check all your connections and also if the wires are shinning and not dull at the connection point. having carbon or dust there will not help.