Question about Logitech Z-340 Computer Speakers

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Cuts in between on higher volumes & higher bass levels

Hello

I had been using these Z-340 speakers for more than 2 years & they worked great in the past at all volume & bass levels till recently.
Now when turned up little bit of volume or bass it cuts off in between & also there is hissing sound from the volume controller satellite speaker. Also the bass has to kept minimum all the time or its starts cracking.
This problem is more & more significant with the songs with thumping beats.
In an earlier report someone mentioned this problem & the solution was given as repairing the volume switch. It was suggsted that the speaker should be opened & the lead connecting the volume switch & the board to be pumped out. I tried this but left it like that as I didn't understand the meaning of pumping out the lead this somehow doesn't make any sense to me. The solution was very shortly explained & looks superficial.
I look forward that someone can solve this & prolong the the life of my Logitech Z-340.

Thank You
Salilvn

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If you would feel like doing the repair, it can be done if you are somewhat handy with tools & such. Since the speaker unit inside has push-on connectors, no soldering is required.

When repairing mine, I searched a lot before I found a suitable replacement unit that closely matched the characteristics of the original. I found it here: http://www.rpelectronics.com/d03-0004-4-speaker-paper-cone-4-ohm.html Note that the mounting is different than the original but it will work. It will just need to be mounted on the other side of the panel (but same orientation), and will need some sort of gasket material between it and the panel. I used foam tape.

Step by step:
- Pry out the wire grille from the surrounding bezel (plastic) so you can get at the screws.
- Remove the 6 screws holding the bezel in place & take it off. You will then see that this is not the speaker but what is called a "passive radiator".
- Turn the unit over and remove the 10 screws holding the control panel in place and carefully take it out being careful no to stress any of the attached wires. There are no connectors on these wires so they can't be disconnected. now you will be able to get at both sides of the speaker unit. There are screws going through the panel to nuts & washers holding the unit to the panel.
- Carefully pull the connecting wires from the speaker unit, taking note of which wire goes to which terminal. Note that one terminal is wider than the other..
- Remove the nuts from the screws securing the unit to the panel. You'll probably need to use a screwdriver on the screws to hold them while unscrewing the nuts. The is one flat washer and one lockwasher on each of the four screws.
- Now you will be able to remove the speaker unit.
- Prepare your gasket for the new unit (could even be cardboard from a cereal box or such).
- Mount new unit the other side of the panel from the original but facing same direction as original, placing gasket between unit and panel.
- Put screws through from the other side and secure the unit with the washers and nuts. Do not completely tighten the nuts at this time.
- Carefully center the speaker in its opening and then tighten the nuts fully.
- Push the speaker wire connectors on the terminals on the speaker.
- Reassemble the unit in the reverse order of disassembly.
Connect up to system and enjoy!

Posted on Apr 14, 2013

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Sounds like the subwoofer speaker is broken. Opening the subwoofer is difficult, and frankly the effort is not worth it, as the quality of this system is very poor.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

  • Ken Moren
    Ken Moren Apr 14, 2013

    I thought mine was worth repairing ;-) The sound was decent for the price point and it had this innovative bass-pump & passive radiator system to deliver better bass than otherwise possible with that size of driver & enclosure. The durability of the driver was not great though. the replacement I used was better in that respect.

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