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On the oven, it is usually attached to the back center of the burner under the over floor which can usually be removed. If you are asking about the top burners, the spark tip is right next to each top burner. The spark module that supplies the spark is usually on the range back, sometimes in the control panel area or just below it under a cover plate or box. Most ovens these days use a glow bar ignitor for the oven that glows red hot the complete time the oven burner is on. Looks like black ceramic and is very brittle if hit too hard.
This model should have pilotless electronic ignition.If you hear clicking when you light the burners , it is electronic,. Also , open broiler drawer and turn on oven .After a few seconds do you see a glow start?Thats your electronic oven igniter confirming you have no pilot.
If your oven is older or you live near the water check if there is a build up of fine rust over the burners. A fine wire brush lightly run over the top of the burners may be your solution. Before you attempt this disconnect electrical power and turn off the gas supply. If you are mechanical remove the front lower cover by opening the doors, removing the two screws located in the top of the lower cover next to the door hinges. The cover will remove to the front. Next remove the screws holding the shield in fromt of the burners. A long handled fine wire brush will allow you to brush the top of the burners. If there is a film of fine rust it will not be apparent when looking. After careful reinstallation of the burner shield and ensuring there is a safe area away from the exposed electrical connections for you. Reconnect electrical power and gas to the oven temporarily. This will alow the unit to be operated enableing you to look past the pilot flame to see if the burner flames are even across the burners. Disconnect electric and gas supply from the unit prior toiInstalling lower cover. After complete reassembly reconnect power and gas and enjoy.
You need to replace the burner if you want blue flame. Since its 10 years old, it's about time to replace the burner with similar size and shape. Old burner have big hole causing yellowish flame compare to new one. I hope I solve your problem.
This seems like a pressure regulator / flow problem. If you are running more than one appliance from bottled gas this can occurr if the supply pipe is not of sufficient size. When 'wafting the door' you are increasing air flow to the oven burners which in turn will consume more gas to balance the burn, this starves other burners that are running at the time. Cure; increase regulator pressure (remove the foil cover to expose the screw) with the top burners alight adjust the screw 1/4 turn at a time until the flames are bright blue at heart and organge tipped. Increase as much as you can without the falme distorting away from blue/orange. If this doesn't cure it you may need to increase the size of your supply pipe to 15mm so that the volume of gas is greater and then split it off to normal lpg pipe to each apliance thereby creating a more even flow of supply. Often a system using say heating and gas fire is perfectly fine but add another appliance like a cooker or change your cooker to one which has more powerful burners and you can expose weaknesses in the flow system.
If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have apilot light system or a glow bar system. Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner. The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening: The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame. The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve. But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat. If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere. One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities: There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it. Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode. Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking. The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com This will help. Thanks please keep
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If the burner pressure is adjustable(some are not) you can use a small adjustable wrench to turn the gas orfice to lower the gas pressure. The orfice is usually located in the broiler/storage comaprtment at the very bottom of the range. It is the brass piece that goes into the burner venturri and is where the gas comes out. If your turn it clockwise it will decrease pressure & counter clockwise will increase pressure. If the flames are coming into the burner compartment that is quite an increase in pressure!!! Make sure the the range did not have the gas regulator removed. If it was then that would explain why the oven burner pressure is so high.
Sandwich, is it your bake or broil thats not working? You have two ignitors, one for bake and broil. One of them is your culprit. This is not a hard job. The post header says broil not working so the part number for that is WB13K0003. Bake ignitor is WB13K0004. To get at the bake ignitor you have to remove the oven bottom inside panel, remove the flame spreader (both easy). The click you are hearing is the board relay sending power to the ignitor. The ignitor has to draw so many amps to open the gas valve. The oven is pilotless. Catriver..post back.