From the capacitor there is a black wire and brown wire that I assume are speed control wires. The motor has a yellow/green wire (ground I think) a black wire (hot) a blue wire and a brown wire. From the power source there is a green wire, white wire and black wire. I have figured out the brown of the capacitor goes to the brown of the motor, the green/yellow wires connect together. Now I have the blue wire, and black wire, of the motor and the black wire and white wire of the power source. Does the black from the capacitor connect with the black of the motor and the black of the power source? That leaves the white in the power source and the blue from the motor. Do they connect?
A capacitor is typically inline with your power source and stores a large amount of power to supply bursts of power when heavy draws occur. it sits between the source and the motor so you should have the (source - capcitor - motor) hot wires all conecting at the same place. The other wire on the capacitor should be the ground (if they have +/- markings use the negative as the ground).
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Likely the black was used as a neutral and the reds were 240 volts.
You need to investigate at your panel. If you see the black going to the neutral bar, abandon it by capping with wire nut. If you see both the reds going to adjacent terminals on a double breaker, connect one red to the red and the other red to the black of the cooktop,
Are you sure that is the proper wire from the wall? What you are describing is a 110 volt circuit. THis cooktop should be connected with at least #10 wire and fused at 30 amps. You should have black red and at least white with possible bare ground wire. Assuming somebody used the wrong wire during original install job, you have it connected right. Please replace with heavier wire if it is not #10 Or at least make sure it is fused at no more than 20 amps if smaller wire. (You may sometimes blow circuit breaker if all burners are used on high at once) Use a volt meter and check voltage. If this is a 220 volt circuit you should have 220 volts between black and white and 110 volts from either one to bare ground wire.
The wiring diagram is pasted on the inside of the panel you remove to get to the wiring. If no wiring diagram The blower operates on 110 volts not 220 So the wire goes from one of the hot sides (Black or red) to the switch controlling the fan to the motor , from the motor to the neutral (white/Bare) wire terminal. Pilot light for fan is attached to the same wires as the motor. If you don't know what you are doing disconnect all wires from the burner switches to the fan motor. This will mean you have to switxh on the fan yourself whenever you need it.
Thios induction hob (Electrolux) has 4 wires - Y/G, brown. blue and black.
The Y/G is obviously the Earth conductor, and I would assume normality says that
Brown is the live conductor and Blue the neutral conductor.
The quandry is whether or not to disconnect the black wire completely, as this appears to have no function in a domestic wiring circuit.
You do need a 208/240 volt supply from your service panel. The green is ground, white is nuetral, and the red and black should measure 120 volts each to ground or 240/208 between each other. It is normal for most breaker panels to supply 208/240 between adjacent insulators. If you are only getting 1/2 of that then the circuit breaker may not be straddling the insulator bar but be 1/2 notch out and both breaker pins contacting the same 110 supply.