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Dryer not drying but element is good how do I test the high limit and cut off regulator

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The following link should provide you with the information you need to diagnose your problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Read the bottom of the link first. Verify your voltage at the receptacle. If you are missing part of the 220VAC service, the dryer will still run, but the heating circuits will not operate. That is because the drive motor only utlizes 120VAC to run, while the heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC. This is a common problem that appears as a dryer malfunction when it is not. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, then I would assume you have an internal component failure.

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper dryer ventilation. Make sure all your ducting is clear and free of clogs and the vent hoses are not kinked. If you don't, and you replace any failed components, those same components will fail again with a dryer left in a condition where it has improper air flow.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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Check your breaker to make sure half of it isnt popped. Your dryer will run off 110 but not heat. But also check your fuse in the dryer. That is most likely your problem.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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2 Answers

Dryer runs but doesn't heat.


The high and Low thermostatic limit switches must be in working order for the heating element to get power to operate. High limit opens in the event of a overheat condition to cut off the heating element. The low limit cuts on and off to control normal operation of the heating element for a more or less constant heat for drying.

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Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer still runs it just isn't getting warm


The heating element is wired in series with a thermal cut-off and a high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing.The thermal cut-off blows open when the high-limit thermostat fails to cycle off in order to regulate the heating element temperature. When the thermal cut-off is blown, power to the element is cut-off and the dryer will not heat. Replacing both thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat if the former is indeed blown. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.


Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



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1 Answer

No a kenmore 80 series dryer will not heat . if the heating elment is good & fuse is good what else could be the problem


The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

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Mar 09, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
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jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will not heat. How to determine if it is element or high limit fuse, temp reg. or temp regulator?


For the element and high limit fuse, you can test them for continuity. If you have continuity, they are okay. Not sure about temp regulator. When you take the dryer apart you will find a wire diagram folded up under the top front brace. It may help you and give you the testing ranges for the various electronic parts.

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1 Answer

I have a thin twin stacking whirlpool washer/dryer. The high limit switch is kicking off the element within 2 mins of running. So heating element heats up red hot, then clicks off after 2 mins. I have...


I think you are on the right track with a faulty high limit switch. When i serviced these units we always replaced the operating thermostat and the high limit switch together they came in a kit. The operating thermostat in theory should never let it get hot enough to trip the high limit switch, which is really just a safety backup for the operating thermostat. Get the kit and replace both, and also make sure your exhaust vent going outside has good flow at the outside vent,a restricted vent system will cause similar issues.. Good Luck

Oct 07, 2010 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

My kenmore dryer is blowing only cold air. What is wroge? We already checked the heating element and timer...???? This dryer is only 4 years old.


The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.

All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).

A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.

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1 Answer

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Hi rfairess


it sounds like the high limit thermostat is cutting out and not resetting itself.

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