My power connection is completely broken off from the circuit board, (left the car charging adaptor plug in and got smashed in my carry on luggage will traveling). Is it worth getting repaired? It's about 3 years old. If so where can I send it? Model: TomTom ONE 3rd Edition (1 GB) Thanks, Troy
To be honest you'd be better off upgrading. The ONE 130S is essentially the "4th Edition" of the ONE with a new mount AND text to speech. You'll get more bang for your buck with the new device and you'll have the most up to date maps with their latest map guarantee (if there are newer maps or a new set of maps come out within 30 days, you can upgrade for free)
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POWER SUPPLY & BATTERY PROBLEM If the laptop battery is more than 3 - 4 years old then the battery could be worn out. Rechargeable batteries have a finite number of charge and discharge cycles and will lose their charge capacity over time, i.e. won't charge to 100% and gradually the charge reduces until the battery won't charge up at all. OR The battery shows a 100% charge but when the adapter is disconnected the battery drops off to zero capacity in a very short time. If the battery drops to an unacceptable charge level then the battery needs to be replaced. Rechargeable batteries will fail if stored in a discharged state for long periods. When you connect the power adapter into the laptop, does the power LED light up? If not then - The battery adapter or the adapter's power lead or the laptop's power socket could be faulty. Check power adapter's DC plug that connects into the laptop power socket with a multi-meter, the voltage should be slightly higher than the voltage that is printed on the label on the bottom of the adapter. If the voltage is zero or way below the voltage that is printed on the label then the power adapter is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the adapter is OK then connect it to the laptop and power it up, then look at the power/battery charging LED light and wriggle the power plug in the laptop's power socket. If the power/battery LED light flashes and in a certain position this LED light stays firm, then the power socket is either faulty or it has a dry solder joint where it is connected to the motherboard. This can be repaired but it requires the laptop to be completely dismantled to get at this power socket and repair. If you cannot DIY then I suggest you get a quote first.
Check the light on the AC adaptor when plugged in to the laptop. If it is flashing, it indicates that the power is being "spat back". That is, not completing the circuit. Means that you have a fault in the charging circuit. I'd check for burning around the contacts where the DC port was soldered onto the board / or if the plug type, check the socket on the mobo is not damaged and is firmly soldered on.
After that, (if not already done) check the output voltage of the adaptor with a multimeter, might be a simple failure of the ac adaptor, even though it looks ok
Don't try and charge the battery directly, as it is a lithium battery it can explode if not charged correctly. You can try connecting (soldering) wires to the circuit board where the socket was connected to feed in 5V from the power adaptor or USB lead.
This is a tricky issue, it's either a problem related to the battery or the adaptor.
Try removing the battery and just plug in the adaptor and see if the computer will boot. If it does then there's a problem with the battery and you just need to replace it, if it doesn't then there's a few other things it could be.
The two most likely options is that the adaptor is bad, or the AC port on the computer has become loose. Most of the computers I've repaired that had these symptoms was that the AC port was bad if the battery wasn't. The best way to test this is to plug in the adaptor and just see if it wiggles around a lot, if it's loose then it might not be connecting to the board correctly and will need to be soldered bad on. If it's not loose then the adaptor might be bad, you can test another adaptor on your laptop or that adaptor on someone else's but be carefull, I can't stress this enough, if you're going to switch adaptors you have to make sure that the voltage IS EXACTLY THE SAME and has the same amps, if the voltage is off you can damage the computer, if the amps is off you can damage the adaptor.
If by some fluke it doesn't seem to be the battery, and you tested the adaptor and the AC port doesn't feel loose, then the charging circuit in the laptop might be shot, in which case you'll need a new motherboard.
I think that covers everything, sorry for the wall of text
No, there are no reset button or fuse in these laptop adapters, they are a sealed unit. The lead/plug maybe broken at the plug. Test the voltage at the plug with a multi-meter, the output voltage should be slightly higher than the voltage that is printed on the label on the bottom of the adapter. If the voltage is zero or way below the voltage that is printed on the label then the power adapter is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the adapter is OK then connect it to the laptop and power it up, then look at the power/battery charging LED light and wriggle the power plug in the laptop's power socket. If the power/battery LED light flashes and in a certain position this LED light stays firm, then the power socket is either faulty or it has a dry solder joint where it is connected to the motherboard. This can be repaired but it requires the laptop to be completely dismantled to get at this power socket and repair. I suggest you get a quote first.
I am well aware of what you are experiencing with your DVD player power connection. What has happened is that the power connector on the back of the unit is actually mounted on a circuit board by soldering connection tips. Unfortunatly it is not the best design because after the power cord has been plugged in and removed a few times it weakens and loosed these soldered tips and it nolonger has a good connection on the board. Short of removing the board and re-soldering the connection there is little else that can be done. Your expertise with a soldering gun depends as to whether or not you are successful in re-establishing the connection. It seems to me that if it is re-soldered, then it is just a matter of time before it breaks loose again and the board will damage after so many breaks. What I have done to repair this is to try and find a female connector like the one mounted to the board except find on that is on a cord instead. Solder the wire in the cable to the board and attact the cable to the case in a fashion that when the wire is being connected for charging that it won't pull the soldered connections out of the board. Sure, you will have a short piece of wire hanging from the rear of the unit, but this way you won't have to be concerned with the cable detaching and loosing your ability to use the unit with an AC adaptor or for charging the battery. I hope you can find a remedy for this that works. If you stumble across a better Idea Please let me know. best of luck!