Question about Toyotomi Heating & Cooling
I cleaned the filter on the unit which was dirty now it floods
the burner there is a float needle an seat are there repair kits
or is it something else the unit worked fine until it ran out of
SOURCE: I have a riello burner
Replace the nozzle, don't try and clean it. After the burner runs a few seconds, do you have to reset the control (red button) before it will start again? Does it sound like there is a pulsation in the flame when it starts or it is running out of oil? You may have a bad ignition control. Start with the small stuff, nozzle, strainer filter, oil tank filter and then work to the more complicated.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
SOURCE: My oil boiler is a
The actual final solution was to replace the fuel valve/solenoid following which the boiler has run without failure.
The conclusion was that the fuel valve solenoid was ok when cold but when heated up had some sort of electrical breakdown in its coils, causing the fuel valve to fluctuate until the boiler locked out.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: burner propblem
have you tried to wipe off the fire eye on the unit if it has one? If it's dirty too then it will not see the flame and not let the unit come on correctly. Good Luck and have a Happy New Year.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
SOURCE: carrier gas heater
You may have a defective control board or blower motor. You will need to find on the main control board the location where the blower motor (marked heat) is connected. Using a volt meter, after resetting the limits and restarting unit, you will need to check and see if the board is supplying 1115 volts to blower motor (between the blower heat terminal and one of the neutral terminals on board). Also have someone hold in the door safety switch, or put a piece of tape on the switch, The switch will pop out when the bottom furnace door is removed, this is the normal location of control board. As the furnace goes through its normal cycle and prior to locking out on safety (limit opening) you should get 115 volts from the board (terminal marked blower / heat). If the board does not put out 115 volts, then the board is defective. If the board puts out 115 volts and the blower does not operate, the blower motor is probably defective, there is one more check to do. Close the door and put your system in cooling, see if the motor starts, if it does, then the low speed (reactor) is defective and motor needs replacing. If the motor does not start in cooling mode, you may have a defective capacitor. Check all of the above first and see what happens. Good luck, and be careful.
Posted on Dec 07, 2011
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