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The bunner on the oil miser floods

I cleaned the filter on the unit which was dirty now it floods
the burner there is a float needle an seat are there repair kits
or is it something else the unit worked fine until it ran out of
fuel

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5 Suggested Answers

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: I have a riello burner

Replace the nozzle, don't try and clean it. After the burner runs a few seconds, do you have to reset the control (red button) before it will start again? Does it sound like there is a pulsation in the flame when it starts or it is running out of oil? You may have a bad ignition control. Start with the small stuff, nozzle, strainer filter, oil tank filter and then work to the more complicated.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

SOURCE: My oil boiler is a

The actual final solution was to replace the fuel valve/solenoid following which the boiler has run without failure.
The conclusion was that the fuel valve solenoid was ok when cold but when heated up had some sort of electrical breakdown in its coils, causing the fuel valve to fluctuate until the boiler locked out.

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: burner propblem

have you tried to wipe off the fire eye on the unit if it has one? If it's dirty too then it will not see the flame and not let the unit come on correctly. Good Luck and have a Happy New Year.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rear Carb leaks fuel out of overflow

Hole in the float. It fills with gas, sinks and fails to stop the fuel flow

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: Air box and crank case fuel flooding problem

Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a John Deere la105 it floods out cleaned carb put a kit and New float still floods


Replace the needle and seat and ensure the seat is tight check float height and small spring is attached to the needle.

Jun 09, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

Flooding out


Three things cause this....
1. Debris between the float needle tip and the float needle rubber seat.
2. A very very very dirty air cleaner.
3. A fuel float assembly that the float has filled with fuel and is too heavy to float up with the fuel level.
My bet is there is dirt in the float needle seat.
remove the float bowl
remove the float hinge pin and drop the float (Shake the float gently checking to make sure there is no internal fuel inside the float.) If there is fuel in the float replace it.
remove the main fuel line

Spray carb cleaner UP into the float needle hole so that the debris will wash out of the the float needle seat. Next spray carb cleaner from the main fuel line connection through the float needle seat.

Reinstall the main fuel line.
reinstall the float needle and float as one unit.
Turn on the fuel selector...
raise the float gently until it is just level. Fuel flow must stop. If it does not stop change the float needle and seat.
Reinstall the float bowl.
Test for leaks..
Start generator. Task complete.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Aug 27, 2011 | Briggs & Stratton Power Products 5,550...

2 Answers

Hi ya got a old ish tiller in for repair, it is a ISEKI AC40 problem is hard to start & when it starts it will only run for about 10 seconds, so far checked plug which has a good spark, compression ok,...


From your description we will assume it is flooding. If you suspect float problem, check float level, holding the carb upside down the float should be parallel to carb body when needle seat is closed. On metal floats this is accomplished by bending the tab that rides on the needle, units with plastic floats you may have to replace it. Also remove float and shake it, should not be any gas in the float, this will make it flood. Also set carb adjustment screw at 1.5 turns out, may need a little tweek from there.

Oct 05, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

My Kawasaki zx750 1994 starts when she feels like it!


Your carb is still malfunctioning at the float valve and is flooding your engine.

With the carb off, remove the bowl and then the float. Inspect the tip of the float needle for a defined ring from wear and the float needle seat for burrs or defects. If you find any of this, replace the deffective part.

If not, it may just still be a little dirty. Use a q-tip soaked in carb cleaner to clean the float needle seat. This seat and the float needle have to be perfect to work.

Next make sure the float doesn't have any gas inside it. If it does, it's leaking and causing your problem.

If not, your float height may be a little off. If the float is all plastic, you can't adjust it and it shouldn't be the culprit. If it has a metal tab, this cam be flexed a little to adjust the float height, much like the float in the back of a toilet. Try barely tweaking the metal tab in the direction of the float needle and seat. This will lower the fuel level inside the carb. Only do float mods as a last resort.


*Help me out. Rate me!

May 11, 2010 | kawasaki Z 750 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have an 03 polaris 330 magnum 4x4 it worked fine than one day i had to keep the choke on to keep it running took carb apart cleaned all jets etc started it back up worked fine then it didnt put choke on...


Sound like the needle and seat are dirty. Also check the fuel strainer / filter for debris. Usually if the needle and seat are dirty so is the filter / strainer & bowl.

Needle and seat item(s) 24 and 24 original factory Parts manual under carb. at the dealer:

(called float valve in description)

Sounds like the float valve is either not closing or is dirty and not allowing carb to fill to the proper level. i.e causes fuel starvation AND carb over filling intermittently. You can clean the needle and still have a bad seat for the needle.

Find and replace or clean the fuel filter also. If your carb has a manifold and nut on the side of it for the fuel manifold remove the nut (actually a bolt type thing) and clean the strainer inside the manifold.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly


Feb 13, 2010 | Polaris ATV

1 Answer

Wont start and mixture of oil and gasoline coming out of air filter


Remove the air filter and observe which carburetor is flooding into the cleaner. When you have found the problem carb, remove the float bowl and clean the float needle and seat. The oil is probably arriving from the crankcase vent and may be due to overfill of oil, or a large amount of 'blowby' from worn rings in the cylinders. You may have to replace the air filter if it is soaked with oil and fuel. Hope this gets you running.

Dec 16, 2009 | 1981 Yamaha XS 400 Special

2 Answers

Engine stalling due to too much fuel. Fuel in crankcase.


sounds like your float in the carb is stuck or the needle valve is bad. remove the bowl and push the float up to level. this should stop the fuel flow. be aware that only slight pressure should be needed.if it does not ck the needle valve. also mak sure you float is not damaged.

Dec 05, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

1975 yamaha DT 175 it floods when the gas tank


I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).

2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.

3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.

4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.

5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.

6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.

7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!

8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.

I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1974 Yamaha DT 360

3 Answers

1994 suzuki RM80R: problems with the carb loading


Sounds like trash in the gas supply is holding the float needle open causing the float bowl to overfill. Remove the petcock from the tank and clean out the water trap bowl (some petcocks don't have a bowl). Drain some gas from the tank through the petcock hole to help clean trash out of the tank. Install an inline fuel filter
between the carb an the gas tank.

Now clean the carb one more time using an air hose to blow trash out of the float seat and then blow out the fuel line as well. Be certain the float level is set at the proper height. This should solve the problem for you.

Please rate this solution as a "FixYa" if this solves the problem. Thanks!

Mar 25, 2009 | 2004 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase


This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

Nov 12, 2008 | Garden

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