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My ge fridge is not getting cold. there is ice in the two top holes. the freezer is cold fine. i already changed the defrost timer.

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  • lianegourd Nov 14, 2008

    the timer was changed because that's what a tecnician told me to do. he told me to try this before anything else. for a few weeks it was better but now the problem of the ice came back and I was wondering if it could be the element.

    the model is a GE GTH18JLSBS.

    thanks for the quick reply

  • lianegourd Nov 14, 2008

    the problem is not the gas.

    the problem is the ice that forms in the fridge. i'm guesing that i have to go by the freezer to reach the element. am i right?

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  • 833 Answers

First, defrost the unit fully.  If there is ice in the air flow channels, it can't cool enough.  Most cold air comes from the freezer area into the fridge by these channels.  Why did you change the timer?  Did you see if the heater element is continous and properly connected to the harness?
Did you clean out the condenser area?  If dirty or clogged, you won't cool enough.  Do that before anything else.  Is the stat set properly?  
If the gas level is low, you won't cool enough to run the fridge portion....and you will get icing.  Check gas level:  Unit off at least an hour.  Start it and note the larger of the two pipes coming out of the compressor.  It should get cold, frost and then either dry out or get droplets of water on it after at least 10-15 minutes.  What happens sooner is unimportant.  If it stays frosted, you'll likely need gas.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

  • Robert Hirst Nov 15, 2008

    You're not reading what I'm writing.  Ice forms when:


    • there is insufficient airflow

    • there is too much moisture

    • low gas causes excessive cooling in spots

    If a tech told you what the problem was, why didn't you let him fix it and guarantee it?

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Hi,
I don't think it is the timer.
I think that the hole that the water normally runs down is either plugged with dirt or ice. Typically they plug with ice. Then the defrost cycle never thaws that ice out and you have a flood on every defrost cycle.

Take a piece of copper wire like 12 or 14 gauge house wire and wrap it arond the defrost coil, with the end of it in the hole. Then on every defrost it will transfer a bit of heat in the hole and melt the ice out.

Make sure that you unplug your fridge before attempting to wrap the wire, don't want no accidental electrocutions...

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

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How to check everything
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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

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How to check parts
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp
..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


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Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

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