Question about Liquid Video L17LCD2 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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Flickers on and off

My LCD too, flickers on and off, I have gone to the safe mode using F8. However, I am unable to see the screen long enough to scroll to the right line. How do I go to the right section without seeing the screen or is there another way to get there? I have a laptop but I wouldn't know how to connect it to my laptop and have the monitor connected at the same time? I am optimistic that the solution that was mentioned on11/10 could work if only I can access the screen long enough to move forward. thanks

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  • rsaroque4 Mar 06, 2008

    I have this and it goes on and off and then only comes on for a second at a time?

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2008

    Same here

  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2008

    I, too, have a Liquid Video L17LCD2 17 inch monitor which worked fine for almost 4 years. Now, upon powering up, my monitor turns on and off at about 1 second intervals. I have a second computer that uses the same monitor, so I connected the malfunctioning monitor to the second computer, and the monitor does the same thing. I then connected the working monitor to the first computer and it works fine, so it's not a computer or driver problem. I also tried switching cables. That did not correct the problem, so it's not a cable problem either. Beyond these steps, I really don't know how to trouble shoot problems of this type, so am I destined to trash this monitor? Or can you help?

  • ih8minwage Sep 30, 2008

    My monitor was turning itself off after about 5 seconds, then I would turn it back on and it would work for about 5 seconds again.

    I just replaced C922 yesterday with the 35v unit from Radioshack, and now I have the 1 second on and off problem that everyone on here has. None of the other capacitors are bulging at all. Should I replace the other capacitors with 35v units as well? (I guess I might as well, it's still all apart, and it'll only cost a few bucks...) Any other suggestions?



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I also had the same problem with the same monitor.

The capacitor cost $1.68 at the radio shack (30117), however, the clerk had no idea what I was talking about and had to locate the drawer myself and sift through trays to find the correct {empty} slot. They ordered it and sent it directly to me at no additional cost for shipping.

The step by step instructions listed up above on disassembling were "spot on".

Looking at the c922, I barely could tell that it was bulged on the end (similar to a coke can when it gets too hot). The 35v is considerably larger than the 16v that you take out, so careful not to cut your leads off too short before soldering back so you have enough room to manuveur it into an acceptable position when you put the monitor back together. I also used some insulation to ensure the leads (wires) would not touch any other metal parts. The leads had no + or - listed so I dunno if I guessed correctly or it is indifferent, but the monitor worked when I got it back together.

One thing is though: [And this might help those of you who tried this and believed it to not have fixed it] Initially, when I turned the monitor back on, I thought that it was doing the same on for one second and then off for a few.... but I noticed that the frequency in between the clicks were growing closer together (as in shorter intervals). So, I just left it alone for about 15 minutes and when I returned to the desk, it was working like new.

NO PROBLEMS since, however, it has only been 6-8 weeks ago. I turn it off and on now with no problems and there is no delay or having to build a charge like it had to do that first time.

Many thanks to Ozzyb for the 1st grade instructions. You gave me the confidence to try it and $1.68 and 30-45 minutes later, ** poof ** my machine is back at full speed.

Good Luck to those of you who try it yourself. What have you got to lose except $1.68? It beats spending 2-3 Ben Franklins on a new one. Trust me, I'm cheap! -Tim 10/15/2008.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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I had a similar problem with this monitor and solved it by replacing C922 on the Inverter board, the 470 cap in front of it looked like it was bulging on top, so I did not take a chance I replaced it as well, I found both little taller 35v at RadioShack, it worked .....

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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Mfight's comments are correct. "I have the same monitor and the power light was blinking on and off regardless of whether it was plugged into a source or not. I could see an image of the desktop cycle on briefly in conjunction with the power light. I repaired my monitor by changing out a 1000uF/16v cap (C922) and everything is working great." I would suggest changing the caps to a higher voltage rating if you have one that will fit. I installed 35V 1000uF Cap for C922. My unit also had a 470uF cap next to C922 that was bulging so I changed it also. Its an easy repair if you can solder at all. The hardest part is getting the back cover off. Remove the 4 screws that hold the base bracket in place and carefully slide it out. Then the other 5 screws on the back. (One under base plate you can't see till base is off.) Then you can remove the metal sheild and acess the PCB's. 2 Screws and the HEX standoffs at the VGA port need to be removed and it will slide off. The inverter board is the one on the left. Even at Radio Shack prices these caps should cost less than a couple bucks. I took mine off a couple junk boards I had. Replace any that are bulging at all. Many thanks to the person that threw this monitor in the dumpster for scrap metal at our local tranfer station. Works great. Ozzyb

Posted on Sep 23, 2007

I had a similar problem with this monitor and solved it by replacing C922 on the Inverter board. Look for a bulging top on this capacitor as compared with others of the same type. Good luck. John, K9KA

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

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I have the same monitor and the power light was blinking on and off regardless of whether it was plugged into a source or not. I could see an image of the desktop cycle on briefly in conjunction with the power light. I repaired my monitor by changing out a 1000uF/16v cap (C922) and everything is working great.

Posted on Mar 20, 2007

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Hi Billy6, Sounds like the back light inverter board is bad. It's a very common problem. LCD's use four small cold compact fluorescent bulbs to back light the display. (thats what gives the LCD it's brightness allowing you to see it) The inverter board runs these lights and when they go bad they will typically show symptoms like you have or the monitor power light comes on and you have either no display or a very dim display. If you ever have one that has no display but the power light is on you can check by shining a flashlight directly into the LCD from the front (right into the screen) if you can see an image then it's either the inverter board (most likely) or the CCFL bulbs have gone bad. The inverter board and CCFL's are replaceable. Good Luck, El Duderino

Posted on Nov 26, 2006

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