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Replacing whirlpool dryer timer

Old timer has a brown jumper wire, new timer doesn't have the second leg for the jumper. Do I need this jumper? If so, where should I connect the second end?

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Many replacement units are 'fits all'.  If the other connections are similar, try it out.  If it doesn't work, somebody goofed.  Either way, you will not mess up or cause a fire or anything.  

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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Bought a new dryer timer. The recommended part for Kenmore dryer model 110.97281100 is WP3398190. The old timer model is M460-G and 3391658. Things do not line up exactly.


From your description, it seems you do not have an exact replacement. See what www.searspartsdirect.com has to say. Don't be surprised if you get several different answers.

Nov 07, 2016 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Need to replace my dryer timer M460-G


The problem is that the new M460-G timer does not have the same terminal letters as the old one (because there seem to be a variety of sub-models under the M460-G name providing varying options such as an "air dry" function). However, I've at least been able to provide the basic timed heat function using a different M460-G on my old Frigidaire Crown Gas Dryer M/N FDGB23RGS2 . To do this, figure out the terminal functions by rotating the M460-G switch and measure with ohm meter and also inspect wiring diagram (mine was at appliance pros dot com).
On Frigidaire Crown FBGB23RGS2 Gas Dryer:
The original M460-G is wired:
Terminal / Function / Color
A / Gas / Org
B / Line voltage / Red
C / Motor / Wh
Timer wired between TM and C
AD / Auto Dry / Pink
TD / Start Switch and Motor / Tan

On other M460-G Gas Dryer timer (from mystery Dryer), I wired it to into my Crown dryer as follows:
Terminal / Function / Crown Dryer Wire color
BU / Line Voltage / Red
BK / Motor / Wh
R / Gas / Org
V / ? / No Connection
Timer wired between TM and BK
WB / switched on while Motor & Gas / Tan
OR / ? / Pink (figured it was safe)6b1460b2-ed5e-4c5d-b06b-c654e59e7487.jpg

Nov 19, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag gas dryer model SDG4606AWW timer wont rotate on any cycle, dryer just keeps running until knob is rotated manualy to off, replaced timer and new one is doing the same, took dryer compltley apart,...


I don't have a Maytag schematic handy but there should be one on or in the dryer. Trace the clock wiring back until until you get voltage. I am betting one leg of the time motor goes to the drum motor (Gray wire maybe) and the other leg to the dryness sensor module (brown wire). Check these wires against both Line and Neutral. That should tell of it's the module or the motor block.

Nov 04, 2013 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 70 series dryer. The dryer runs but will not heat. I have had all fuses, heating element, and thermostats tested but it still will not heat. Any thoughts?


Notes: Check all components on dryer with at least one wire removed and all have continuity or 0 ohms.
Have checked circuit breaker and know for sure 240 volts is going in machine (motor runs on 120v heater needs 240v).
Ok the next thing to do is find the heavy red wire going into the timer. Remove the red wire from the timer. Set the timer on heat dry cycle (power if off) Chck from that leg of the timer to any other leg on the timer for continuity. or 0 ohms. if you get nada then the contacts inside the timer is bad. My video:

Sep 10, 2013 | Whirlpool GEQ9800L Electric Dryer

2 Answers

New GE Profile dryer DPSE810EG7WT does not work. I wired exactly as old dryer. L1 L2 and neutral. The timer comes on but the machine does nothing! Thanks, Roger


if this is a gas dryer you would only need L1 OR L2.... NOT BOTH PHASES, this unit only needs the one leg of either A 120Volts or B 120Volts phase NOT BOTH PHASES 240 volts A.C. not 240 V.A.C. as in an electrically heated element will require to heat the system, NOW ...be careful now because one hot phase is connected where it shouldn't be!!!!

Apr 26, 2010 | GE DCVH515GF Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Can I test dryer timer to see if its any good?


I do not think a "NO HEAT" problem can be caused by the timer.
Sounds like another electrical problem:
Have you check the house breaker or wall receptacle to see if you are feeding 220V to your dryer?
Have you check your hi-limit thermostat to see if it has continuity?

Those are the most common causes of "NO HEAT"

Aug 17, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Wiring for dryer timer GE model dvlr223ee2ww


If both are the same colour "brown" just replace and stick in empty space place on timer.
Vitally

May 14, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

1 Answer

WON'T COME ON AT ALL.


you have not said anuthing about ohming out the start knob,and have you checked both legs on the power cord are getting 120 volts each?let me know what you find-mike

Sep 09, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

HELP!!! Help wiring new motor for CKL60-1


  1. This is what your wiring should look like if you are using two caps. then you should be using a potential relay as well. This is the diagram for using a potential relay. Hope it helps you.
Thank Youe461749.jpeg

Aug 25, 2008 | Goodman CKL60AR60 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Need wiring solution for replacement part


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



Mar 15, 2008 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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