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I don't have a Maytag schematic handy but there should be one on or in the dryer. Trace the clock wiring back until until you get voltage. I am betting one leg of the time motor goes to the drum motor (Gray wire maybe) and the other leg to the dryness sensor module (brown wire). Check these wires against both Line and Neutral. That should tell of it's the module or the motor block.
Notes: Check all components on dryer with at least one wire removed and all have continuity or 0 ohms. Have checked circuit breaker and know for sure 240 volts is going in machine (motor runs on 120v heater needs 240v). Ok the next thing to do is find the heavy red wire going into the timer. Remove the red wire from the timer. Set the timer on heat dry cycle (power if off) Chck from that leg of the timer to any other leg on the timer for continuity. or 0 ohms. if you get nada then the contacts inside the timer is bad. My video:
You can perform some Whirlpool electric
dryer timer troubleshooting to determine if the timer is faulty or if
the cause is somewhere else within the dryer.
Access the Timer
Unplug the Whirlpool dryer power
cord from the dryer electrical outlet. The timer is inside the control
panel on the top of the dryer. Pull the dryer away from the back wall so
that the control console can be raised without hitting the wall.
Remove the single screw on each end of the control console that
secures the control console housing to the top of the dryer. Grab the
sides of the control console and raise the front of the console up and
toward the rear of the dryer. With the control console in the service
position you will now be able to test the timer.
Test the Timer
Locate the dryer timer inside
the control console. It will be directly behind the dryer timer control
knob. There are two wires that connect from the dryer to the dryer
timer. Place a piece of masking tape on each wire and write on the tape
what terminal each wire attaches. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to
remove the wires from the terminal ends on the timer.
Set the scale on a volt-ohm meter to the RX1 setting to measure the
ohms of the timer. Place one probe to one terminal and the other probe
to the remaining terminal. You should get a reading between 2,000 ohms
and 3,000 ohms. If you do not get this reading, replace the timer.
Replacing the Timer
Pull the control knob off of the
timer shaft on the face of the control console. Remove the two screws
that secure the timer to the inside of the control console. Pull the
timer out and take the timer with you to an appliance repair facility.
Compare the new timer to the old timer to make sure that the mounting
Place the new timer inside the console and secure the timer with the
two retaining screws. Attach the wires to the timer and remove the
masking tape from the wires. Lower the control console and reattach the
console to the top of the dryer with the retaining screws. Push the
control knob back over the timer shaft. Push the dryer back against the
wall and plug the power cord back into the electrical outlet.
if this is a gas dryer you would only need L1 OR L2.... NOT BOTH PHASES, this unit only needs the one leg of either A 120Volts or B 120Volts phase NOT BOTH PHASES 240 volts A.C. not 240 V.A.C. as in an electrically heated element will require to heat the system, NOW ...be careful now because one hot phase is connected where it shouldn't be!!!!
I do not think a "NO HEAT" problem can be caused by the timer.
Sounds like another electrical problem:
Have you check the house breaker or wall receptacle to see if you are feeding 220V to your dryer?
Have you check your hi-limit thermostat to see if it has continuity?