Question about Mitsubishi WD-62327 62" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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Timer light blinking green/tv won't turn on

When I try to turn the Mitsubishi WD-62327 on, the green timer light on the front blinks green. And the tv doesn't turn on. I have tried to unplug it, in hopes that it will reset, but the same thing happens. How do I get the tv to turn on?

Thank you.

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Hello avtech,

Your diagnosis is correct and your suggested fix is correct as far as the manufacture says, however there is much debate on why Mitsubishi changed the DM module caps fro 1000uf to 680uf. by changing from 1000uf to 680uf you change the time constant of the charge and discharge of the capacitors (faster charge and discharge times). This would mean that the spikes that are causing the caps to fail could be nulled out during the fast discharge. The problem is you avoid the spike by hoping that it occurs only on the part of the time constant that is now part of the discharge time. The 1000uf gave you a slower TC, the 680uf gives you a faster TC. A lot of TV technicians who are also engineers agree that this works, but the cost due this method is not a good one, you still do not take care of the central problem which actually is sharp increases of voltage on the 12v rail, that these caps filter ripple for. There are actually four ways to fix this problem, One is the replacing of the caps as you have suggested, which until more data comes in, is deemed as the manufacture approved method (although not the best). Second, replace the caps as is (This buys you about 4 years of functionality until another replacement is needed). Third, replace the caps with ones rated a 1000uf but 35 volts (This one allows the ripple to be filtered a 1000uf, this provides better filtering action then the 680uf, and a higher voltage limit), which allows for higher positive voltage shift without destroying the capacitor.
Fourth is the most logical and expensive, use the proper filtering method, namely a chebyshev filter containing capacitors and choke coils set to provide 10 dbm of attenuation per L section.

The last would be the best solution, albeit the most expensive. In any event the method you gave to the customer was the manufacture suggested method. Good work.

Thank you,

Shuttle83

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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The DM moduel is bad. You can fix it by replacing 4 filter caps on the DM moduel. Do not replace them with the same type that is in there. You need to replace them with 680u 16v electrolitic caps. They are easy to find. Pull out the DM board, they are at the corner of the board and the tops of the caps are bubbled out a little.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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The wd 62327 doesn't have a DM module as it doesn't have the atsc tuner. are you sure you have a wd62327?

in a normal set
power:
Green Blink = μPC Initializing (after AC off/on) (1~2 sec)

get the error code by doing this: (and let me know)

Error Code Operational Check
Pressing the front panel “INPUT” and “MENU” buttons at the same time, and holding for 5 seconds,
activates the Error Code Mode. The ” Power LED” flashes denoting a two digit Error Code, or indicating no problem
has occured since the last Initalization.
Note: The front panel buttons must used, NOT those on the Remote Control.
• The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.
• The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.
• The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.
• The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times.
Example: If the Error Code is “34”, the LED will flash 3 times, pause, and then flash 4 times.

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

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