- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Speaker requirements are likely to be 8 ohm, most modern hi-fi speakers are. A few low-fi systems have used special high impedance speakers and the old hi-fi standard for valve amplifiers was 15 ohm and 3 ohm or lower has been used in televisions a lot.
4 ohm speakers are commonly used where a higher power output is desired at the cost of some quality of sound reproduction but depending on how the sound is listened to can soon overload some amplifiers primarily designed for 8 ohm as it will try and deliver more power into the lower impedance speakers and perhaps exceed the rating.
8 ohms is a safer choice. The lower the wattage rating of the speakers the more efficiently they tend to be able to reproduce sound at low volume levels so for background music in a small domestic environment the average power requirement will be in the order of half a watt so even with a high powered amplifier the volume would rarely be turned up above 1 - 2 on the typical scale of 10 and ten watt speakers would be more than adequate. It is unfortunate that it is almost impossible to obtain quality speakers rated at such an unfashionably low power rating.
With the stiffer cones of a higher power rated speakers the volume has to be turned higher before the speakers become efficient and listening at low levels can be difficult. In a domestic environment a 50 watt rating is perhaps the best compromise as if there are neighbours to consider a ten watt average power output will be sufficient even if the amplifier is capable of higher powers. Just don't turn the volume up more than necessary.
The greater the power rating the more power will be required for efficient reproduction. For electrical and mechanical safety of the speakers the rating should exceed the maximum output of the amplifier but listening at low levels with quality of sound can become virtually impossible.
Before you go off on a wattage hunt you should learn what that means.
Search the web for subjects such as "amplifier wattage vs speaker wattage" for starts.
Don't buy into what manuafacturers CLAIM for wattage if it ADDS all the channels together and FAILS to specify a bandwidth and an acceptably low distortion figure. REPUTABLE makers specify watts per channel, all channels driven at no more than X distortion (typically well under .1%) and, at minimum, across the audio bandwidth or 20Hz - 20kHz.
Any garbage cheapo amp (meaning most shelf systems or all-in-one packages) can put out a lot of dirty power which will strain THEM and possibly kill your speakers. CLEAN POWER is what you want.
Dosome reading and search the web for whatever you are considering, and add the word 'scam' to the search. Get opinions from actual owners. There are a lot of unscrupulous people out there selling garbage to people on the streets.
Hi, As long as you like the way the speakers sound there is really no reason you cant use whatever speakers you want. To find out the approximate wattage of the stereo you are using look on the rear of the unit and you will find a tag that has " SPECIFICATIONS " on it. There you will see perhaps the a.m. and f.m. frequencies it's capable of receiving also there should be numbers saying something like" 100-240vac or 100-240v~ 50-60hz 1.2amp or 120watts.( if power is listed in amps only-1 amp's equivalent to about a hundred watts)Dividing the wattage by 3 will give you an approximate power out put. Example if your stereo draws 120 watts worth of 110 from the wall it will put out approximately 40 watts to each speaker. Changing from OEM speakers is all right as long as you don't try to hook up some 150 watt peak speaker to a stereo capable of just, say, 10 watts per channel. Doing this will eventually cause damage to the amplifier, not to mention causing about 30 percent total harmonic distortion-which take my word for you will know if you ever hear it! So long story short-use what you wish, just be careful not to overload the receiver-if the speakers are a bit to powerful for receiver you can lessen distortion by turning down the " BASS" as that takes the most power in a speaker. Thanks for choosing FixYa, I hope this helped-good luck, Prodzilla
Yes they can. Above the amplifier compartment you should see the output package. The output package is where the phono speakers are connected to but this can be used to provide output to extention speakers. E1 to E7 tappings left and right provide outputs at different voltages/wattage. E1 left and right is the comon (or ground connection) E2 is the lowest tapping and E7 is the highest. Most people would connect extention speakers to E3 or E4 left & right with the comon connections of the speakers to one of the E1's.
There is also connections for 70 volt line speakers, these are used where long cable runs are needed and the speakers are then fitted with 70 volt drop down transformers to the correct wattage of the speakers. These are available from most good electroic suppliers such as R.S. or Maplins etc.
That's what we call parallel connections, Yes it's possible, but will decrease the sound wattage of the amp. Having these connections is risky, you do not want to shortage the speaker output of your amp by making mistakes of wire's color coding. Other than that, it should be fine......
A Real Speaker Jacks..
There should be a switch position on your system that you move to allow the sound to come out to standard speaker configuration or to multiple speaker configuration.
This switch may be on the front or rear panel.
Please have alook to see if its there....
Its possible the these Real speaker jacks are not wired to anything inside the amp system, and are there for use on a different model where the selector switch is supplied.
B Cassett Deck..
The clicking is caused by the motor trying to drive the wheels that turn the cassett tape.
It sounds like something is jamming the internal drive mechanism.
The drive belt may have come off or is stretched and is slipping.
Have a good look inside the front slot and you may see one of these items described above happening..
Hi this is Compaqowner again NOTE: I know enough about home Stereos,and I am pretty sure to figure out 'power output' you take the total:in this case it takes in 110 watts total devide that by 2 so according to my math that is 55 watts (I guess this AKAI has a 55 watt amplifier) then you take the amplifier output (in his case 55 watts) and devide that by how many channels are being used,so in 5.1 DOLBY mode DVD movie,etc.(power to all 5 speakers) then it's 11 watts per channel,and in 2.1 stereo (power to the subwoofer,front right,and front left speakers only) it jumps up to a little over 18 watts per channel,again,I think?,when you find the answer,please let me know. Thank you for your time. Steve B.