Question about Maytag MAV6300 Top Load Washer

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Maytag washer sqealing

Washer tub stopped turning. Primary drive belt turns. Secondary drive belt does nothing. Either it is slipping on pulley or something. Smells like burning rubber. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Garrett

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Hi Garrett,

sounds like a frozen gearbox. check the pulley that is being driven by the motor or by the secondary belt that you are saying. it could be the gear box broke and would not spin. another thing to look at once the gearbox is down is the brake mechanism. it could have broke down and would not run because the brake is not yet released.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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My washer wont spin or agitate and there was a burning smell


Hi
Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer
To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel

Jan 30, 2011 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

No spin agitate or drain just motor noise


The noise coming from the motor means it is running but cannot drive the drive pulley and the pump pulley because the drive belt is either broken or has slipped off. The drive pulley and the pump are driven by a single belt. Replace the drive belt if broken or loose and has slipped off. Disconnect power then drain the water manually by placing the end of the drain hose into a bucket or a shallow basin. Position the bucket/basin as low as possible to extract as much water from the tub. Once drained, lay the machine on its back to access the belt under the machine. When replacing the belt, wrap it on the motor and the pump pulleys then on the drive pulley. Turn the drive pulley in such a way that the belt wraps around the motor pulley, pump pulley, and the drive pulley.

Nov 11, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Frigidaire GLTF1670A washer. When the washer goes into the spin cycle, I have noticed a progressively louder belt slipping sound. The washer is 7 years old. Do I need to replace the belt, or is...


Disconnect the washer from the electrical supply then remove the screws shown holding the rear access panel to the washer’s rear panel and lift the access panel off.
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Cushion the bottom of the cabinet opening as shown to avoid hurting yourself with the sharp edge.
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Plug the washer in then start a loaded spin cycle to check for belt slippage and the motor operation itself.

Replace the belt if loose or slipping. Remove the belt by turning the tub drive pulley and rolling the belt off the pulley.
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Install the new belt in reverse order by wrapping it around the motor pulley and on one side of the tub drive pulley then turn the pulley to the other side in such a way that the belt wraps completely around the pulley. Secure the rear access panel back into position to complete the procedure.

Note: This advice is intended solely for the asker dolanbox as per live chat discussion.

Aug 30, 2010 | Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Load was to heavy and I smelt burnt rubber now no spin


Hi

Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer

To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.

Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--


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Please post back for any further assistance.

Thanks
Daniel

Jul 24, 2010 | Frigidaire FWS833A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer won't spin. Belt is slipping. Tub is stuck.


The belt sounds worn out since its slipping. Change it out. Its cheap fix.

The drum brake does just what is sounds like. brakes the drum. For instance when u open the lid during a cycle and everything stops thats the drum engaging and stops the movement of teh drum. If the brake is malfunctioning two things will happen, you open the lid (assuming the safety switch is still good) or the drum will not spin at all.

Aug 24, 2009 | Maytag LAT3600A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag MAV 7000 stopped in rinse cycle with water in tub. When turned on, there is a low buz sound. Was making a louder noise prior to stopping.


RepairClinic.com

The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components.

Go here for: Maytag-Washing-Machine-Parts

May 05, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV7000

2 Answers

Burning smell + Screeching sound but Belt is not the cause, then WHAT is?


A lot of people may be searching for help with horrible sounds and burned belts for Maytag and Admiral washers only a few years old from Home Depot etc. They used a cheap pump that has a corrugated sheetmetal ring that holds the bearings. Well as it runs the vibration and friction cause it to slip down and grind on the pulley as well as not turn easily. If you put the washer on it's back and turn the small pulley and it turns with a gritty feel or you can actually see a loose metal collar type ring thing that looks like a cookie cutte; then you have a bad pump.

There is a small access panel on the back of the washer. Three screws and two spring clips on the hoses and you're done (use big pliers on the hoses). Put the belt back on (just push motor to one side, it's not tight), then check for leaks and reinstall the cover. VOILA! You can find the pump on ebay for $25 or your local GE parts dealers for $50.


Sep 11, 2007 | Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer

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