Question about Polaroid FLM-323B Television

1 Answer

Response to your advice flm323b no pwr. deanhixson@sbcglobal.net

Posted by deanhixson on Nov 13, 2008 Report abuse
lighting struck pwr lines. fuze blown. fuze now blow upon pluging into wall without pushing the pwr on button.
ohm reading .... would not the ohm reading across the pwr inputs illiminate the xformer and an ohm reading across the large cap also rule out the bridge ckts?

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  • deanhixson Nov 14, 2008

    thanks, i will follow your advice. I have dated experience. 30 yrs ago i was in computer maintenance



    dean

  • Anonymous Nov 23, 2008

    no sound

  • Anonymous Nov 23, 2008

    no sound and speaker good

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  • Master
  • 624 Answers

No, it will not. You must understand what type of readings you are supposed to get from them before you can determain if the reading is correct. A transformer will measure nearly zero ohms when measured across the primary or when measured across the secondary. You must know what the leads of the transformer are. Troubleshooting a power supply can be difficult at times. If I had the schematic for this unit I could probably point you in the right direction pretty quickly, but I do not have one. Most times the power cord will go directly to the transformers primary, maybe thru a switch and a fuse. In your case I think that it just goes thru a fuse and then to the transformer. In this case, it is likely that the transformer primary is shorted. If you know where the secondary is at for the transformer, you can disconnect it and then put a fuse in and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does, and the power cord is connected directly to the transformer without any other circuit branched off of it, then it could only be the transformer. If the power cord feeds another circuit, like for a standy-by circuit which supplies a voltage for the micro so the TV can turn on, the problem could be in that stand-by circuit. The stand-by circuit is normally a smaller transformer with a couple of diodes used as rectifiers and a smaller capacitor or 2 that also lead you to a voltage regulator or transistor that is used as a voltage regulator.

The most important thing you need to do is isolate the main transformer if it goes directly to the power cord. By disconnecting the secondary leads of the transformer you take it out of the circuit so that nothing on that side of it can be causing a short. If the secondary of the transformer is soldered directly into the circuit board, then you need to take that solder off of the secondary so that it is no longer in the circuit. You will need to do that with some solder wick which is used for removing solder. The leads for it must not be touching any of the circuit traces on the board. It is the only way to be certain that the secondary is not causing the short, or at least nothing in the circuit past the secondary is causing the problem.

This really should be an easy problem to find, you have a direct short somewhere, or at least a component directly in the path of the power cord that is near shorted and causing massive current draw. This is where the schematic is needed since I can not be there with you to actually look at it with my own eyes.

I hope this helps you find this problem, if not, we can continue this conversation. But I did notice that you have not rated, accepted, or not accepted any of the experts solutions. I believe in order for you to see more solutions you must rate the solution you have so far. If you accept a solution from an expert it will be that experts responsibility to help you solve your problem. Please be aware that some problems just can not be solved in an online forum, sometimes it it requires the technician to actually get their eyes on it. I would also like you to know that even if you accept this solution from me in this thread, I will not get the credit for it unless you accept the solution I provided for you in the paid question you posted earlier today. I can always post another comment on the paid questions thread if you would like to accept it there so I can get the credit for it. Any post you make on the paid thread you should use the experts name you want to communicate with so all the experts know who you are talking to, unless you are just wanting to let all the experts know .

One more thing you should know, since they do not explain it very good to the customers of FixYa!, the ratings in this thread are different from the ratings on the paid thread. Anything less than a FixYa! rating on this thread will lower my overall rating, but any ratings on the paid thread have no effect on the experts ratings. So a "Thanks for Trying" rating on the paid thread is not a negative rating, just means you want more help from other experts. But a "Thanks for Trying" on this thread is a really bad rating that no expert here wants to get. In the paid thread, the experts are just working to make money, here it is free and effects our overall ratings.

I hope this was not confusing for you, I can try to explain any of this post you do not understand, just let me know what you need explained.

Dave

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

  • Dave DeGain
    Dave DeGain Nov 14, 2008

    One more thing you need to know. Never, ever, ever, solder or do anything else while the power cord is still plugged into the wall. These units have high voltages that can kill a person if they get shocked.

    Please be careful, I would hate to see you get hurt trying to fix this TV.


  • Dave DeGain
    Dave DeGain Nov 14, 2008

    Would you mind going to the post that you made and paid for, and accepting my solution so I can get the credit for helping you with this problem. I will go and make another post there shortly, so if you get it in your email you could accept it there. I would really appreciate that, and it would keep one of the other experts from getting that credit for doing little to nothing. If you never accept any solution from that post the credit will go to the person who first posted a solution after it has been 7 days with no solutions being accepted.

    I am more than happy to continue giving you help with this problem, but it would not be fair for me to spend all this time helping you and then somebody else getting the credit for it when they did not do anything else to help you.

    One more thing about your TV. After you find the shorted component that is causing the fuse to keep blowing, it is possible, and even likely, that you may have more components that are bad. It may require that a service manual be purchased to continue troubleshooting the problem. Even the best technicians need the schematic in most cases. It is vital to be able to see the circuit design. It would also be required to be able to get the proper parts that may need to be replaced. Similar parts can not be used, it must be the right specifications to ensure proper and safe operation of the set.

    I am glad to hear you have some repair experience, I can now assume that you are aware of the hazards when working with electronics. But just so you know, TV sets have much higher voltages and currents than any computers.

    Dave






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