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Shooting from the hip here, but look at both the new and old wiring diagrams. Chances are that the new unit has terminal leads that would connect to the old units' relay/control box and you simply need to install the old box on the new A/C by connecting to the correct terminals. beyond that, you can build your own relay setup if you understand wiring diagrams. If you don't know wiring, I'd recomend taking to an RV shop, as you can damage either the A/C or the furnace or both if wired incorrectly... Hope this helped!
Check here and find your service manual as well as parts. If not 100% sure on what you need, call, or e-mail them, or get back to me with more info on who diagnosed problem, and more on symptoms you are experiencing. http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/tech_info/manuals.php
ALL??? That's a tall order. If you're thinking about getting a split system or a packaged unit, consider how much $$$ you have. If you have the money and real estate for the condenser, go for a split system. While both systems may have issues, they are mostly identical as ACs are basically the same from packaged units to whole building chillers/cooling towers... just scaled differently. A split system will be quieter for you because the noisiest part is outside far away from your ears and they are made to handle larger loads.
Sounds like a blockage in the exhaust line and a pressure safety switch is shutting it down. If its an 80% efficient furnace check the exhaust line and the roof vent cover for damage or blockage. If there's ice on the roof, take all necessary safety precautions!!!! If its a 90% efficient furnace, make sure that all the condensate lines are free of any blockage. Remove power to the furnace and remove and clean these lines. Also check the condensate drain lines to make sure that there is no blockage in the line. A water and clorox solution with help to remove any algea build-up.
Look at the black hoses inside the unit. Remove power to the furnace and remove these lines and clean them out with a water and clorox solution. Then inspect the condensate drain line for algae build-up and clean as necessary. Its shutting down because the pressure switch is seeing a small back pressure from a blockage. Most likely water that has not drained. It tries this three times before it shuts down for 5 minutes and tries again. The blockage can also be inside the black manifold that these lines run to before the condensate drain line. This can also be removed and cleaned out if necessary. Check for proper slope of the drain line to prevent this in the future and service/clean these lines anually.
Honeywell makes an electronic ignition conversion kit. (White rodgers also has one but it uses a mercury switch which can be expense if it goes bad). A good service man can install the "Honeywell Y86 Universal Intermittent Pilot Retrofit Kit". This is a "complete" kit for converting a standing pilot system to electronic ignition. It includes a new gas valve, ignition cables with connectors. ignition module and a pilot assembly. It does not include pilot tubing (pilot tubing is cheap). This kit also comes equipped for either natural gas or propane. Your heating guys probably don't know about it because they are to young and not familiar with the old days. Or they just don't care and would rather sell you a furnace. I think that they just don't care. I live in Ohio I just opened up the "new" Johnstone Supply catalog. This part is "not" outdated its on page 450. Do not let these heating guys buffalo you into a new furnace. You are to smart for that! If you weren't you would have believed them and bought something you don't need. Instead of researching on the internet.
The bad news is this kit lists for $456. plus labor.
The problem is most likely in the control module of the roof air unit. Dometic uses the thermostat to activate and deactivate a relay in the control board of the roof ac unit whiich is just visible when you remove your air intake screen. The two blue with white stripe wires are the furnace control wires.
The furnace turns on and off by the opening and closing of relay. Most likely, the furnace control relay is stuck in the on position. On the thermostate, remove the fur wire and see if the furnace quits afrer it cycles down...it does not quit right away. With the termostat out of the loop, if the furnace does not shut down, the problem is in the control box. They are not hard to replace but you must be careful with the live wiire from the 110 ciucuit breaker. If you are not comfortable with the repair, take it to a dealer. The part number is on the assembly box. They need to know if you have the heat srip option or whatever othert options our Roof AC has. If the furnace still runs with the blue/white wires disconnected, the furnace wires are shorted somewhere between the furnace and the AC control unit.