Re: finding underground utilities prior to excavation
Why not call the utilities involved, ie gas, electric etc and inform them of your intentions. They don't want you digging their lines up either. Usually they are more than glad to be of assistance. Good luck, shag79
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In hard water areas the pipes can become strangled by a build-up of lime-scale and underground pipework can become damaged. If some lime-scale breaks away and becomes trapped it can almost completely stop the flow.
If you have near neighbours I suggest you ask them if they have a similar problem. If several do have reduced water flow it could indicate a common cause and it would be worth approaching the utility company. Local conditions could be different where you are but generally when a certain number of houses are similarly affected the cost or the majority of the cost of rectification would have to be met by the company.
If you are the only resident with a problem, again generally speaking, the cost of rectification would be yours, your landlord or insurance company from your property boundary or from the place where it leaves the local water main depending on local agreements and regulations.
Speak to your neighbours first and then decide exactly how much of a problem your low water flow is before you start asking for an expert diagnosis. Even a diagnosis will be quite expensive but if you have to engage a contractor and obtain licences to start excavating roads and sidewalks (worst scenario) the cost is going to be astronomical.
Check on the local codes governing gas piping, but it would be my suggestion to consider abandoning the existing line IF you are sure there is a compromise to its integrity allowing water to enter. I would think if water ENTERS...then GAS has to be able to excape. It'd be a lot of condensation that's required to either just block the line or freeze and block the line. If it freezes due to lack of depth, it's going to rupture anyway sooner or later necessitating replacement.
At the above ground location before where it goes subterranean, (after checking the codes), consider installing the appropriate brass fittings to then allow a new underground copper line to be installed by attaching by means of an iron pipe to flare adapter in the appropriate size. Then utilize type L soft roll copper to lay in the new trench to the garage and tie it into the existing line inside the wall. Type L is the thick walled soft tubing and can be used in many locations for gas, whereas Type M soft copper tubing is thin walled tubing for use with water and not gases. Your area may not allow it. That's what building inspectors are for.
Before proceeding, MAKE SURE your line is in fact the problem then double check with a local authority whether or not copper materials are recommended along with brass fittings for the connections. IF the original and suspected problematic gas line is for sure GALVANIZED it is not in any way approved for use with natural gas. It is probably black iron pipe.
Locust Trees (like many other varieties ) have root systems that easy reach out as far as the foliage and beyond, especially in ares were root growth may be obstructed by buildings or soil may be poor or the tree lacks proper water. A contractor said to me once about such an issue ... "If the tree lives, the roots always win." Many varieties of locust have shallow rooting systems and eventually will lift sidewalks or crack cement.
A solid poured concrete foundation may withstand the pressure of the roots for an extended period of time, especially if it is thick and strong. Block concrete offers less resistance.
Most contractors and landscapers will suggest you plan to take the tree out in the near future
Truly, if you have reported everything accurately, you have done an admiral job of trying to rationally and generously deal with a difficult problem. Take all of your documentation that you have, including the receipts for the letters you sent. Hopefully you have copies of the letters you sent the landlord, if not, then resend similar letters and keep copies, making sure you get the signed receipts, then TAKE ALL THIS TO A SMALL CLAIMS COURT and ask the clerk what form/s you should fill out to take this person to court. The court will hear your case and look at the evidence you present. It seems that you have a very good case to obtain a court order, enforced by police, for the landlord to co-operate with you. Before you do anything, make sure you have copies of the letters you sent to the landlord explaining your position and what you are willing to do to resolve the problems. When you have that in your possession, AND ONLY THEN, and he doesn't reply, send him another registered letter that requires his signature, informing him that you have no choice except to bring him into court. MAKE SURE YOU MAKE A COPY OF THAT LETTER TOO. THAT may be enough to get him to co-operate with you. If not, take him to court.....you should win, if justice and integrity prevail.
Most string trimmers can do this. Just turn it half-way around so the black handle is close to the ground (now string will spin in a verticle sweep instead of parallel to ground). Just walk along sidewalk nad trim. You will have to hold tightly to keep the line straight (brace against your hip and try to make several passes and cut a little at a time).
You may have a button that allows you to only turn the cutting head half way around (so you don't have to use your thumb to operate the switch). Either way, it will work fine.
Hello, I think that the problem you are having is called "drift" . each blade will cut different than the last. The way I was taught to cure this goes as follows.
-take fence off off table(or just move over)
-get a good square piece of material appx. 1x3 and mark a straight line about 1/2" from edge the full length of the board.
-with out the fence cut the board along the line appx. 1/2 the length.
-shut off saw WITH board in it.
-use a angle finder along the edge of the board, set angle finder
-remove board and put the fence back on.
-now slide the angle finder up to the fence, you should see that the angle is different than the fence (this is the DRIFT ), adjust the fence to the angle finder( I know that the smaller saws usalley don't have this adjustment ) you will have to find a way i.e. shim etc.
This is a very common problem but once you get the idea it is a easy fix
Remember: A guy taught me and I taught you, pass it along thats what we do.LOL
Hope it helped.
The Shop Dog
Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.