In order to replace the socket in one of my hi hat ceiling fixtures, I need to remove the housing from the ceiling. The fixture dates back to 1987 and the flange that sits against the ceiling is an integral part of the fixture itself. There are no spring clips holding the funnel shaped housing in place. Looking into the housing, you can see three cross shaped punch outs that seem to serve no purpose. The socket itself is attached with 2 bolts to a metal cup, that sits in the narrow back end of the housing. (The bolt heads are not visible since they are on top of the cup.)The metal cup has 2 springs that snap into holes in the housing. The cup can be pushed up a little, but not down. Pulling down on the flange just seems to bend it and I am reluctant to break open the ceiling. I'm out of ideas. Am I missing something? Can anybody help? Norm
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This is an indication of a failed connection. Somewhere. Since you probably do not know how the affected circuit was run, it's going to take some time - but it's not difficult work. But before we roll up our sleeves - first locate and RESET any Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) type outlet. If any fail to reset - replace it with another GFI outlet with the same electrical rating. Pay attention to which cables and wires that are connected LINE and LOAD terminals wires when removing and replacing! Don't forget to check outlets on the outside of the 5th wheel.
Circuits fail almost always at connections. Wires and cables in walls don't just "break" in the middle. We need to check connections in the bad circuit. First, plug lights in all the outlets. Turn the circuit breaker for the bad circuit from ON to OFF. Note which lights shut off. With the break OFF, check the outlets that WORKED.
We're looking for the point that power entered the outlet box, but due to a failed connection is unable to leave it and feed the first failed outlet. Check and tighten all screw terminals and wirenuts. Check both hot and neutral wires. Make sure no wires are loose, pull out or are burned (cut and strip back these wires and reconnect / wirenut). Try to power the circuit to see if you found the problem after each check - if not - repeat at the next outlet that worked until you find the problem. If you are still unable to get it working after checking the working outlets, repeat the process on each of the non-working outlets. If still unable to get it working, check ceiling fixtures as it is not uncommon to wire to the light fixture first and then feed down to outlets.
1. Did you remove a light fixture from the ceiling box?
2. Do you know which wires were attached to the light you removed?
3. Can you identify which cable is coming from the dimmer?
Once these questions are known, more can be deduced.
I had not been able to locate parts for these in my normal go-to sources, buttThere are several of these lights available on EBay. I'd suggest either replacing the entire fixture or using a lamp for a parts source if you have many.
Hi James, I'm an electrician and will try to help you out with this problem.
An AFCI combination breaker is a type that will open a circuit when either condition exists: (1) A sustained current (in amps) load greater than 80% of the breaker's rating is present for a predetermined length of time. Your 15 amp breaker should hold a 12 amp load 24 hours / day; but a 13 amp load may only be passed for several hours - a 15 amp load only a few minutes or a 17 amp load only a few seconds and (2) Whenever the internal circuitry of the breaker sees load disturbances that mimic an arcing short circuit as programmed by the manufacturer.
Since you have lowered the load on the circuit in question, it is probably not an overload condition, but rather a problem with the remaining items on the circuit or wiring in the home. I suspect that you did not remove the lamps from the fixtures and wonder if you you are using CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) in them. Some CFLs and regular fluorescent lamps can "look" like an arcing short (esspecially when fisrt turned on) and cause a false positive for this condition. Remove any / all florescent lamps (or leave the switches off). Also, make sure any motor loads are disconnected, too. The motors that have "brushes" (looks like little sparks inside) can have the arcing signature that the AFCI thinks is a problem. Once you've cleared all these items, try again.
If it still won't hold, you may have a bad AFCI breaker. You should not attempt replacement if you do not know what you're doing in the panel. This will be your lowest cost fix. If the problem still won't go away, you're going to need to spend some time (or money on an electrician) checking all the connections at each outlet, switch, fixture, junction box, etc. to find the source of the fault. In rare instances, the fault may be a result of supporting staples being driven to hard during construction of the building.
The GFCI test / reset operations have nothing to do with an AFCI tripping condition, as they work completely different from each other.
Hello there. I can definitely help you. Before we get our hands dirty however, let me begin by saying that replacing the fixture is often cheaper than repairing it. That said here is all you need to know to repair it:
hello, all you have to do is to get a new breaker with the same amperage or amp's example 15 amp's of the breaker that's blown and pop out the old one and put in your new one , in the future when working with electricity always manual trip the breaker before working for your safety and the safety of the equipment .good luck
Hi, Here is my clarification of the instructions for you. The photocell must be protected by at least a 10 amp circuit breaker. The photocell may be installed next to the light fixture. ( not the breaker). Good Luck, this should Fixya!