Question about Vivitar 285HV Flash

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285 not 285HV

I have a broken hotfoot / hotshoe mount on my 285. Who can supply parts and or repair it in Sydney, Australia? Multiple options are good! Thanks for your suggestions.

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Re: 285 not 285HV

You can make your own or repair the shoe.
Use Weld Bond, buy from auto store.
Buy plastic, then cut & stack & Weld Bond.

Posted on Feb 12, 2008

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1 Answer

Repair a broken hot shoe mount on the speedlight

Have to try tighten down the four screws holding the shoe?

Would you like me to fix it for you?

If it is just the Hotshoe Assy, then you can buy from me.
They come in two versions:

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Are you from USA?


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The hotshoe foot on my Vivitar DF-383 flash unit is broken. Where can get a replacement part?

Don't buy anything before you shop the bay and (don't put in a zip code) for another flash. Often a used flash is reasonably close to the price of a new part. Your flash may be worth the repair, I am not looking at it so I can't say.

If you want to get a part, and if the flash is a few years old, there will be broken models for sale everywhere. And has a forum for everything related to cameras. I often get parts sent to me free even though I am willing to pay for them. Someone will have the part you need.

Other than that you can call the maker and ask if they will send you a part free. I am amazed by how many companies are willing to send free parts on things that should not have broken. It never hurts to ask.

Best wishes.

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I have a Di622 Nissin Flash, the base is broken. The part that slides into the hot-shoe. Would like a quote on the fix.

i have a Di622 Nissin Flash, the base (hotshoe contact piece that slides in camera) is broke is there anywhere I can order the replacement piece?

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Broken hotshoe repiar problem

It's a known weak point on that model and is typical of ANY similar large, heavy flashgun which mounts via a hotshoe mount which was never designed for such loads.

Unfortunately, the most common type of break cannot be glued or repaired in any neat fashion, but if the wiring is intact a very rough looking but functional repair can be adapted by fastening external metal repair plates using epoxy resin and very short screws. The unit looks dreadful afterwards, and has zero resale value but it usually works and if done correctly the repair lasts the lifetime of the unit.

If you want a neat repair, then the only option is via the factory (often they just dispose of your broken one and send out another new unit). In the camera club which I belong to some members have found it's more cost-effective to sell the broken unit as spares or repairs on an auction website and to then put the funds towards purchase of a more suitable model (either a smaller, lighter, less vulnerable unit, or a proper off-camera hammerhead type unit like all traditional Metz models). One other member found that his credit card gave him accidental damage cover on purchases for up to ninety days (yours is brand new, so worth checking) and another found that her flashgun (not a Metz, but a similar bad design) was covered by her household contents accidental damage policy, but she had to pay the first £90 of the claim.

In case you're wondering, the "bad design" is an intentional compromise. It's simply preferable for the flashgun to break rather than for it to rip the top of your camera off. That's a major disadvantage with the repair option which I mentioned: further knocks simply mean that something more vital gets broken.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do, please take a moment to rate my answer.

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Hi Jim,
It runs about $47 to $60 for part & labor. If that's the hotshoe.
I repair them.

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I doubt it. Water damage usually is fatal, or very expensive.

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This link gives step-by-step instructions with pictures for replacing the shoe.

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Part # CY2-4165, order from Canon. Four screws and a plug in cable and that is it.

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Hello, after breaking mine this morning I was able to fix the flash so It can fire from the hotshoe.

Any automatic TTL features will still not work however atleast you will be able too fire in auto, and manual modes.

I simply opened the flash by taking off the hotshoe, and then swiveling the flash head 90 degrees to expose the four screws there. You need only remove the two screws from the front side of the unit.

Open the battery door and gently pull away the front case (Be careful there are several delicate ribbon cables that you do not want to snap. From here you can either unscrew all the ribon cables to free yourself room to solder or try and dodge them.

You should now be able to see the rear side of the PC sync socket. There is a blue wire that joins the outer edge of the socket - this is ground. Solder onto this point and join onto the top left circle of the PCB board of the hotshoe. (Opposite corner from where the ribbon cable attatches) There are copper circles exposed on the pcb for easy soldering.

Next, return to the rear of the PC sync socket and note the orange wire coming from the centre pin. Solder a wire to this point, and then down to the hotshoe PCB and to the circle that joins to the centre pin of the hotshoe. (Trace the circuit paths)

Sorry I did this about 30mins ago and I'm remembering this out of my head.


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